菩提迦耶(2)大禮拜和供養 / Prostrations and Offerings in Bodhgaya

大清早從四點多開始就有眾多朝聖者前往大覺寺禮佛禪坐。一團團著白色衣飾印度面孔的是斯里蘭卡人,每天各個時刻都同時有數團在。不知道那個國家有多少人口,感覺一大部分都在這裡。

還有穿裙子的在家人,大部份是緬甸寮國一帶的。著白色現代服飾的則可能是越南人、泰國人或日本人。

Every morning, people start coming into the Mahabodhi Temple at 4am while it is still dark. Amazing numbers of people from Sri Lanka and many from Thailand, Mianmar, Vietnam, or even Taiwan. They are so devoted that many of the groups would carry some big offering items together, and some would even hold a lotus while walking towards the temple. 

來者都極盡虔誠清淨之意,或手持蓮花依次進到園區,或共持大型供養物前來。
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上圖這個西洋僧人非常莊嚴,每天都是五點前就到,在同一位置靜坐,直到九點、十點太陽較大才離去。修行有沒有當然不能從外表判斷,但是有的人就是威儀具足,令人見到即心生歡喜。
This is a pretty impressive Western Shravaka monk. He always sits in the same spot everyday from 4am till approaching noon time, without moving at all. Though you can never judge a practitioner by appearance, this one is so impressive that you feel joyful by simply looking at him. 

大禮拜 / Prostration

有很多藏傳佛教徒都是專程來做大禮拜的。畢竟,還有哪裡比佛陀成道之地更適合做皈依禮敬呢?

僧人們一來都是好幾個月,會找個有陰影的角落擺上木板(可以自己買,也可以跟寺廟租,一個月500盧比),晚上離開時會在木板外面罩上塑料布以防夜露濕寒並保持潔淨。

有幾個來自哦寺的喇嘛在右圖那一區。雖然原本不認識,但是他們都很照顧我,所以我也自然落腳在他們那裏。

Many Tibetan Buddhists come for doing prostration. There are a few monks from Ngor Monastery. Though I did not know them prior to the trip, they were very kind to let me use an idle board and even lent me their mattress when I needed.
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喇嘛讓我使用一塊板子,就在最右邊的小樹旁,是他們這幾天剛好不在的同修的。從木板上的記號看來,是薩迦寺的札西喇嘛的,感恩!

My spot is towards the right end by the small tree in the right photo. I became so gracious after only 20 minutes of prostration. The lamas were really kind to let me do prostration there. Without the tree shade, I probably would not last for more than 30 minutes.

喇嘛們真的人很好,不只讓我用木板,還幫我調整木板下面墊的石塊,確定平穩牢靠(我完全沒想到這層,墊子一擺就傻傻的要拜了),發現我少買個墊子,還把自己的墊子拿來給我用。其實他們本來叫我不用買墊子的,因為只有幾天,他們借我就好,不過我想能帶回哦寺去用也很好,就買了一套——蔣揚噶瑪喇嘛講價超厲害,長墊加兩個手墊才70盧比,要是我自己去的話,估計兩倍價錢才買得到。

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早上五點多時還有人會供養早餐,有甜甜圈、大餅、素包子和奶茶。這些施主也不打擾你,你做你的功課,他們就把食物放在板上。沒想到不是出家人的我也有份。平常在廟裡吃十方供養的食物都會有點害怕,擔心自己福德不夠,承受不起(讀究給企千仁波切的“遠離四種執著”裏面就有再三告誡出家眾都須警惕十方供養不是隨便就吃得起的),但是在這裡只覺得溫暖,是大家庭一樣的感覺。
This is my board. Every morning there will be some people offering breakfast to the practitioners. They would just leave these vegetarian food quietly without disturbing us. You really feel being taken care of here as a part of the Buddha’s family.

每一拜抬頭就是大覺寺的主殿,真是太幸福了。
101109 Bodhgaya 025Sometimes I will bring some flowers and incense nearby, just to create an enjoyable environment for prostration/visualization. It was such a luxury to be able to see the Mahabodhi Temple and the bodhi tree in each prostration.

