Lower Mustang 下幕斯唐 2 – Kagbeni, Tiri

Kagbeni (2840m)

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Kagbeni(卡貝尼)是外國旅客進入上幕斯坦之前的最後一個點,在Jomsom北方,處於兩河交流處,一條是南北向的有名的Kali Gandaki(河裏可以撿到海洋生物化石的),一條是東西向、從東邊的Muktinath流下來滙入Kali Gandaki的河。據說,Kag在藏文的意思就是河流交會處,beni是尼泊爾文的同意字,加在一起就變成這裏的地名,不過一般藏族好像真的只說Kag。可能是我在這裏前後待了一周的時間,覺得Kagbeni就像是在下幕斯唐的家,這裏依山傍水,也沒幾戶人家(估計百戶吧,很多老房子是沒住人的,所以實在不好說),在鎮上走個幾天,很快就認識些熟面孔。住的地方在幕斯唐算是很好的,吃的也很贊,沒事就在外面走來走去,總是能有新鮮地方、新鮮事。我也不是唯一喜愛這裏的人,碰到一對美國來的夫妻,說他們每年都來這裏住個幾星期,到處走走--他們那個走是真的很能走,有一天傍晚碰到他們,他們走到Marpha又走回來,一天走了20公里。Kagbeni is the last settlement before entering into Upper Mustang. It’s in the north of Jomsom, at the junction of two rivers: Kali Gandaki flowing towards the sourth as the main river and another smaller one coming from Muktinath at the east. I was told that “Kag” means confluence in Tibetan and “beni” is the Nepalese word for confluence, so Kagbeni is like adding two words together.This is the coziest place to stay in Lower Mustang. Here you can have great view of snow capped mountain and the rivers, comfortable and very inexpensive guesthouses to stay, food is good, daily necessity can be purchased without a problem (though Jomsom is the better place for hiking gear), Internet availability (though I have never tried), extremely friendly and helpful people, very convenient location to walk around (to villages in the Muktinath valley, to Jomsom). I met an American couple who come here for weeks every year and one day they walked all the way to Marpha!090621 Kagbeni 041 090617 Kagbeni 001 090614 Kagbeni 110 I had such a great time here that my travel journal was only kept for two days then laziness took over. Therefore now after three months of the trip, I am still struggling to introduce this great place. Anyway, these are from my 1st day in Kagbeni:

頭兩天來時,還認真寫了日誌,後來就完全流於放逸懈怠中,所以才會現在這麽痛苦,去了三個月之後還沒有辦法好好介紹幕斯唐:

”手機信號不是很穩定,昨天通電話沒問題,今早完全沒有信號。廟裏還得派人來旅館叫我吃早餐。早上想到河對面的山頂上,過了個吊橋,一開始很害怕,後來就只覺得好玩,真的像寂天菩薩說的,心能够被訓練習於一切事。山路難行,基本上就是在一堆小石子中走出一條剛夠放上兩隻脚的路,走不好就可能一路隨著小石子滑到河底,現在雖然還不到雨季,但是水已經高到有兩個人騎馬過河時水淹到馬身體的一半,想想還是不敢冒險,遠眺一下Tiri就折回了。下午跟仁波切請教一些問題,收拾經書時包的實在太醜了,仁波切就拿去幫我弄,果然好很多。他們往往諸多方面很隨意,吃住什麽的都是落差極大,但是只要有關法的細節都很注意,一絲不苟。090615 Kagbeni 020  090615 Kagbeni 013Mobile signal is not stable here. Yesterday it was ok, while this morning no signal at all…There’s a suspension bridge to cross Kali Gandaki River. Initially I was quite afraid of walking on it, but after few minutes just found the fun of it. As Shantideva said, you can literally train your mind to get accustomed to anything. The path to go up the mountain overlooking Kagbeni and Muktinath Valley is however too difficult for me. It’s like walking on non-stop sliding pebbles. As the water is already quite high (saw two horsemen crossing the river with half of the horses’ body in the water) , I gave up the attempt climb.  June is the harvest season for Kag (they will have another harvest in the end of summer). Walking in the field of gold, looking at the snow-capped mountains, I can still remember my first sight of Kagbeni—was truely amazed by its beauty and thought maybe this is the Shangri-la!
6月時分正好是當地采收作物的時候,走在金黃色田地中,看著屹立不搖的雪山,想到車子開過來時心裏一直讚嘆這才是香格里拉啊。 090620 To Kagbeni 047  Dinner is done by two great cooks. Vegetarian noodles with pretty coriander flower sprinkles! and I love the mustard (“Sag” in the local language) here, it’s like the only vegie I live by. 晚餐是加德滿都廟裏最好的厨師煮的,好吃的素面上撒了紫色小花的香菜,還沒吃就覺得很幸福。090620 To Kagbeni 072

