贡嘎雪山的摩托車之旅 / Motorcycle tour at Kunga Mountain

跟着贡嘎寺堪布去贡嘎寺。贡嘎寺有三个,分别在不同的地方。一个是历代贡嘎活佛修行的老贡嘎寺,一个是供有上一世贡嘎活佛肉身的新贡嘎寺,还有一个是现在正在建造的新新贡嘎寺。
I tagged along Kunga Monastery’s khenpo to visit this famous Kagyu monastery. There are actually three Kunga Monasteries in the area: an old one, a new one housing the body of the previous Kunga Rinpoche, and a new-new one they are building now. Khenpo was going back to check the progress of the construction. 
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(子梅山垭口,后面是贡嘎雪山/Tsemi Pass 4650m with Kunga Range in the back)

从康定过去,一路上的民居都极为富丽堂皇,各家都像是皇宫一般。
From Kangding city to Kunga country, all the Tibetan houses are as grand as palaces.
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路上有个圣泉,堪布带着大家去取泉水喝。
There is a sacred spring in the mid way, Khenpo-la led us to taste the spring water.
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中午在九龙-沙德吃飯时,餐厅前的一辆车子上见到萨迦法王一家人去年在澳洲拍的全家福,倍感亲切。
In front of the lunch place out of no where, there parked a car with a photo of HH Sakya Trizin and the family which they took last year in Sydney 🙂 100909 Kung Ga Monastery 012 100909 Kung Ga Monastery 029

到达贡嘎乡时已经下午三点多了,心里盼着能在仅有的两天时间中去老贡嘎寺,不过堪布的弟子说时间已晚,又在下雨,叫我放弃。心里觉得很可惜,但这是自己的缘分,也没办法。师兄在分配新新寺住宿的房间时,堪布把我叫了过去,问我是不是还想去老贡嘎寺,我马上点头如捣蒜,堪布确定我没有什么高原反应后,叫侍者帮我找了台摩托车,就让我去了。
After lunch, with the typical welcoming folks along the way we proceeded fairly slowly. It was over 3pm when we finally arrived at the new-new Kunga Monastery. The organizing Beijingnese told me it is not possible to go to the old monastery in such late hours as it is 3+ hours away, plus it was raining. Fortunately Khenpo still remembered my tight schedule (i.e. leaving tomorrow!) and summoned me to see him before he started the series of meetings. Once he made sure that I do not have any problem with the altitude, he asked his attendant to find me a motorcycle to proceed!
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(第一台车载的是我的行囊,过度重负让我的司机吃足了苦头 / my loaded luggage brought us a lot of trouble along the muddy way)

我欢天喜地地要出发时,同行的尼師听到我能去老贡嘎寺,马上说她也要去。问题是她有七十三高龄,坐3个多小时的摩托,要是有个闪失,我怎么担待的起?我觉得很不妥,堪布的侍者也很紧张,请示了两次。尼師説她昨晚有請寺内的堪布打卦,说卦象非常好,但是我还是很担心,甚至想过趁着老尼师在找她的水壶时一走了之,但是她说了:“我现在不去,这辈子就没有机会去了”。老人家这样说了,那还能怎么拦呢?

我们搭上两个年轻小伙子的车。他们去新贡嘎寺那边加个油,再回家换个衣服,真正出发时都四点半了。
At first, there was just me and a local guy (later I learned that he is the nephew of Khenpo) responsible to bring me to the old monastery. However, the nun from Dorje Drak also insisted that she should go with me so we became a four-people group. After we found another vehicle, loaded everything, refilled the gas and followed the motorcycle riders to their home so that they can put on warmer clothes, it was half pass four already when we actually departed. 
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(载我的摩托车手家里,他母亲在织氆氇,地上晒着蚕豆)

一开始还好。先是翻过一个4650米的子梅山垭口,下到一个小村子的山沟里,路是土路,但是平坦宽敞,小伙子在颠簸的车上,还能放声高歌,唱歌功力十足,我也练就了在摩托上单手照相的技术。
At first it was very enjoyable. We coursed through the mountains at relative flat and wide paths and reached the Tsemi pass at 4650m. Down in the valley after the pass was Tsemi village, then the challenge came with the muddy steep trail leading to our destination.  
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到了村子后面要再次上山时,就不好玩了。

