松潘古鎮 / Songpan

用即將過期的國航里程換了到成都的獎勵機票,再用南航里程換了成都—九寨溝的機票。中國這些航空公司的獎勵機票艙位極其稀少,故能湊成一趟行程,實屬不易。

成都到九黃機場的航程只有35分鐘,看到崇山峻嶺在雲海中如島嶼般浮起,十分有趣。若跟兩百年前的人說,人能於天空翱翔,見此奇景,彼當以爲仙人矣。我們現代人的生活很多時候確實有如天道。
My soon to be expired mileage sort of mandated this trip. It only took 35 minutes to fly from Chengdu to JiuZhaiGou. Seeing the mountain peaks sticking out of ocean of clouds like islands, made me think that modern people’s life must seem like life in god realm for people only a couple of hundred years ago.
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下了飛機,直接坐出租車到松潘古鎮。機場告示牌上提示日間90元,夜間120元,我上車後又來一人,最後我給了70元,那個當地人給50元。

松潘,古稱“松州”,是古代通往吐蕃要道上的軍事重鎮。當年松贊干布向唐朝求婚不果,就是發動戰爭打到這裏,皇帝一看來勢汹汹,方才將文成公主嫁去拉薩。
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現今城門口立了松贊干布和文成公主的塑像,紀念此段歷史。
I started my trip in this area with Song-Pan, an ancient town located in the border between Tibet and Tang Dynasty. When Songtsen Gampo asked Tang Emperor to grant marriage with Chinese princess for strengthening relationship between the 2 countries and got rejected, he raged a war invading Songpan (or Song-Zhou in ancient time) in 638 with 200K soldiers. This demonstration of Tibetan military power and simultaneous negotiation effort made the Chinese emperor to wed Princess Wen-Cheng to Songtsen Gampo and she subsequently passed by this place and bring in much knowledge on agriculture and buddhism to Tibet. Now there is a statue of this couple in front of the gate towards the old town, memorizing peace resulting from their marriage.

司機説只有四個城門是老的,城墻都是近年新建的。以前人建城墻抵禦外人進入,現在人建城墻招攬天下客入城,平遙、大同都是如此,真是此一時彼一時也,這不知算不算是人類文明進步、心胸較爲寬廣的象徵。
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街上雖然打造的以觀光爲主,但不像江南那些“古鎮”那樣商業化。這裏的生活氣息濃厚,路上穿梭著藏族和回族人,服飾店、百貨店、食品店多。首飾店裏看了一會兒金匠製作金珠項鏈,還有一家店門口放了幅十字繡做成的唐卡。
Though the old town was renovated like a tourist place, but I did not see many tourists around, probably because of the recent blockage in land transportation. The streets are full of local Tibetan and Muslim people and shops are rather targeted at their daily needs. I spent quite some time watching a goldsmith making a necklace, saw a unusual tangka made of cross-stitch, went for a small walk on the hill surrounding the town, and ended my first day at high altitude with massage and a nap.  
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明天騎馬去雪寶頂。本來是想去牟尼溝的,但是馬隊推薦雪寶頂神山,故隨緣前往。

九黃機場那裏海拔有~3500米,松潘緩解到~3000米,雪寶頂說是有~5588米,希望上去沒有什麼高原反應。

Tomorrow I will take a trip of 3 days horse riding to visit a sacred mountain which I have no clue of  (something like Shar-Dung-Ri in Tibetan). It is recommended by the horse tour organizer this very afternoon, but I suppose I will enjoy any remote place as usual.

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關於 bella.chao
a simple wandering being on less beaten tracks in samsara

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