It’s windy here between 11am to 5 pm. Clouds her and there never stop changing so you get a unique view whenever looking at the mountains. 山區風大,固定11點到傍晚5點間狂風大作,一會兒這邊一朵雲,一會兒那邊一朵雲,任何時候看雪山都是獨特的景象。
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1. Farming works with buffalo? 仍然用牛犁翻土耕地 // 2. Collecting grains 打糓機 // 3. Picking in the field 拾穗
090614 Kagbeni 057 090614 Kagbeni 064 090614 Kagbeni 062Practical info: Plenty of decent places to stay. My recommendation are: 1) Asia Trekking House: rooms with excellent views facing Dhaulagiri and the fields plus the most delicious vegie momos; 2) Annapurna II: The new one offers brand new rooms; 3) something Red House: more traditional deco with owner’s private collection incl. a huge buddha statue said to be left by Khampa (Tibetan people from Kham area) when they fled China to here. Also, if you are going to Upper Mustang, you need to register in the tourist office here upon departure and return.

住的地方:很多,略舉幾家。1) Asia Trekking House-藏族開的,因爲不是旺季,又有當地人帶去,所以以一晚300盧比的價格入住。有衛生間與熱水的雙人房,感覺很像住進瑞士小木屋,窗口看出去就是Dhaulagiri雪山,其下是層層綠色山巒,山下是金黃色田地與河谷,美的像是在看一幅畫一般。這家的素饃饃也是超好吃的。2)Annapurna II -這家新的,房間很好。3) xxx Red House? 這家不太確定名字,是很有風味的小旅館,有些老外每次來都住這裏。裏面還有一個房間堆放了店主各處收來的文物,特別是一尊大佛,說是當年康巴人流亡於此時帶來的。我看著眼淚都快掉出來,逃命都來不及的時候,馬也不好走的路,是怎麼樣帶著這個大佛翻越喜馬拉雅山?!(是的,我的康巴情結又出現了)通行登記:離開Kagbeni往上幕斯唐時要在警察局旁邊的旅遊辦公室登記,回來時也要登記,這樣他們才確定你沒有超出許可證的日期。登記處有很多頗實用的此地區觀光旅遊信息。

White House Trekking at Kagbeni 小白屋步道

Across the Kali Gandali river from Kabeni, the so-called Golden Hill route leads to a small white house on top of the mountain (3510m). It took me almost 3 hours to go up and 70min to descend, so for experienced trekker I imagine it’s probably only one and half hour walk each way. It’s recommended to do this in the early morning as it gets windy since 11am onwards until 6pm in this area. Even just half way on the path, you can see all the snow capped peaks from Nigiri in the left to Dauhgiri to the right, and the overview of Kagbeni and the Muktinath valley. 這是我亂起的名字,因爲終點是山頂的小白屋(3510米),可以看到連綿雪山、Kagbeni全景和到Muktinath河谷。路不難走,只是過橋後要上到步道的路段壞了,抓了一個放羊的問怎麽上去,這裏人都很好,他也不知道,但是帶著我找了一條路上去(基本上就是山民憑著經驗往走上)。他看我太不行了,明明他走前面,我跟着走都可以走錯,還得回頭來拉我回去,最後拉著我走了快半個小時,送我到步道上才離去。我們上到一半時,我才發現原來好心人不是放羊的,只是路人甲,因爲我們兩個往上走,所有的羊羣都跟著我們往上跑,害得河谷裏放羊的得爬上來趕羊下去,那個放羊的必須爬的路又比我們走的險多了,畢竟是兩條腿的在陡峭山坡上要趕四條腿的,生活大不易~

所以我就着照片山上右邊微微可見的山路,從2800米的卡貝尼直直爬了近千米,到了山頂上累得只想滾下去。水也喝完了,又很餓,但是風又開始大了,不下去也不行,就直奔(上山三小時下山70分鐘嘿嘿)廟裏的厨房祭我的五臟廟。
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Puja 法會

Mustang people’s devotion is really amazing. I sometimes look at them and think people like myself brought up by modern education may never develop that kind of firm, unquestioning devotion. Those capable ones would come all the way to Jomsom to welcome and accompany Rinpoches back to their town, by horse, by mortorbike, or very few by car.  The rest just all dressed up, lined up along the way near the town, with flowers in hand and offerings in front of the hourses, singing etc.  In the ceremonies, they not only offers a lot of stuff to the Gurus but also 50-100 Rupees to every single monk/nun (i.e. at least a hundred). For the local income level (300-500 charge for one hotel room and not everyone has a hotel, and hotel only has business for a few months a year), that is really a lot! Even small kids can sit still for a long time in the initiation! 

