我與幕斯坦的馬兒 Horse Riding in Mustang (II)

67天:坐騎升級到LoManthang / Day 6-7: Major horse upgrade for Lo Manthang

Ghiling 告別大隊人馬,進行我的上幕斯坦12日遊――因爲外國人進上幕斯坦一天要50美金的稅費,所以我只申請了12天的許可證。

告別大隊人馬意味著沒有驢隊拖行李,沒有室友聊天,吃飯時不能在厨房撿自己喜歡的菜吃。

不過,慈悲怙主給了我一匹馬,我接下來的路程都不用換馬了。馬的藏文名字意思是黃色,“黃黃”和日前騎的那几匹馬真是不可同日而語。他的個頭比較大,坐在上面很平穩,簡直像是升級到奔馳(賓士)一樣。他頗有競爭性,帶我去Lo Manthang的人的坐騎比較小,黃黃似乎不太喜歡落在後面,往往自己小跑步跟在領路馬的身旁,不需要我操心讓它快慢,而且它自己會選比較好走的路走,不一定跟著前馬,選擇他覺得比較安全好走的路。他還有一點潔癖,有時在路上有小水流,別的馬踏著水就過去了,他一定要找個窄的地方跨過去,儘可能不弄濕馬蹄,很可愛。

I bid farewell to the group in Ghiling to continue my rest of the Uppper Mustang trip – since all foreigners are subject to US$50 / person / day charge for entering Upper Mustang, I only applied for a permit of 12 days.

Leaving the group means that I have to carry my own luggage (which is a lot), don’t have a roommate to chat anymore, and can’t only eat my fav veggies in the kitchen at meal time.

However, the extremely kind guardian gave me a horse for the rest of the trip and it turned out to be such a marvelous horse! His name is Yellow (in Tibetan) , much bigger than all the horses I rode in the previous days and it feels so stable to sit on it  “wow, this is like Mercedez among horses!” This thought kept coming to my mind throughout the day.

Yellow is also very cautious by nature. He usually picked a path which seems safer and smoother. Today, he also seems competitive as he didn’t want to follow behind the leading horse which is smaller than him, which makes my job easier as he would follow the other almost side-by-side by himself.

 

89天:金銀兩馬遊 / Day 8-9: A couple of horses in gold and silver

Lo的導游巴布騎了一匹新買的灰色馬,名字叫藍藍,黃黃很喜歡藍藍,一反日前不願屈居馬後的習性,乖乖跟在藍藍後面,連放他們在草地上吃草時,他們都形影不離。

黃黃是橙黃色毛加米白色馬鬃,藍藍是銀白色毛加藍黑色馬鬃,他們走在一起特別好看。

可惜藍藍在尼阜可能吃壊了,也可能是剛從西藏過來,水土不服,回去病了一天。巴布說他哥哥插了根針在藍藍鼻子裏,放出一些黑血後,它才好些,所以我們去Luri的時候,他只好換馬。

My guide from Lo Manthang, Babu, took a new horse they bought just days ago from Tibet, which is grey but they name it Blue. Yellow likes Blue and follows him nicely. They are always together even when freely wandering on the grassland to feed themselves.

金銀雙寳(黃黃& 藍藍) - They are gold and silver to me 🙂

10天:Lo ManthangLuri最恐怖的路 / Day 10: The most dangerous road

LoDhee有段路只有一隻脚掌寬,整面山壁都是隨時滾動的小石子--就是那種你踩一脚,人跟脚一起隨著小石子向下滑的路,問題是下面是幾百公尺山谷,下去就算活著也上不來了。我自己走的話,用四肢爬都不敢過去,但是因爲這幾天培養出對黃黃的信任,加上巴布跟他的馬走在前面,眼不眨的就騎着黃黃過去,只可惜那時把相機放在背包裏。

走到一半,前面巴布傳來短短續續的話:“現在路比較好了。以前……我哥哥…..掉了下去……沒有上來……”。嗚呼哀哉,之後休息時趕緊問,不是哥哥們都好好的嗎?原來是一位哥哥的岳父的馬走這段路時,不慎摔了下去,就此告別這世界――還好他沒在我們走這路之前告訴我這故事,不然我極度懷疑我會有勇氣走,原來馬兒也不是那麽牢靠的。

話說回來,很能理解爲什麽有人不惜重金買馬。真的是把自己的身家性命全交給了坐騎,很多時候,山路險峻時,確實是信任馬比信任自己多。

There is one section of road with width of only one feet’s on a vertical slope of small sliding stones – actually various places along the road were blocked by stones sliding from higher places. If Babu asked me to walk, I definitely would have said no way. But he just went ahead with his horse. At that moment, I realized how much I trust Yellow – even more than I trust myself.

