雪寶鼎三日騎馬遊 / Horse riding to Shar Dung Ri Mountain (3)

Day 3—寺廟/Monastery

今天又是陰雨綿綿的天氣,可憐的韓國人今天要上雪寳鼎,十之八九是看不到什麼了。
It was raining again in the morning and did not stop when we departed, so we had to put on raincoats. I guess the Korean guy going to the ice mountain today would probably ended up like the poor French group with low visibility.
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早餐是饅頭,但是個人覺得吃起來比較像是麵包。是我們昨天去雪寳鼎時,留下來的那位導遊做的。回族真是很會做麵食,他拿著麵粉,用鍋子和柴火就能烤出好吃的麵包,真是了不起。
The guide staying at the camp yesterday made some bread as breakfast today. Really impressive to see these muffins made out of wood fire and their simple cooking pots. 100830 雪寶頂 260

第一次在雨中騎馬。有個好處,就是馬兒很怕雨衣發出悉窣聲,所以要它快走跟上前馬時,只要手輕輕一擺弄點聲音,比鞭子還管用。
My guide warned me not to move in the raincoat as the horse is extremely sensitive to the sounds of raincoat. Indeed, a small move would make the horse run. It is actually very convenient, when I needed the horse to walk faster, I just moved my arm a bit and the noise would make the horse do what I want. Highly effective!

目的地是返回松潘,結束三日遊。途中說是會讓我們看看一日遊去的寺廟,在那裏稍作休息。
It is our last day so we are heading back to Songpan. The guides said they would bring us to see the monastery where the 1-day tour people went and we will have a lunch break there.

雨衣上的水一直滴在鞋子上,沒多久腳就冷到毫無知覺。正午時遠遠看到一個村寨中的白色佛塔,動機不純地欣喜不已,覺得終於能解脫了。
The drizzling rain made my feet completely wet and freezing numb. At noon time, seeing a white stupa did make me feel like approaching liberation.

近看這個佛塔,就這個寥寥數間房子的村子而言,還真是碩大無比,而且這裏環繞寺廟的轉經輪墻比前天看到的還壯觀。
The stupa was built upon a huge mountain of mani stones. The wall of prayer wheels was even more impressive than the one we saw 2 days ago, as if the whole village was surrounded.
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跑進寺廟裏,正琢磨著如何找喇嘛開門讓我們參觀大殿(藏傳佛寺的殿堂是供修法用,一般沒有僧眾聚集時常常是鎖上的),意外發現門是開著的,裏面還有幾位小喇嘛。我問他們可不可以進去,他們説可以。

進去後乖乖磕了三個頭,起身後問小喇嘛這是不是格魯派的寺院(印象中川北甘南一帶都是黃教寺院),小喇嘛沒做答,只説可以往殿內去轉轉。

順著走進內部佛龕前發現有個沙壇城,原來他們正好在修七天的法,現在是休息時間,所以我們才會碰到門開著裏面有人。轉到佛龕另一邊時,見到一張熟悉的相片被供奉著,是薩迦法王年輕時的法照。還想說是不是自己認錯了,或是哪個信徒自己放在這裏的,就問小喇嘛這是哪位……支吾溝通了半天,原來這是座薩迦的寺廟。因緣巧合的,我又走進一座薩迦的寺廟,而且大概是這一帶唯一的一座。
I expected the monastery to be locked as usual, since it was lunch time and monks should be away somewhere. Yet the main shrine was open with a few young monks inside. They approved us to enter and take a look. We saw a sand mandala inside. They were in the middle of a 7 days puja hence the shrine was open. My impression was that this part of the area was full of Bon and majority of buddhist monastery would belong to Gelupa, so it was a real surprise to see HH Sakya Trizin’s photo on the shrine. It turned out that I stepped into the only  Sakya monastery in this region. Felt really blessed.
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覺得走到哪裏都有上師的護祐,開心的告別小喇嘛們。

走出寺廟後,滴滴答答大半天的雨就停了,老外也覺得很吉祥。我們再啃了一點麵包,回到馬背,沒多久就回到松潘,結束我們的三日行。
The rain stopped completely when we stepping out of the monastery. Then we continued the trip and got back to Songpan at 13:30.  Thus ended the 3-day tour.
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提示:
-順江馬隊就在松潘長途汽車站旁邊,郭老闆:13909043513,他們的旅舍很乾淨,性價比高。旁邊有間安徽光明超市,是支建的安徽人開的,估計是廠商直供,價格比街上小店便宜。松潘的物價在九寨溝黃龍這一帶是最便宜的,所以補給乾糧在這裏買齊最划算。
—馬隊的價格已經漲到220元/天。行程有一日上泥巴寺行程,二日牟尼溝行程,三日雪寳鼎行程,四日七藏溝行程。去雪寳鼎時,天氣好的話還可以走到更遠山脚下的湖邊,去前最好跟郭老闆要求一下。
—像老外那樣能吃苦不挑剔的話,真的可以穿暖了衣服什麼都不帶。山上濕寒,冬衣、防水鞋是必備,大雨時他們有雨衣,但是能有件防水的外套還是很實用;衛生紙是他們唯一沒有提供的日常用品。

Tips:
—ShunJiang Horse Trek is not far from the Songpan Bus Station. It is well documented in the Lonely Planet and probably more famous among foreign backpackers than the locals.
—The tour cost has increased drastically after the 2007 earthquake and is now 220 RMB/day. There are trips lasting from one day to 4 days to pick.
—It is wet in the mountain so waterproof hiking shoes and jacket is a must. You will be really thankful with a good pair of shoes when walking down the muddy and slippery trails (generally horse up walk down). 

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關於 bella.chao
a simple wandering being on the less beaten tracks in samsara

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