D1: 走进山西 / Arriving at Shanxi

摆脱懒散最有效的方法,就是订一張機票去目的地,迫使自己不得不开始前行。

一直掙扎着不愿出門,因爲习于待在小窝中——一切都很確定,充滿了安定性。出門则意味着得弄清楚 /要去哪裏、要住哪里,万一订不到房间、万一碰到坏人……很多的万一。

对比當年手机都没有就在外面游荡的日子,这些“万一”大多数都是自心编造出来,自己吓自己,自己给自己找藉口。

走出自己的安全范围后,慢慢尝到逐漸增强的自由感覺。

沒有计划、沒有对很多事物的偏見(哪里好、哪里不好、该见谁、不该做什么),有的只是无限的可能性。

Finally getting myself out of home. Guess the only way is to simply buy a flight ticket and act accordingly.

Had been so lazy lately, or more precisely, been unwilling to get out the comfort zone and face any uncertainty.

Yet once I step out towards the unknown world, the sense of freedom is gradually coming back. Once you get out the routine and framed environment, what exists is all sort of possibilities, instead of the paranoia – what if no place to stay, what if i get lost…all the imagined“what if”. 

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在机场大厅的旅行社订了一個明天去乔家大院和平遥的散客团。虽然平遥有长途客车可达,但是乔家大院沒有,这样省得我折腾找公车和换车。

出机场,搭上15元的机场巴士进市区。司机很好,沿路会宣说站名,还会提醒人在该下的地方下车和转什么公车。

住进酒店后,先去客运东站买去五台山的车票,但是竟然沒有预售票,只售当日票。

心里琢磨着让我一大早6点来排队买6:40的票,还不知有沒有,这样还不如再參加个300元的旅行团,抵上75元X2的车票+90元門票+150元的住宿,还附赠个導游,1人出門确实散客团划算,只要到了五台能脱团多住几天就好。脱离锱铢必较的生活还是不错的。

从客运站出来,预备打的去火车站前继续体会簡樸的生活——坐公车去晋祠。

第一台车大概嫌太近,不愿载。第二台车载了,却又继续招揽客人,让我有点不爽,因爲酒店太舒服耽搁了许久,有点担心来不及去晋祠,另一個誘惑是不如找家地道面馆,吃迟来的午饭,然后回酒店悠哉过一日。司机好不容易又拉上了一个女孩,我走下车让那女孩先上,因爲我肯定比较先下车,順便跟那司机理論他要怎么收我的钱。这时又来了一个中年男子,竟然一屁股坐到驾驶座上,我就有点懵了。爲了不再生枝結,和另一个女孩赶紧坐进车里,原先揽客的司机站在车外跟新来的司机讲着我听不懂的山西话,只得赶紧说我们分別要去哪里,催新司机赶快上路。沒想到他很酷的就回一句:“下车”,对我们视若无睹地继续跟揽客的司机讲话。

我很理智地觉得没必要再跟这台车折腾了,一声不吭下了车。跳上第三台计程车。

第三台车的司机开了一会儿车后,问我刚才怎么一回事。我稍作抱怨说你们太原司机揽客拼车也就算了,怎么有这种揽客不是揽自己的车,原车司机还叫人下车的事?太乱了!我猜想叫我们下车的是真正的车主,可能对于地点不满意所以拒载。原來我是冤枉太原了,第三车的司机说叫我们下车的是什么车管,那里不准拼车的。

后来我站在火车站前等公车时,心里有点害怕那第二车的司机会不会很不爽的要找我报复。因爲要是我没下车去看他揽客和还价,可能他不会被抓到在干拼车的勾当。

等了20分钟803公车才出现。2.5元的车子,坐了40分钟不只。还好是在起站坐的,才有位子,不过车一来几十个人涌上抢车位的景象也是挺吓人的。

天龙山 / Celestial Dragon Mountain

到了晋祠,先坐小巴上天龙山。一趟30元,就我一人,估计多几个人也就10-15元一人。

上山的路是一路蜿蜒在千米高的山脊上,爬到最高点据说有1700米。

途中有一段“怪坡“:下坡得踩油门前进,上坡时却是不踩油门,放空挡车会自己滑到最高点。很有趣。

This place is in the edge of Taiyuan city, where housed some caves dated back to 6th century. Most were ruined, but a few statues dated back to Tang Dynasty were still here, including a Manjushri riding on lion, a Samathabhadra on elephant, and a rare standing Avalokteshvara (11m tall), in front of a sitting 8-meter tall Maitreya. All 4 are beautiful statues made of stone, although unfortunately their current heads are not the original ones. Their real heads were cut off by Japanese and shipped to Japan, and the 11-head Avalokiteshvara was so precious that it ended up in British Museum now.