菩提迦耶的加持力大。平常一次最多做100個,這裏可以一口氣做上250個大禮拜。三天做下來2100個(其實人家喇嘛一天就這個數了~),至低至低有個減肥的功效。第二天的時候,打個噴嚏都會腹部痠痛。
The blessings in Bodhgaya is very obvious. I could usually do only 100 prostrations each time with much of the time resting on the ground, here, easily 200+. So I successfully completed my aspiration of doing 2100 prostrations for the 3 days here, not to mention that I only did it in the early morning and late afternoon when the sun was not too strong.

菩提迦耶的加持力還大到能立即滿願。這幾個月想請《山淨煙供》的口傳都沒有機緣,做大禮拜才一上午,中午吃飯喇嘛就閑聊到敦珠丹增伊喜多傑仁波切在我的正左邊做大禮拜。雖然我不認識他,這次見到他本人之前連相片都沒看過,不過覺得這是佛祖送來給我接口傳的機會,畢竟現在通用的《山淨煙供》儀軌是上一世敦珠仁波切整理加撰出來的,所以敦珠揚希肯定有傳承。只不過,對於是否要打擾人家靜修,猶豫了一天,最後還是抵不過自己對法的貪執,最終在他休息時冒昧上前去求法~他的英文很好,人也很好,隔天就幫我唸了法本。
Also, right after the first morning of doing prostration, someone in lunch time told me that Dudjom Tenzin Yeshe Dorje Rinpoche was only less than 30 meters away from where I was. Though I did not know him or even ever see his pictures before, I do feel that Buddha must have sent him to fulfill my wish to get oral transmission of Riwo Sangcho. Though a bit hesitated to disturb him,  I eventually made the request during his break and got my transmission.

結論就是做大禮拜的功德很大,回報很快。
In summary, the blessings from doing prostration in Bodhgaya is just amazingly obvious and swift to come!

供養 / Offering

釋迦牟尼像前是供養物不斷。有鮮花、水果,中午還有一整盤盛在大缽內或各式小器皿內的精美飯肴,都是信徒們陸續不斷拿來的。所有供品都是用心擺設,極盡恭敬之能事,讓人非常隨喜。

So offerings of flowers, food have naturally been flowing constantly towards the main statue. The 195 lama also taught me something new, which is to offer robe to the Buddha statue. As we did not bring a robe, the office provides 3-piece robe for offering at a mere 500 Rupee. He even got one piece back after the offering, supposed to be a real blessed object. 

還有佛衣。有信徒自己備好三法衣帶來供佛,黃色、金色、絳紅色都有,甚至有精美到在披肩上鏽有大蓮花的,非常發心。只要交給殿內執事的僧人,他們就會幫佛像披上。沒有帶的話,也可以像195喇嘛一樣,去辦公室請,才500盧比,供完後他還拿了一件回來,應該很有加持力。
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供養不只是在殿內,殿外也有。不只是貴重的供養(像是美國的塔唐祖古供養了一整排刻滿般若經的金色看板在外側繞塔處),只要誠心,一杯水也是供養。

