D2:乔家大院＋平遥古城+双林寺 / Qiao Family’s Compound & Ping-yao

昨天我在天龙山上小晒了一会儿，晚上发现脖子都红了，略有微词。山西的龙族很友善。今天一大早就聽說會下暴雨。逰喬家大院時下了點小雨，然後就一路是陰爽凉快的天氣，凉到加件t-shirt還不夠，爲五臺山準備的fleece jacket 提前派上用場。

喬家大院 / Qiao Family’s Compound

就是拍“大紅燈籠高高掛”的晉商大院。建築很有特色，但我看著老覺得很壓抑，因爲四合院的院子很小，像是四面厢房緊挨着，看不到天空的感覺。我住在裏面，肯定會很不開心，說不定也會被逼出個幽閉恐懼症。

這是江南沒有的獨特建築，所以還是值得一遊。

Qiao Family was a wealthy family operating the most well-run bank a couple of years ago. Their remittance system was so effective that even the Qing Dynasty’s  government money was handled by them. And their profitability lured Empress Dowager to request to join the business or establish a JV or something.

It first got famous because of a movie shooting here. The movie crew left the red lanterns used in the film here so lanterns are held all year round here despite traditionally they are only for special occassions.

平遙古城 / Pingyao City

比想象中大的多。北周時期初建，現在的城墻建於明代，保存的非常好，塔樓完完整整的，把整個城四四方方的圍在裏面，很有小西安的風範。從北門走到西門走了很久——全場6163公尺，所以今天走了估計有1.5公里。

An ancient small city with likely the best preserved city wall in China. There are numerous sight-seeing sites in this old town: city wall, major’s office/residence, banks, armed escort museum etc.

因爲是跟團，只帶我們看了城墻、縣衙門、日昇昌票號，而且這裏有地域保護主義。外車不能進城牆，必須有本地導遊講，保護之下，那個本地的導遊的素質真是有待加強，連問些基本問題都答不出來，像是平遙這個名字怎麽來的、日軍入侵時怎麼沒被毀壞等，景點的介紹也是丟三忘四的。路過聽到別的導遊講解，就比她詳細許多。

最有趣的應該是知府衙門的部份。知府審案處、他的宿舍、地方的糧廳等，不是很喜歡的是牢房、刑房的部份，不過也長了見識。

還好有脫團留下來。旅社頗有風味，四合院改建，屋內是炕（只是做做樣子），也就百來元一晚，比太原的漢庭還便宜。The guesthouse I am staying in 🙂

傍晚古城走走，脫離了白天那種鬧哄哄的旅遊氣息，才真正體會到古城的生活氣息。

雙林寺 / Shuang Lin Temple

脫團後自己雇了個三輪摩托車跑去離古城6公里的雙林寺，真是大爲驚艷！應該被列做“不到雙林，平遙白去”。

寺廟建築古樸莊嚴，和古城一樣，保存良好，連文革也沒有太多明顯的破壞（據說當年是做爲糧倉而倖免于難）。

這裏的導遊素質很好，一定要請，價錢也公道，20元，不像太原動輒50元喊起。

雙林寺舉世無雙的是古彩繪泥塑。存有一千多尊佛菩薩像，記得有一個殿裏就有509尊神態各異的菩薩像圍繞著主尊像。

This is 6km away from the old city. It is a must see and a real highlight of treasures here. They housed amazingly well-preserved clay statues, surviving from the Japanese invasion and the cultural revolution. Those statues were mostly made in Ming Dynasty, with a set of 18 arhats from Song Dynasty The quality of the scupturing reflects the economic affluence of local people. Even the colors remain vivid for most of them.

元朝的四大天王 / Four kings statues from Yuan Dynasty

 

釋迦牟尼和罕見的非大肚佛形象而是近古印度形象的天冠彌勒（明）/ Sakyamuni, Maitreya (Ming Dynasty)

彌勒兩旁的是梵天和帝釋天，看到師爺樣子的帝釋天，只能説本土化的徹底 / Brahma and Indra surrounding the Maitreya with amusing Chinese appearance.

普賢、觀音、文殊 /Samanthabhadra, Avalokiteshvara and Manjushri

非常幸運的是，出了雙林寺，顚著一點避震都沒有的三輪摩的，速度咋也快不起來的回到老城酒店後，雨點這才落下。等大雨傾盆而下時，我已經坐在安全的地方，手捧平遙著名的“麵托”祭五髒廟了。