初見幕斯唐人的虔誠,真的是很了不起。從迎接仁波切開始,是全村出動,能騎馬、騎車(一般人沒有車的,機車倒是有,插上漂亮的旗幟)的更是一早到Jomsom去。然後灌頂時候的供養布施,除了供養灌頂的仁波切(很好玩,除了錢財外,還有一袋袋的穀物實物,像是全家家當包得美美的搬來一樣),還會供養所有在場的僧衆,附近各地的出家衆會聚集來此,像Tiri山上的尼師就來了,當地人家都是每位出家人五十、一百的給,這樣大大小小算起來有百來人吧,一下就去了萬把元,就當地旅館一天才三、五百元盧比的收入來說,真的是很令人尊敬。

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There is also a special Four King Puja. In the end of the puja, local guys would bring out four tormas with cute 100 lights to the four directions of the settlement as offerings to the four kings, then another round of ritual objects to place in another four locations at the border of the settlement together wiith fire crackers, shouting and waving swords as if they were chasing something away. When they came back to the monastery, they (incl. myself) would be showered with water and flour when entering the gate. You can imagine the mess…flour plus water! 還有一項很特別的“四王”法會,是修法向所在地四方祈求太平的。有四個食子會被置放於鎮子的四方邊境,食子像是船,上面有百盞小燈火;然後還有四樣物品會拿到另外四個邊界地方,去的人一路放鞭炮、叫囂、揮舞刀劍,安放好物品後,再揮動武器吆喝一陣,再回到廟裏進大門時,廟裏的人會洒水和麵粉之類的,估計是去障。在外面跑來跑去的都是當地盛裝的男子,非常熱鬧。聽說這個四王法會,每年幕斯唐的國王也都會舉辦一次。

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School performance 才藝表演

The Kagbeni school hosted a performance event for Gyana Vajra Rinpoche, including singing, dancing, and comedy by the local students. Kids here are very talented, from an amazing hot dance by a 6-years-old girl, Tibetan folk dance, Nepalese dance to hip-hop dance. It’s especially impressive when you think of all these come from a place with maybe only 1000 inhabitants!某晚,當地學校辦了場才藝表演給來訪的智慧金剛仁波切。這裏的人都很有才,才一千人的小地方,有六歲小孩勁舞、藏族舞蹈、尼泊爾舞蹈、hip-hop、還有喜劇。
  

Tiri (Tingri)