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一路石阶下山后,回望石窟区:
You can take a car to the height at 1700m to enter the site, then effortlessly visit the caves while walking all the way down.
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途中还有一座宝塔。当地人说是龙头处,蜿蜒的山脊則是龙背,龙将这一区環繞住。天上的一抹云,也让我想到龙。
A stupa is built in a place where the local say is the head of a dragon while the mountain looks like  the body of the dragon. This type of association is not uncommon in China, but I do find the clouds here interesting.
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景区下到最低处就是天龙寺,始于北魏,但是现在的寺庙是新建于80年代的。这里的和尚也是帮你看看相,要你买个香求这求那的……
The Celestial Dragon Temple is located in the end of the trail. It was rebuilt in the 80’s but they did a good job so it does remind you of the Tang/Sung dynasty era. 100817 Tian Long Shan 028100817 Tian Long Shan 029100817 Tian Long Shan 024

庙前有株”盘龙松“,盘着长的,覆蓋半径有两米多。
The pine tree in front of the temple is named as “coiled dragon” as it strangely doesn`t grow upwards but coiling the main trunk with branches spreading out like an umbrella.
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晋祠 / Jin Temple

网上都说這是太原唯一值得看的景点,真的强力推薦。请个導游会很有帮助。

This is a highly recommended (and usually the only) sightseeing site in Taiyuan city. A really amazing place well preserved really old stuff and buildings, even by Chinese standard. 

一进园子就见到戏台上有人在唱晋戏——旅游团为客人特別安排的十分钟演出,让我给蹭到。

晋祠的主殿是圣母殿(今年好像跟中国的圣母很有缘,昨天才写一个,今天又看到一个)。

圣母是姜子牙的义女、周武王的老婆、晋祠纪念的那位兴水利振民生的诸侯的母親。塑像是北宋的。北宋的耶!旁边的宫女、宦官也栩栩如生。其中一个头戴红花的舞伎宫女具有半哭半笑的陰陽脸,还被梅兰芳点评过为一絕。
The place was originally built by the local subject to pay respect to a vassal, yet the main shrine was dedicated to his mother. The statues were made in Song Dynasty, i.e. ca. 1000 years ago, with vivid presentation of her court/servants.
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哼哈二门将也很威武,而且保存的那么好!
The ancient gate keeper (image out of a deity) was also very cool:
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北宋铸造的四天王铁像至今仍闪闪發光——偉大的不锈钢啊!
Four Kings made of iron still in great shape. Amazing casting techniques for stainless steel – seriously, they used Cr. etc.
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最让我惊艳的是圣母殿八条门柱上的龙。山西的龙非常特別,你亲眼看到就能感觉我说的意思。
But the most impressive things in this shrine is the wooden dragons coiling around the 8 pillars.
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晋祠园内有数十棵千年老树。圣母殿旁的龙柏就有三千年。
There are tens of huge trees over thousands of years old within the garden.
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圣母殿右后方有个财神殿,闪过这里的相命師后再往上有些以前人读书做學問的地方,地方不大,但是很清幽雅緻。
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李白来过晋祠,还評價过这里的水是“流水如碧玉”。导游小姐一说,我的脚步都开始飘飘。

难老泉 / “Anti-aging” Spring:
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”水母殿“壁上画了很多龙也很可爱。在园子里兜的時候,又看到奇怪形狀的云。
There are numerous cute dragons all over the ceiling/walls of the Water Goddess Shrine. Again, the clouds here also presented some interesting shapes.100817 Jin Ci 050100817 Jin Ci 083 

圣母殿的西边有个西湖。每周去杭州的我呢,觉得这太原西湖虽小,也不错,特別是经过时正好太阳快要下山。杭州的西湖映月,晋祠的西湖映日,哈哈。The lotus pond to the left of the main shrine, and the sunset.
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晋祠内倒真有一座佛教寺廟:十方奉圣禅寺。看门阿姨说塑像是新造的,但建筑是元代的,木造结构,据传是唐代尉迟恭的别墅(是那個门神吗?)。最灵的是旁边的七层舍利塔(所在的院子叫浮屠院,浮屠就是古代对buddha的音譯,后来把stupa也称浮屠),時間够的话我可以在这里晃很久,见了这塔就想待着不走。可惜来的晚了,这帮阿姨们五点四十五就開始锁门,不然能登塔远望应该也很有意思。
A Buddhist temple within Jin Temple. The building was constructed in Yuan Dynasty.
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因为很喜欢这个塔,回来上网查查后方才知道果然有些来头的。初建于隋代,为的是胡人进贡的一颗佛祖釋迦牟尼舍利。到了乾隆年间重建时,发现原來埋的舍利从一颗变成了千百颗,遂称此塔为”舍利生生塔“。还真是直白的名字。
The stupa was originally constructed to store a ringsel of Shakyamuni. Hundreds years later, when they rebuilt the stupa, they found that the original one bead of relic increased to thousand beads. Hence the stupa is called “relics-grow-grow”stupa. An unusually cute name for Chinese stupa.

晚餐是锅魁和肥肠粉,大众点评网上找到的,就在酒店前面的路上,连打车钱都省了。太原半日游就此结束。
My half day tour ended with dinner at a tiny noodle place with good review and the place does live up to its reputation 🙂
100817 Dinner

廣告

關於 bella.chao
a simple wandering being on the less beaten tracks in samsara

One Response to D1: 走进山西 / Arriving at Shanxi

  1. Shelley says:

    山西的情调很不错,艺术品的保存尤佳。 喜欢的话,可以去一趟双林寺,也挺值的。

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