土路就是条羊肠小径,因为之前下雨,非常湿滑,泥泞多的地方车子会打滑,很危险,一加油后轮就打滑,不加油车子就陷在泥巴里,完全凭骑手的经验和双脚在泥巴中辅助才能顺利前进。有大块石头和树根的地方,车子根本上不去,必须一人骑一人推才能前行。没多久就变成两个车手互相帮忙推车上山,我跟尼師在后面步行跟着。
The nun came with me was 73 years old so I was really worried about her. Thanks to prostration exercise, blessings from her Guru, or a good divination result as she claimed to have the day before for this trip, at least she was able to go on and off the motorbike by herself and walked  when needed. Yet the further we went, the more time we had to climbed the mountain on our feet as the trail was so steep and slippery that the motorcycle can not handle the climbing and  the two guys had to helped each other to push up the bike, which means the nun and myself were pretty much on our own feet.  Not to mention that it was raining and getting dark (while my flashlight was in the bag on the motorbike already out of sight). I can only look at the delicious mushrooms along the way and visualize how tasty they would be only if I had time to collect them and bring them to the monastery…
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(因为下雨,满地是蘑菇,看著眼馋,可惜没时间采,否则上老贡嘎就多一道菜吃)

尼師年纪大自然脚程慢些,不过她还能自己走。最让我担心的是那时已经七点半了,天色非常昏暗,眼睛手术的后遗症让我几乎看不清路,手电筒又在车上的包里,而车子早就不知爬到哪里去了。一边想要追上车子拿手电筒,一边又担心尼師跟不上,走一会儿就得停下来等她,确定她来到视线范围内才敢继续走。最后到达时都晚上八点二十,天色全暗,小雨沥沥,寺門深锁。
It was so dark in the woods that at one point of time the old nun got lost until the two bikers sought her out. After the struggle felt like an hour long, we finally got back onto the motorcycles and proceeded in complete darkness with little visibility – the only thing my impaired vision offered was cliff on one side, narrow muddy and slippery trail and non-stop fog/rain. I was constantly pondering which risk is larger – riding the motorcycle or walking by myself in this kind of situation. I failed to reach any conclusion and we finally arrived at the monastery at half past 8.

喊了一会儿门,才来一个喇嘛开门。开门后,拿出一条二十公分宽的木头架在大门台阶上,让摩托车顺着木头跨越数层阶梯骑进寺庙里,像是特技表演。说是这一带有强盗,虽然强盗还没有上庙里来过。
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说真的,我想强盗也不会上庙里来的。一来是藏人的话,信仰虔诚,打劫庙堂的可能性小;二来是这庙里也没什么好偷的——就一个扎巴看守,(平常还有一个,但是另一个下山去了),没电没自来水没手机信号,更没有什么值钱物品。我们就着昏暗的太阳能电灯(这两天下雨,日光微弱,所以灯光也是要亮不亮的),升起炉火,煮了面吃。这会儿还有个西安人在这里做四加行兼禁語闭关,真是很有决心又有好福报的人,能在这种圣地做前行的修持。
The guys yelled for a while until a monk came out to open the gate for us. There is no electricity, no mobile phone signal, no tap water. We were totally unexpected guests for the only monk looking after this place. Yet he was kind as all Tibetans, he made us tea, hot water (for making instant noodles – our guides were super considerate in bring these noodles when they refilled the gas, otherwise we would end up having only tsampa as supper).

我吃的慢,还没吃完晚饭,喇嘛已经带着摩托司机去帮我们准备房间。不一会儿,黑漆漆的寺院传来一阵哐哐哐、狂敲烂打的声音。原来是房间钥匙找不着,他们只好把锁给打坏——救命啊!来叨扰人家已经挺不好意思了(没有通讯方式,所以对看庙的喇嘛来讲,我们是十足的不速之客);来不到一个小时,又把人家的门给砸了……阿弥陀佛,不知这又折损我多少的福德资粮。
While I was still eating, the monk and the 2 guides went preparing rooms/beds already. The monk was so unprepared that he could not even find the keys to the rooms so these three Tibetans worked very hard to demolished the locks of guestrooms by sheer force…what a day!

第二天起来云雾袅袅,四周转转才看清老寺的全貌。
The next day under sun light I finally got a chance to look at the monastery. There are actually many buildings around for this monk to attend. Except for the main shrine/living area we stayed, there are also a separate Avalokitesvara shrine, a Padmasambhava shrine with prayer wheels, a few stupas, and a few independent houses appearing to be perfect retreat places.
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(老贡嘎寺的主殿,也就是我们住的地方在最右边,旁边有观音殿和新修的蓮師殿)

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(这两间屋子看著就觉得超级适合闭关的)

Yet the real retreat place of the old Kunga Monastery is still half day walking distance away in the ice mountains. 
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(老寺前的山沟中有雪水从冰山上川流而下,左边层层山峦过去再走个半天路才到老贡嘎寺的闭关中心,发愿下次要去住几天)