像是下圖這一小杯水。猛一看還以為是誰拿咳嗽藥水瓶的瓶蓋放在這裏,仔細一看,就是乾乾淨淨的一個小杯,裏面盛滿水,讓人非常隨喜這人的發心。確實如同祖師大德們說的,勿以善小而不為,那是自己懶散的藉口。
People make offerings everywhere, not only inside the temple, but also outside as well. It can be as small as this mini cup of water. Yet you can feel the sincere devotion and pure intent of whoever brought that small cup, filled it with water, and offered it here.
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或者像我做大禮拜後面的一位喇嘛,他每天都會在圓形的佛塔座上放滿一圈小杯供水和花。這個組合還蠻熱門的,大家各自排列出一些美觀的圖案,真的,重要的是心意。
Or like the lama behind me doing prostration, he would lay out a circle of small cups of water with a flower in each cup everyday. This is a popular combination. People would lay out the offerings in various shapes.
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這個老先生也是讓我很欽佩的。第一次注意到他是因為他竟然在正午12點熱到不行時在大太陽底下供水,後來發現他每天都在同一地點供水。他自備了數不清的銅碗,先把供杯洗乾淨,再擦乾淨,然後慢慢供水、排列,全部排滿後,下午再來收掉。日復一日……
This old man was someone I admired a lot. The first time I saw him was at noon time. Under the unbearable heat, he was washing the copper cups, drying them one by one carefully, then offering the water diligently. Later during the day, he would clean out all the cups. Then I saw he did the same offering everyday…

什麽都沒帶來,又想供點什麽的話,大覺寺門口有一堆賣花、賣香…等的攤子。總之是只要有心,不愁沒得供。
For people not bringing anything for offering, there are many people selling flowers, incense etc. outside the temple.  
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這團泰國人更是發心宏偉。他們帶來了一卷又一卷的布料,花了兩天時間親手把大覺寺用布料包裝的金碧輝煌。還有人造荷花,放在每一尊佛像的佛龕前(圖片是我很喜歡的一尊文殊菩薩像。這些佛像都是近代加上的,原來阿育王建塔的時代還是聲聞乘依循佛制不許有偶像崇拜的時期,偶像包括釋迦牟尼自己的像)。泰國人還空運來不知多少鮮花,兩天後,所有主要通道都布滿了鮮花和人造梅花樹。原來是為了大覺寺管委會每年舉辦一次的供僧袍活動(已經九屆了,南傳傳統上夏安居期間在家人會縫製僧袍,夏安居結束後就會供僧袍,也算是一種慶祝),今年是由泰國贊助,這些泰國人是提前過來布置會場的。 
Nov. 10 would be the Annual Robe Offering Ceremony, organized by the Mahabodhi Temple Management Committee. This year it was sponsored by Thai Buddhists, therefore a group of Thai people started decorating the site on the 2nd day while we were there. They brought a huge amount of textile, flowers and worked very hard for several days to make the site even more majestic.
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修法 / Practice

幾乎所有人來都會做的是修法。南傳佛教的就在比丘帶領下齊聲念誦巴利文佛經;常常聽到葛印卡老師在禪坐快要結束時念的那一段,感覺很親切。大乘的就用各自語言念大乘佛經或祈願文。藏傳佛教比較多是獨自修行,自己找個角落念經或是做大禮拜,甚至獻曼達。這是四大聖地最適合修行的地方。
This is for sure the best place for doing practice among the 4 holy sites. Numerous pilgrimage groups come everyday doing prayers and group meditation. You can hear groups of Shravaka practitioners chanting sutra in Pali and Mahayana practitioners chanting sutras in their own languages, mostly around the bodhi tree, while the Tibetan and other individual practitioners doing their own practice in every corner of the site.  
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草地上這幾個法國人是同住中華寺的,他們有很大一團來做“佛七”(就是念七日阿彌陀佛),我們來的那天大部分人都回去了,剩下他們幾個。這群法國人都會用中文念佛經,很有趣,他們的八、九歲小孩則成了我們的朋友——因為只有他們有耐心聽我們的破爛法文,哈哈。

101109 Bodhgaya 014晚上開到九點,所以即使天黑了還是有人絡繹不絕的在禮佛、繞塔、做功課。每次離開時都覺得很不捨。人一輩子有幾分鐘是能待在這所有佛陀證道之處呢?!
The site is open till 9pm. Despite it is dark after 6pm, still many people stay in the temple in the evening. It is such a wonderful place where you feel naturally calm and joyful. You rejoice in seeing people making offerings; you rejoice in listening to people chanting sutra and prayers; you rejoice  in watching people doing countless prostrations; you rejoice simply at the fact that you can be in Mahabodhi in that very moment.

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