沒有真正險路的照片,反正就是比這陡至少20度,比這窄就是了~This is a normal path, the bad one is 20 degree steeper than this…

1112天:黃黃不把我放在眼裏 / Day 11-12: Yellow becomes lazy and uncontrollable

今天從DheeLo Ghegar,巴布沒走過這段路,加上我們想繞過水大的地方,我們兜了個圈子,3小時的路走了5個小時。我是又累又餓,黃黃不知道是真的累還是作怪,從巴布換馬後它就不甚合作,不是走的很慢,再不然就是不跟前馬去走奇怪的路上,昨天還有自己跑囬頭的記錄。今天更是不把我放在眼裏,我們迷路途中,沿路走走停停吃花吃草,還差點跑到人家田裏嚼青稞,我沒有鞭子,只能跟它比腕力,拉著馬繮不方便它低頭吃,我們後來折衷了些,它咬上一叢花草後往前邊走邊吃……所以我們有一段路走的巨慢。

12天,從Lo GhegarGami的短短路上,發現雖然沒有鞭子,用馬繮虛晃出聲響能够讓黃黃稍微聽話往前跑,只是不知道這伎倆能騙它多久。

Today we got a bit lost so it took us 5 hours to go from Dhee to Lo Ghegar. We passed a village where we wanted to ask for directions but apparently everyone left for Lo Ghegar already for the initiation. We just wondered in the fields and eventually found the way.

On the way, I was really tired and hungry, probably same for Yellow. He started stopping here and there to grab some grass/flowers to eat, which made our progress even slower. I didn’t have a whip so there was little I can do.

我急著去蓮師廟見仁波切,黃黃卻沿路吃了起來 / I wanted to rush to see the monastery built by Padmasambhava while Yellow was taking his time munching along the way

迷路時卻見到了一家子的鹿 / A family of deers came to greet us while we were lost 

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13天:9個小時,一天內回到Kagbeni / Day 13: 9 hours ride back to Kagbeni within one day

本來的計劃是從GhamiSamar,第二天再從SamarJomsom,因爲大家都說不是本地人,到Lo Manthang分三天走比較輕鬆。

但是帶我回Jomsom的人很厲害,他跟在黃黃後面打了幾次後,黃黃立馬知道不好唬弄他,所以走的很賣力。原來我和巴布之前對它太好了,它爬個山,走十步停一停,我們都任它自己調整氣息,今天發現原來它有能力一口氣爬上幾百公尺垂直的山坡。

另一匹馬少見的比黃黃還高大,名字就叫大大。大大走的巨快,所以黃黃即使賣力,還是通常跟不上,碰到下坡路,我就儘量下來自己走,讓它休息。

早上八九點磨磨蹭蹭的離開Ghami,中間只在Shangmochen停下喝了杯茶,到一點多就到Samar了,撞見了從Kagbeni來的室友爸爸(黃黃的主人),他有公事回去Jomsom一趟,所以我在Lo Gehgar時才能臨時在我室友那裏的空牀過了一晚,沒想到中飯時在漫漫長路上能再次碰到。

吃完中飯,我們想說多走一點路,就走到下一個村莊,到了那裏,又雄心大發的想直接趕到Kagbeni,住的比較好,而且聼室友爸爸說今天水比較小,過河容易些。就趕呀趕的,看到日落西山很著急,不過六點時終於看到Kag

