菩提迦耶(3)充滿加持的充實日子 / A Typical Day in Bodhgaya With Shower of Blessings

早上五點鐘會出門去大覺寺(因為住的地方五點才開門,不然四點就會去了),到了就開始做大禮拜,做到七點回中華寺吃早餐。
5am to Mahabodhi Temple because the Chinese monastery I stay only opens gate at 5am. Then I would start my favorite session of prostrations as it is still dark and cool.
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吃完早餐,七點多回來繼續拜,拜到比較熱了,九點左右,就去繞塔,然後在菩提樹下坐坐。
At 7am I would return the monastery for a quick breakfast, then come back for the 2nd session of prostration until it gets too warm and sunny. The rest of the morning is always spent in circumambulation and sitting by THE bodhi tree.
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人少的時候,還可以在佛像前靜坐。雖然我看到的香客是絡繹不絕,但是據說其實算是人很少的時候。聽說人多的時候是根本不許人坐在裏面,有時人還會多到根本進不來。所以我能在裏面每天坐上半個小時到一個小時,算是很幸運。
Everyday  I would also sit in front of the Buddha statue for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Though I see a constant flow of visitors, it was said that actually I come in a less busy period. Otherwise usually it is not allowed to sit inside the temple.
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外面還有釋迦牟尼佛的腳印,是阿育王做的。因為當年沒有佛像可拜,所以他們就刻了佛的腳印作為佛的象徵來禮敬。斯里蘭卡人非常虔敬,跟印度人一樣很戲劇化,他們會用手觸摸這些聖物(佛像、象徵佛陀走過的石雕蓮花……),然後碰觸自己的心房,一再而再地重覆,如舞蹈一般。看的時候會感覺他們的虔敬心自心中宣泄而出,力量大到只能用此方式表達。不像我雖然會做些磕頭類的動作,其實心裡的虔敬心是一丁點,反而是用身體動作來引發些微的虔敬心。坐在菩提樹旁,看著他們禮佛,對我是充滿喜悅的開示。
I also love watching those Sri Lanka pilgrims doing circumambulation. They would reach out hands to touch sacred objects and then touch their own hearts, over and over, as if the devotion swells from their bodies so much that it is the only way to ease the unbearable devotion. Versus myself, I can only do some mechanic gestures to hopefully invoke a tiny drop of devotion. It was really joyful to watch their dance-like movement.
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大殿前方左側有三個小殿。分別有度母、中殿是不看也罷的外道之物(主殿內地上有一圈遺跡原本也是外道之物,後來被一個佛教徒給偷偷炸了),另一殿內有頂嚴金剛薩埵的佛像。大殿右側則有據聞非常靈驗的度母,因此供養她的花鬘也總是豐盛不斷。
In front of the temple there are 3 small chambers on the left. One with Tara, one with Hinduism linga, and one with buddhas and a Vajrasattva. There is a Tara on the right side of the main temple, which is said to be very powerful hence always adorned with a lot of flower garlands.
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中午十一點多回去洗個澡,十二點在中華寺吃中飯(他們包三餐是加150盧比,一位廣東居士煮的素食,很不錯,是這一帶唯一可吃中國菜的地方,不過不對外開放)。
Then I would go back taking a shower, having lunch at 12pm.