Tiri is about 1-2 km to the north of Kagbeni on the other side of Kali Gandaki. It’s like a tiny oasis in the arid valley, with only 12 households and cows, horses, donkeys, mules, barley, cute little Mustang apples, apricots, vegies…a miniature of what you can find in Mustang. August would be the best seasons for the fruits.
Tiri(提里)在卡貝尼北方一、二公里處的河對岸。是一個小綠洲,總共就12戶人家,有牛、馬、驢子、騾子,種青稞、蘋果、桃子、蔬菜等等,夏天八月份時什麽都有。
090616 Tingri 003 090616 Tingri 029 090616 Tingri 063The day we went there, a family was having a Vairocana puja for their mother passing away last year. Their relatives from neighboring villages up to Muktinath and neighbors all came to help. A house full of people were non-stop busy preparing food for the monks, for the participants, and also 1000 gifts for friends and relatives of the family – Since there are only 12 families here, I assume their distribution coverage must span across all Mustang area and possibly beyond. So the whole morning all the guys were making these “gifts” on the rooftop while all the ladies were cooking lunch. After lunch, it was again the time to prepare the food – momo this time. So you see minimum a dozen of people making momo at any given time for a whole two hours. And all I have to do here is non-stop eating and drinking.去的那天是因爲有一戶人家去年女主人去世了,正在做一年的法會,請了薩迦派的仁波切和多位堪布修大日如來渡亡法。這裏的人都家族龐大,親友衆多,所以一家做法會,各地親友都會來幫忙(有一對姐妹花是從Muktinath來的),從早上開始歡迎仁波切等,供養早餐(瑪莎拉馬鈴薯、面餅、茶…),接著是早茶,然後有中飯,下午茶,然後修完法還有饃饃(蒸餃)。還要準備薈供品,是用糌粑類做的糕點,主人計劃做上1千份,分送各戶人家,鑒于這裏只有12戶人家,Kagbeni也了不起100戶,所以他們的親朋好友大概遍布上下幕斯坦;基本上上午男性親友都在屋頂做這個,女性親友都在樓下準備中飯。包餃子時也很好玩,隨時都有12個以上的人在包,這樣也包了快兩個小時,很費功。混在這裏就是沒停地吃與喝。 090616 Tingri 035 090616 Tingri 037 090616 Tingri 089 090616 Tingri 049So I actually skipped the breakfast – some sort of masala potato. But shortly after, someone brought me a bowl of noodles, and tea, and the most delicious Tibetan deep fried dessert I have ever tried. Then lunch came – a full Tali with all my fav vegies. Then Indian style dessert, fruits…After my short walk, momo came with soup and delicious dipping. Thinking back, thank god that I sometimes skipped breaky and dinner in Mustang, otherwise, I’d have had more kilo to shed now.先吃了一碗泡麵吧,還有全世界我吃過最好吃的炸麻花類的餅兒,配上茶;然後吃了一大盤飯菜,還有甜點,水果等;出去逛逛回來就是蒸餃(饃饃)、熱湯,饃饃的霑醬好像打了腰果進去,也是一級棒!還好接下來的日子我晚餐都盡量少吃,不然在幕斯唐會肥死~090616 Tingri 034090616 Tingri 070090616 Tingri 057090616 Tingri 091Right beside the village, there’s a Nyinmapa Monastery on the hill of about 100m high. It’s said to have 860 years of history though most of the buildings are new. The old Gompa was burnt down before and even the old one nowadays is relatively new, however, they kept some nice stone carving buddha images from the old Gompa. There are only two nuns looking after the place and kindly offered me some tea.

村子旁邊100米高的山頭上有個寜瑪的寺廟,號稱有860年的歷史,門口有些石板雕刻彩繪看來真的是歷史久遠,看守的尼師說是以前失火後從地下拯救出來的。這裏就兩位尼師在看管,很熱情的請我喝茶。
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Down the ani gompa, along the small stream and water pipes up in the valley, there are two caves about 200m high on the cliff, which should be used as meditatiion caves in the old days with some stone structure half covering the entrance. Unfortunately the road to the cave is damaged so I only made it to the half way , nevertheless, the veiw was great already. I also encountered a wolf in the valley, but it ran away quickly. Then further up is a small waterfall which is likely the main water source for Tiri. In Mustang, you drink mineral water and bath in mineral water :-)走下尼師廟,再沿著小水流和村民的供水管往上走,右手邊200米高處有2個洞穴,還有一個用石板稍微搭建的前人的閉關房,但是現在路已經被落石淹沒了,我試了一會兒,爬到一半,沒有堅持下去。不過坐在半山風景就很好,前人閉關的地方遠眺應該很讚。在這個無人山谷,見到了一匹狼,不過它沒有很喜歡我,飛快地跑掉了。再溯小水流往上,最後會看到一個小瀑布,應該就是村民的水源,來自高山雪水。在幕斯唐,喝的是礦泉水,洗的也是礦泉水。
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It’s the first time I tried riding horse. Someone cautiously held my horse on the mountain path so we ended up even more slowly than those walking on foot. In the afternoon we went back from the riverbed and they just let my horse follow the horse in front so some small progress for my horse riding learning.

今天試著騎馬。早上去時走山路有人牽著,走的比走路的人還慢。下午回時走河谷,跟著前面一匹馬,堅持不要人牽,有點進步,至少比走山路的人快些,涉水也很好玩。(說這話是六月時,只是踩踩小水,真正過河是走橋,後來水大了真的要騎馬過河就不好玩了)090616 Tingri-Kagbeni 002

Click for more pictures of Kagbeni 更多相片點入http://cid-12c681d04f03de08.skydrive.live.com/embedphoto.aspx/Nepal%e5%b0%bc%e6%b3%8a%e5%b0%94/090614Kagbeni003.jpg(Nepal photo album @bellachao.spaces.live.com)

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