告别接待我们的喇嘛,他送给我两串自己挖的红景天。我跟他说了自己没有高原反应(反而愈上高山,精神愈好),不过他说这个对通脑子很好,硬要我收下,我就拿来补补脑咯,贡嘎神山的药草呢~
The monk gave me some Rhodiola roots he dug/dried which is the most popular anti-altitude sickness cure for Chinese.
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(虽然山上什么都没有,但是喇嘛还是弄了些花草供佛)

最神奇的是我们要离开时,摩托车手刚把行李装上车,我正要一脚跨上时,竟然飘起雪来!一瞬间觉得难以置信,望了几秒钟,雪愈下愈大,雪花落在手上都看得见。大家都高兴的不得了,觉得极为祥瑞,喇嘛说是今年的初雪。看了一眼手表,早晨九点三十一分。
Right before I hopped on the motorcycle to leave the monastery, it started snowing! The monk said it was the first snow for this year. 9:31 am, what an auspicious and memorable moment for this trip. 

下山时,跟昨日雨夜奔走的情形不可同日而语,轻松愉悦。我蹦蹦跳跳,半个小时就下了山。途中还经过一个“不动佛圣地”。下次我想可以自己爬山上去。
Not for long I decided to quit the effort of getting on and off the motorbike due to the various course conditions. The nun continued to ride on the bike, while I happily ran down the trail, only lagging behind them by a few minutes. There was even a “Akshobhya sacred place” on the way. I think I will walk up and down this part of the trail the next time I come. Hopefully I can spend a few days in the retreat place then.
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顺原路再次翻过子梅山,远眺贡嘎雪山。摩托车手心情也很好,还去爬移动的塔台——真是建的有够煞风景的。
Back on the Tsemi Pass again, the 2 guides were also in good mood. They even went climbing the ugly empty mobile tower. 100909 Kung Ga Monastery 113

在山上,尼師采起煙供的树枝,骑手也下去帮忙。我不知道什么能当香烧,帮不上忙,就到处看花。藏地的高山上从四川到印度北部都一样,漫山遍野都是芬芳的植物。
The nun and my guide collected some plants for making incense while I appreciated the highland flowers.
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下山后,再请骑手带我们去新贡嘎寺朝拜上一世贡嘎活佛的肉身——他是上世紀在漢地傳法的西藏喇嘛的先驅,國民黨諸多高官將領都曾皈依其座下,例如李宗仁、陳立夫等。他的传记中有详细记载他圆寂坐化,法体不坏,在文革期间經由信徒曲折保存下来的经过。
Then the riders brought us to the New Kunga Monastery where we paid respect to the flesh body of the previous incarnation of Kunga Rinpoche who was pivotal in introducing Tibetan Buddhism to Chinese in the last century. As innumerable realized beings in Buddhism history and in other religions, his body naturally remains after he passing away and was successfully hid by several witty local Tibetans during the cultural revolution.
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新贡嘎寺后面有一处泉水,据称是由第二世贡嘎活佛开出的泉眼。
As in many other monasteries, there is also a spring/well discovered by the first founder of the monastery believed to be a result of magical power.
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新贡嘎寺旁边有座萨迦寺,两家互相挨着,看守新贡嘎寺的喇嘛带着我们从山上走过去。萨迦寺的看家喇嘛在修法,所以这位贡嘎寺的喇嘛带我们转了这个寺庙,看来两家是很好的邻居。
A Sakya monastery is right next door to the New Kunga Monastery and the Kagyu monk was very kind bringing us over and even showing us around since the only monk in that monastery was in the middle of doing a prayer.
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师兄很仁慈的帮我们弄了台车返回康定,结束我的两日游。开车的司机很好,虽然他送我们过去后,当晚又得赶回贡嘎,但还是不疾不徐地让我沿路照相:山沟里独特的多角型碉楼,还有藏民们在高原山上排出的各式咒语。
So I successfully finished my Kunga Monastery visit within two days and returned to Kangding. The fortress towers in this area is also quite unique.
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经过折多山时,山上白雪纷飞,和昨天的晴朗天气完全不同。山神留了我一会儿,第二天清早还在飘雪,因为能见度低,飞机迟了数个小时才能从成都飞过来,我们在康定机场耗了四个小时。
It was snowing in Zheduo Mountain nearby Kangding. Kangding Airport was heavily affected. The low visibility caused my flight to delay for 4 hours.
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特别感谢堪布,在白忙之中还记得我时间有限的事情。让我在心里准备放弃时,有缘顺利朝拜老贡嘎寺。

***

我们的行为,要做到小乘的行为。
我们的思想,要符合大乘的思想。
我们的见地,要达到金刚乘的见地。

小乘的行为是,少欲知足、谨慎取舍。
大乘的思想是,毫不利己、普度众生。
金刚乘的见地是,悲智双运、轮涅不二。

——太桥旦增堪布

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