吃完飯後,下午可以去逛逛。菩提迦耶和藍毗尼一樣,有各派寺院,建築風情各不相同,像是佛寺大觀園。我主要都在大覺寺,逛得不多,下圖分別是(1)小巧幽靜的薩迦寺,住宿一天100盧比,很乾淨,但是廁所在外面;(2)立體壇城的精緻不丹寺,住宿分新舊樓,沒記錯的話是300盧比和500盧比;(3)日本人建的石製大佛像;(4)日本寺;(5)另一個日本寺;(5)某寺門上的月亮,這兔子又讓我想到頂果欽哲仁波切。
After lunch, there are plenty of temples around for visit. It is similar to Lumbini where you see architecture of various traditions. I spend most of the time in Mahabodhi so did not visit many other temples, except for: (1) Sakya Monastery – small but quiet, clean rooms for 100 Rupee a day with shared toilet/shower; (2) Bhutan Monastery – exquisite mandala, offering rooms for 300 or 500 Rupees a day; (3)64 ft tall Buddha Statue; (4) Japanese Temple; (5) Another Japanese Temple (which I did not even walk inside); (6) Moon image on the door of a temple. The rabbit reminds me of Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche.
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比較遠的寺廟可以乘三輪車過去,從中華寺到薩迦寺那一帶是15盧比。路上也有婦女在賣菱角。
Rickshaws can be hired to go around. From Chinese Temple to Sakya Monastery  costs 15 Rupee.
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薩迦寺的策嘎多傑堪布是薩迦佛學院第一批的九名學生之一,他的學識淵博,連印度教也很懂。跟我們說了無比多大覺寺內內該看的還有周邊的聖地。八大尸陀林就有三個在附近呢,可惜我們受限於時間就只去了這個狂笑屍林,就在大覺寺入口旁的小路裡,現在遍佈是印度教的linga崇拜物,還不到屍陀林的地方有個石刻的時輪金剛壇城。另外兩個是寒林墳場和 Threatening 墳場。
Tsega Dorje Khenpo told us there are 3 cemeteries around here: Cool Groove, Threatening and Ha Ha Laughing. Due to the time constraint, we only went to Ha Ha Laughing which is close to the Mahabodhi entrance. The cemetery is now covered by Hindu linga though. On the way to the cemetery, there is a stone-carved Kalachakra mandala worth of seeing.
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這裏的牛被塗成五彩繽紛的,非常可愛。選舉過後,路上還出現了駱駝,只見它猛嚼路旁菩提樹的葉子。
The cows here are painted colorfully. One day there was even a camel outside the temple, munching leaves of nearby bodhi trees.
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下午三、四點會再回去做大禮拜,做到傍晚吃完飯,飯後再回大覺寺來轉轉。
At 3-4pm I would do another session of prostration until dusk time, go back for dinner at 6pm and then come back to Mahabodhi for a walk until 8pm.

大覺寺裡連落花都很美。蔣揚噶瑪喇嘛有一天還集了一捧放在他做大禮拜的板子上,也是賞心悅目的供養。
Even the fallen flowers are serene and pretty in Mahabodhi. One day Jamyang Karma Lama gathered a handful placing on his prostration board as cute offerings.  
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晚餐通常是在中華寺吃。除了有一天噶瑪喇嘛帶我們去吃地道的西藏菜。在格魯寺後面有一排小餐館,很有日本小酒館的情調,屋頂像是帳篷一般,裏面只有不到十張桌子,最有名的是饃饃(就是餃子),我的素麵也很好吃。吃的時候環顧一看,整間都是喇嘛,只有我一個在家人~
One day Jamyang Karma Lama brought us to a tiny Tibetan restaurant which reminds me of izakayas in Japan. Momo is their specialty. Judging from the packed crowds there, it must be pretty good. The vegie noodles I had was also delicious. Another interesting thing about this place is that it was full of Tibetan monks except for me being the only lay person there.
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晚上回中華寺和蚊子奮戰。從蚊香、蚊帳、防蚊液都用上了,每兩天增加一種方式,但還是夜夜被咬的滿頭包,所以每天都兩、三點就起床。除了麥肯錫的日子以外,這輩子大概沒有睡得如此少過。
The night is spent in practicing patience with mosquitoes. I started by using coils. After two days of suffering, a nun gave me a net, but still the mosquitoes would come inside the net as it was not big enough. Then on the last two days we found mosquito repellent cream in a shop, yet it only lasts for 2-3 hours per application. So every night I would get 10+ bites and eventually got out of bed at 2-3am! Except for the McKinsey days, I have never slept so little in my life 😉

還好只要想到馬上又可以去大覺寺就很快樂~~就像太陽每天都會升起,菩提迦耶的日子每天都很充實,加持如雨降!
Fortunately as long as I think of being able to return to Mahabodhi Temple in a few hours, I would feel very happy. As the sun always rises, the days in Bodhgaya is always meaningful, fruitful and joyful. The blessings indeed come down like a shower.
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2 Responses to 菩提迦耶(3)充滿加持的充實日子 / A Typical Day in Bodhgaya With Shower of Blessings

  1. 廖婷鈺 says:

    您好 , 請問有薩加寺的聯絡方式嗎?因為好像都找不到耶 , 有確定可以住宿嗎?

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