Food in Madrid 吃在馬德里(西班牙)

Non-stop drinking in Madrid / 沒停地在喝酒

Long time no drinks, and the result is a bit drunk throughout the whole day in the first couple of days in Madrid. The dishes here are a bit salty, plus we are in the drinking mode, so we drink to celebrate the reunion, then eat, then drink more to dilute the salty and oily taste of local food, then eat more to balance the alcohol, then drink, then eat, then go home to let the drowsy state pass, then go out walking around and quickly feeling thirsty again, then start another drinking cycle…

太久沒喝酒,剛到馬德里的頭幾天,每餐都是一喝就微醉,感覺好像一直很墮落的在醺醺然的狀態。誰叫這裏的調酒很欺騙人的容易入口,菜又鹹到不喝酒不行呢?!出門走走,上坡下坡的,沒多久就得停下來喝點東西,喝了就得配上吃的,吃的鹹就喝的更多,然後就只能回家暈暈地躺著…然後再出門走幾步,沒多久又開始吃喝暈醺睡…

Sangria: how can you avoid Sangria in Spain? So fruity and fresh that it’s easy to forget that it’s an alcoholic drink; not to mention that you are always tempted to get a jar instead of just a glass.
西班牙經典的水果類調酒,很適合配油炸海鮮食物。
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Red wine: Personally I prefer Spanish red wine to white wine. Some of them can be very sweet though. Rioja is probably a safe bet. 
西班牙的紅酒不錯,不過有的會太甜,不是那麽喜歡,白酒一般也沒有德國的好喝。Rioja是很商業化的區域,但是那裏的紅酒的確各方面都有一定的水準。