渡河回去的路上,黃黃涉水都還好,只是從河水裏爬上馬道的地方很陡,大概一米五的高度,大大都沒法一次上去,黃黃一躍到土陘上後也跪了下來,四肢掙扎著,我想它戴著我的行李和我,一定太重了上不去,我又很怕它受傷,就跳下馬來,沒想到力量不够,跳不到旁邊,還是摔在土陘裏,眼看黃黃也墜下來,很怕它會踩到我,那肯定要進醫院了,還好,它後脚奮力一登時沒踩到我,自己終於爬了上去,我也被同行人拽起,他嚇壞了,一直問我有沒有受傷,我倒是比較擔心馬有沒有受傷。萬幸,人馬都毫髮無缺。

回到Kag,發現掉了一隻耳環,戴了一年半了,有點心疼。

The original plan was to go from Ghami to Samar, stay one night at Samar, then go to Jomsom. However, TL, who was in charge of brining me back to Jomsom, was very good at dealing with Yellow. He soon realized that Yellow was playing lazy so he stayed behind us in the beginning of the trip and gave Yellow a few whips. Ever since, Yellow was making a lot of effort to catch up with TL’s giant horse.

Though we left Ghami quite late in the morning, we reached Samar at about 1pm, running into Yellow’s owner on his way from Jomsom to Ghami. After having lunch, we decided to go to the next village for the night, and once we reached that village, we again set the goal to reach Kagbeni. So except for once we stopped for the horses to get some water, we went all the way to Kagbeni before the sunset.

When we crossed the water this time, I almost got myself into trouble again. The water was bigger than the time when we left. Yellow was doing ok passing  the water. The problem occurred when he needed to lifted himself off the water back to the track. The platform was about 1.5 meter high with an almost vertical tiny and winding track, as wide as his body. Even the giant horse before us didn’t make it with one jump. When Yellow tried, he slided on half way with his forelegs kneeled down. I was afraid that he might hurt himself.  Thinking that my luggage plus myself was too much a burden for him, I decided to jump off him. Not skilled enough, I didn’t land at the side, but dropped back to the pit-like track while Yellow kept sliding. Fortunately, his final last kick helping him up the platform missed me. Otherwise, I don’t think any part of my body can sustain his kick.

When we were in Kag, I realized that one earring was missing. Must have lost it somewhere along the way. A bit sad because I had had that pair on for over a year now.

大大與黃黃走了一天後喝水 / Giant & Yellow having water after one full day of walk

14天:車道難行 / Day 14: Bidding farewell to Yellow

今天只是從KagbeniJomsom,仁波切他們之前騎馬只要半個小時,我想我一個小時差不多,路也好走,很掉以輕心的上路了。一開始看到很多外國徒步游客還覺得很好玩,後來發現其實這路有跟之前不同的挑戰。

首先,因爲這段路上人多,所以第一次有“錯車“的經驗。在窄道上要彼此先把馬停下,找到一處能容二馬過的地方再交會,但是馬兒有時過去了,後面人的腿或行李還會打架,這時馬兒不會知道,還是各走各的硬是往前走,外側那個人馬就很危險。

接著,因爲這是通車路段,時不時會有吉普車過去。第一次還好,領路人把大大停在路外側,我把黃黃停在大大後面,車子過去了;第二次,車子過去時,黃黃突然抓狂,轉身想跟著車子跑。之後,每當有車子來,我們都會示意車子慢下來,並且自己儘量走到遠離車子的路上。現代都市裏人車分道,幕斯坦以後通車的話可能需要馬、車分道。

走了一個小時回到Jomsom,終於結束我的騎馬遊。很捨不得黃黃。

This is a very short trip: from Kagbeni to Jomsom. By car or riding fast, it only takes half an hour. For me it took more than an hour.

The road condition is superb compared to what I had been through. However, there was so much traffic on this route, which means we sometimes had horses from different directions on a road which was only spacious enough for one horse to pass at a time. Plus, there were jeeps coming and going on the main part of the road and Yellow wasn’t all that stable when getting near a motor vehicle. Once he literally wanted to chase after a jeep as if he wanted to bite the car.

They are building a  road from Kagbeni to Lo Manthang. When the road is finished, it’s likely going to be challenge for the horses as they can’t run freely on the road anymore.

So this ends all my days with Mustang horses. They are such beautiful beings.

Kagbeni附近的河段/ Water near Kagbeni (Kali Gandaki River)

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a simple wandering being on the less beaten tracks in samsara

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