D8:五台山的最后一天:火供 / Fire puja on the last day of Wutaishan trip

今天是农历七月十五盂兰节(中元普渡)。五台山几乎每座寺庙都在做法会。中午仁波切带着我们做了一个普渡火供,在上善财洞旁的寒林(大圓滿祖師师利星哈,即釋迦獅子虹化处),因为日子殊勝,地点殊勝,故爲了參加火供而在五台山多留了一天。
I extended my trip for an additional day as today is the 15th day of the 7th month in lunar calendar and Rinpoche holds a fire puja in a sacred location – the cemetery where Dzogchen Master Shri Singha attained rainbow body. It is a real blessing to have the opportunity to do a fire puja on a special date and in a special location during my first trip to Wutaishan.
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上午趁火供前有点時間,就去转佛母洞。那个洞口真不容易进,只有一肩宽,两手臂都得笔直伸在头前才能进,但是进去后别有洞天,也是有著种种显灵异象传说的地方。平常据说要排上至少一小时才能进,但是今天是特别日子,香客都去别处庙里做法会或許愿,所以我完全不需要排队就在前後兩位善心人士的幫助下进去了。
Before the fire puja, I went to Tara’s Cave, which usually takes hours to queue in order to enter the cave as the entrance is super narrow – only shoulder-wide so you must extend both arms in front of your head and need help from people behind you to push. Fortunately most devotees went to other temples for the special ceremonies today so there were only four people in front of me and they were all very kind to help me get in and out. 
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拼车的人在经过白云寺时说要去礼佛,也跟着去。跟白云寺大概是有点緣分,她們在殿外烧香,我转进天王殿內时梵呗大作,原來是方丈带着左右两列敲钟敲木鱼的尼師在拜韦陀,没多久拜完了,跟在他们身後進入正院,发现那边排排站了上百位居士,然后他们非常有次序地进去内院做法会。我见那阵仗着实吓了一跳,他们见殿內钻出一个在家人大概也觉得莫名所以。

白云寺感觉跟台湾的道场很像,规矩多,进大雄宝殿参拜要套上鞋套,进厕所要换拖鞋。所以地方特干净,而且我很景仰这边的僧眾,在各处看管的居士虽然会义正严词的纠正游客各种事宜,像是在殿內绕佛像时也要顺时针走,但是她們跟这些游客说话时都是和颜悦色的,让人敬佩她們的修行。白云寺的结缘经书处也是我看到目前種類最多的,以淨土宗爲主。

做完火供后,跟仁波切和另外两位杭州居士去参拜清凉寺和金阁寺。清凉寺就是顺治皇帝出家处,里面有块巨大的陨石——清凉石(曼殊床、歇龙石),相传是文殊说法的法台,也说是文殊从龙宫帶來原本旱热之五台山使之清凉之石,众说纷纭,总之躺着很舒服,天上还下起了每几秒钟一滴的雨,我们笑说是甘露。

排排躺在上清凉石上面时,早上佛母洞一起包车的三个山西人竟然也出现了,有缘就是有緣,於是一起搭车之后,又一起躺在清凉石上。

金阁寺则有尊将近18米高的千手观音像,極爲莊嚴,还有非常有特色的悬塑五百罗汉像,很值得一看。
After the fire puja, we went to 2 temples relatively far away from the main town. One is Qing-Liang  (meaning“cool”) Temple with a 5 meter long meteorite said to be where Manjushri proclaimed dharma or what Manjushri brought from the naga realm to cool the mountain (Wutaishan’s alias is Cool Mountain). No matter what, it feels great lying on that rock so we spent quite some time there. This temple was also where an Chinese emperor took ordination and quit his powerful mundane life. The other is Jin-Ge Temple, which houses a 17.7m tall thousand arms Avalokiteshvara, my favorite in the mountain.
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回來后抓紧時間去绕了在下善财洞寺后院的顶果欽哲仁波切舍利塔。非常感谢上海師兄的提醒,他像是我在外面乱跑时的指南针一样。
After being back to the main town, I went to see Dilgo Khentse Rinpoche’s stupa. Thanks to Tony’s kind reminder, otherwise I would have missed this one.
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然后用仅余的時間去绕文殊髮塔和大白塔,每次在塔院寺見到汉藏一家一起修法,就觉得特別歡喜。希望很快能有缘再次前來朝山。
Then the day again ended with circumambulating the Manjuri Stupa and the Great Stupa. Thus completed my Wutaishan trip. Hope I will be here again soon.  
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