Tinto De Verano (Red Wine of Summer): Another light (& deceiving) drink based on red wine: 50% of red wine + 50% of lemo/lime soda, i.e. actually pretty popular way to drink wine in mainland China. I wonder who started this fashion first. Maybe Sprite’s marketing staff?
“夏酒”是另一種普遍的紅酒類調酒,就是一半紅酒,加上一半檸檬汽水。這不就是在中國內地城市常見的喝法嗎?!
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Licor de Hierbas: a Spanish digestive herb liquor, really, it’s the worst digestive shot I have ever had. It’s burning all the way through the throat, with a taste not so much of herb but reminding me of the coughing syrup for kids. Nevertheless, people living in Germany seem to appreciate it. So this is probably again my personal detest. 
西班牙的消化酒。就是吃飽飽時,灌一杯,一路燒下去,把吃的過多的食物給燒掉…不過,還真是有夠難喝。法國和德國的都會有比較重的藥草味,說的直白些,通常是以八角(茴香)味為主,但是這個西班牙的沒有什麽藥草味,就是一股辛辣,加上咳嗽藥水的味道,超級不對我的胃口,可是德國人好像還覺得不錯。
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Spanish ham: this is something you see everywhere. They even have a chain restaurant called Museo de Jamon (Museum of Ham). It is very delicious to have croissant with a slice of dry ham and goat cheese.
西班牙的火腿出名,滿街都是。火腿一般是風乾的,有點鹹,薄薄一片配上當地的羊奶起司和可頌麵包,就是讓人相當滿足的一餐了。
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This is from Jane’s housewarming party. I have to say that I’d rather not see the whole leg. This makes me think of the poor creature which had to die because of we meat eating lovers.
這是友人家裡的,一隻要幾百歐元吧。不過看到整隻腿後,實在有點吃不下去。可憐的豬兒。
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Boiled ham: this type is less salty than the dry one. Therefore, great to have it as tapas to accompany drinks.
還有一種水煮的火腿比較沒有那麽鹹,切片熱過後,加點橄欖油和紅椒粉,下酒不錯。
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Churizo:the Spanish sausage is also pretty good. I especially like the spicy ones. Unfortunately, they are usually quite salty. And the way they prepare it in the restaurant (i.e. cooking within a pot of olive oil) is as if olive oil were not counted as a type of oil. Therefore, I prefer to prepare it myself – just boiling with water or white wine. Beer is too strong for cooking Churizo.
西班牙香腸也不錯吃,喜歡豬血糕的應該也會喜歡他們的血腸。辣的香腸比較好吃,不過一般比較鹹。有一次我們喝酒時,吃到了新鮮的、不鹹的香腸,驚為天物,J還一直追著bartender 問說能不能買個一兩公斤回去。但是,除了那一次之外,其它的都偏鹹,而且煮法超恐怖的,就是浸在一堆橄欖油裏。還是買新鮮的回家自己煮比較好。
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Suckling pig: Another famous delicacy. The photos were taken in “the oldest restaurant in the world” (Guiness World Records), dated back to the 18th century. Yet after seeing all those baby pigs’ bodies in the kitchen (check out the shelves behind the cook), I lost the appetite to try them. Om mani padme hum.
告別印尼美娜多的烤乳豬後,沒想到很快就在西班牙再次見到烤乳豬。而且很不幸的,這次不只一隻,在廚師身後墻上的架子上,一排排的有上百隻吧。可憐的小豬,只能幫它們多唸幾聲”瑪尼“,祈禱它們已經投胎到比較好的地方。這家餐廳是金氏世界記錄上,最老的餐廳,想來人們從十八世紀以來,對於烤乳豬的喜愛是歷久不衰。
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Lunch Menu at Hotel Reina Victoria: Lunch menu is a super economical choice for having good food in Madrid. I had this 3 courses menu at Hotel ME Reina Victoria for only 16 Euro which also includes a glass of wine and some breads. Compared to a croissant pricing at 2 Euro in a regular cafe, this is super value for money. (It’s still a puzzle to me why food is so expensive in Madrid.) I took Salmon Roll Stuffed with Cream Cheese and salad as starter,  Grilled Tuna with Seasame and Orange in Carrot Sauce as the main course, Soup of Cookies and Chocolate Ice Cream as dessert. What is great with these hotels is that they use good materials, so even the tomato is so tasty. And the cook maintains certain standard even for cheap lunch menu so the tuna is really melting in your mouth.
馬德里的食物不知為何,比德國貴上許多。早上咖啡店的一個可頌麵包都可以賣到2歐元(德國1歐元都用不到),這裏人的收入又不是很高,衣服也比德國、法國便宜(像是Zara、Mango之類的,在歐洲常常都是法國德國一個價錢,西班牙意大利又是便宜一點的另一個價錢),不知道食物是在貴什麽。
午間的套餐相對來講就是非常划算的選擇。像我吃的這個套餐,才16歐元,有三道菜,加一杯酒和麵包;朋友說這個旅館晚上來喝杯酒都是十幾歐元的價錢。星級飯店的好處就是再怎麼特價,食材、烹調都還是有一定的水準,沙拉裏每一樣蔬菜的味道都很足,烤鮪魚更是入口即化。 還有酸酸甜甜的橘子丁…讚!
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Palmera: One day we came across this pastry shop after a long walk. Seeing this Palmera as big as a basketball brought so much happiness, like a little girl seeing a gigantic lollypop, not to mention that it tastes heavenly as well – crispy, sweet, and light as thin air.
這是西班牙常見的甜點。有一天走的很累時看到這個,大的跟籃球一樣,拿在手上就很快樂。甜甜、酥酥的,碰的大力些就片片落下,吃在嘴裡又一下就不見了,真是很夢幻的甜點,而且只有現做的才會這麼好吃。這是在西班牙才有的、獨一無二的體驗。
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Seafood:We went to the so-called best paella place in Madrid, but I have to say it’s really hard to swallow. I think the paella I bought in Fontainebleau’s weekend market is much better than this. Yet the grilled prawns were pretty good. Because I like the prawns so much, we went to the supermarket to buy some more to eat at home. The ones sold at Carrefour are cooked already, we warmed it up in the boiled water, and add some more flavors with heated olive oil and chopped basil. It’s super delicious, and much much cheaper than dining out.
據說西班牙最好的海鮮都在馬德里,雖然這是一個內陸城市。我們去城內最好的西班牙海鮮飯餐廳吃那個著名的Paella,實話實說,這是我吃過最差的Paella了,海鮮很少,半生不熟的飯裏(這是歐洲常見的煮法)還有一股鹼的味道。還好前菜弄了幾隻蝦子來吃,算是彌補了一下;蝦肉非常的鮮甜有彈性。兩天後,我們在超市買了些蝦子回家吃,真的是很好吃,又方便又便宜,下次我來馬德里,絕對不花錢出去吃晚餐了。家樂福的蝦子是煮好的,沒有冰凍過,拿回家滾水裏撈一下,加熱兼去掉點鹹味,再淋上些九層塔爆香後的油就是一餐了。當然,少不得的是要弄點酒來配著吃。人生要糜爛於口腹之慾,真的是可以陷落的很快。
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Octopus is another popular local dish. They somehow manage to cook it really soft and tender. Seasoning wise, not that creative though, just more olive oil and paprika, with some potato slices to eat along with.  Nevertheless, I much prefer Kai’s cooking, although also based on a Spanish recipe but with garlic, onion, chili pepper and laurel leaves for seasoning. 
西班牙人也愛吃章魚,他們是把章魚煮到軟軟的,像是豬肚的口感來吃。比較過後,覺得還是朋友煮的(第二張照片)比較讃,因為香料用的比較多,有洋蔥、蒜、辣椒粉、月桂葉。馬德里的東西好像永遠都是一個味道:橄欖油+紅椒粉+鹽,真是敗給他們了。

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Angula: I saw this in the supermarket’s freezer and thought it’s cuttlefish, but they are actually baby eels. Rico cooked it wonderfully with onion, crab meat, eggs, and peppers only. We were saying that we were consuming a nation of creatures with this single dish, but still can’t resist it! Elas, amitabha. So I shouldn’t visit Madrid too often.
這是超市就有在賣的常見食物:冷凍鰻魚苗。就像是大尺寸的吻仔魚,而且更有彈性。朋友只是用洋蔥、蟹肉卷、蛋,加點胡椒去炒,就成了一道讓人難以抗拒的菜肴,像是純蛋白質的QQ意大利麵。一吃就是吃掉一整個國家的生物的感覺,哎呀,阿彌陀佛,一餐不知道造了多少孽,以後還是不能太常去西班牙…真是太讓人墮落的地方。
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