菩提迦耶(4)靈鷲山和那爛陀大學 / Vulture’s Peak and Nalanda

在菩提迦耶的最後一天,我們包車去看了靈鷲山和那爛陀大學,以及附近的一些景點。
On the last day in Gaya, we went visiting Vulture’s Peak, Nalanda University and some other sights.

靈鷲山 / Vulture’s Peak (Rajgir)

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靈鷲山是佛陀二轉法輪開示大乘教法之處,身為大乘佛教徒是一定要來的。
This is where Shakyamuni disclosed the Mahayana teachings so it is a must-see for Mahayana Buddhists.

我們上山時運氣好的不得了,竟然空無一人。所以就恭恭敬敬的禮拜,然後一起念心經。一到這裏,心情就激動不已。想當年,佛陀在此說法,天人菩薩共俱,何等勝景。
We were super lucky that there was no one when we climbed up. So we did proper prostrations and recited Heart Sutra together, and then made individual wishes. It is yet another very special place you can feel it directly while being there.
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拜完下山途中有兩個巖洞,一個好像是佛陀某大弟子長年禪修之處,大概是目犍連吧,洞裏香客雲集。另一個洞是玄奘説佛陀曾在這裏晾衣之處。
There are two caves on the way up the peak. One is said to be where one of buddha’s chief disciples did long meditation, the other one is said to be where buddha stayed and dried his robe. The first cave was packed when we came down.
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再走一走,路上出現一隻猴精。它是端坐在路旁唷,膝蓋像人一樣呈90度彎曲,腳掌置於地上。都說猴子會搶人東西的,我們很戒懼。蔣揚喇嘛竟然招手示意它過來,頓時我們三個非常沒有義氣的逃之夭夭,嘴裡還驚慌失措地喊著“不要、不要…”。說它是猴精呢,還真是精怪,好整以暇地等著喇嘛從袋子裡拿出一根油條給它,接過後,咬兩口,還回頭看看這些大驚小怪的人。自從泰姬瑪哈陵的導遊説印度的猿猴可以雙手撕裂一條牛後,我就很怕這類動物~
We met a monkey (?) on the way down. The way he sat was just like a human being. I was quite anxious and worried that it may attack us for food or something else.  When Jamyang Karma Lama waved it over, the other three of us ran away immediately…the monkey was actually of very good manner. He waited patiently for Lama to open his bag, find a donut and hand the donut to it. Anyway, not my fav animal in the world.
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從山下爬上靈鷲山說法台要十五分鐘左右,都是階梯,走不動的也有轎子可以坐。山下的小吃店是我們剛到時喝茶吃早點的地方,東西很好吃。
You can hire people carry you up to the peak though the walk is only ~15 minutes. The eatery by the parking lot is quite good. We had tea and samosa there.
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還可以坐30盧比的纜車到旁邊的山頭俯看靈鷲山。吃早餐時隔壁坐著三個拿槍的軍人,上山時又見到他們,這次是抱著槍坐纜車下來。

上去後,只見靈鷲山就在一片茂林谷地中如巨龍般突起。又讓我遙想當年人天菩薩共聚聽法之景,生在當年就好了!
30 Rupee cable car ride can bring you to another peak with a magnificent view overlooking the Vulture Peak. It just reminds me of the typical scene described in Sutra, where gods, arhats and boddhisattvas gathered together to receive Buddha’s teachings. You can really feel the scene when being here.
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那爛陀大學 / Nalanda University

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那爛陀大學當年的重要性就不用說了,是世界文明重鎮,曾有上萬人在此學習。雖然被回教徒一把火燒了,所剩無幾,但是那個規模之大,還是讓人驚歎不已。單是學院部份就有十三座,走到腳都痠了,還有廟堂建築。我想古代印度很多王國可能都沒有那爛陀大。
The first impression was that it is huge. After walking for a while, you feel even stronger about its immense scale. There are 13 monastic schools, plus some more temples. Some old Indian kingdoms may be dwarf in front of Nalanda.

那爛陀是舍利子(就是《心經》中跟觀音菩薩請法的那一位,因為他提問,我們才有《心經》)出生和證道之處,這座塔是舍利子塔。
This is the stupa of Shariputra who was born and attained enlightenment in this area. Without him, we would not have “Heart Sutra”, so prostration to Shariputra!
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大小佛塔基本上都被毀了,僅能遙想當年盛景。這裏是龍樹、寂護、毗如巴、玄奘求學之地!
Most stupas are ruined but you can imagine the glorious days when Nagarjuna, Shantarakshita, and Dharmapala (Virupa) studied and acted as abbots here.
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Avalokiteśvara holding a lotus flower.Nālandā, Bihar, India, 9th century CE.遺跡對面有個不大的博物館,裏面收藏挖掘出的一些佛像,值得一看。有超級秀美的觀世音菩薩像、卡薩巴尼觀音像,還有小小尊的財寶天王,第一次看到非藏傳的財神造像,不過跟藏傳唐卡裡的一模一樣。
The museum across the road is worth visiting. It is not big by any sense, but houses very nice Avalokiteshvara and Kasarpani Avalokiteshvara statues. The small wealth deity statue is also nice. It is my first time seeing Jambhala out of Tibetan arts, yet they are identical. 

其它 / Other

玄奘紀念館 / Xuan Zang Memorial Hall

一片中式風格,有介紹玄奘生平事跡的壁雕。他12歲出家,42歲即完成在那爛陀的求學,並且名震外道,45歲回到中國後開始翻譯佛經至64歲圓寂。偉人就是如此小時了了,一刻不閑,事業浩大。
Xuan Zang came to Nalanda via Afghanistan. He studied so well that he won debating against numerous heresy challengers. Then at the age of 42 he returned to China, bringing back a large amount of sutras and starting translation for an untiring 20 years. Thus he became one of the most important sutra translators  into Chinese. This place depicted his life stories.  
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王舍城竹林精舍 / Bamboo Groove (Veluvana)

曾是佛陀最喜愛的休憩處,現在成了一個大公園。這是釋迦牟尼往年洗澡沐浴之處。
Once one of buddha’s favorite place, but now only a park. This pond is supposed to be where Buddha took showers.
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溫泉 / Hot Spring

在靈鷲山到那爛陀寺之間有個印度教的溫泉。裏面的小孩洗澡超認真,像是要搓下一層皮來一樣。還有印度教的斂財教士,拿著水讓你洗洗手,念些皈依文,就要收你100盧比,那種就不用理。比哈爾省是印度最窮的省份,看街上的大眾交通工具主要還是騾車就知道。
Somewhere between Vulture Peak and Nalanda. An interesting stop by. Just ignore those self-claimed Hindu priests who want to offer you water for washing hands. They are out for money. Bihar is one of the poorest state in India. The still use mule chariot as main transportation tool here.
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關於 bella.chao
a simple wandering being on less beaten tracks in samsara

4 Responses to 菩提迦耶(4)靈鷲山和那爛陀大學 / Vulture’s Peak and Nalanda

  1. ziwei says:

    你好,看到你发表的内容,很受用。我也想打算包车去那烂陀寺和灵鹫山。看到你也是这样做的,就想请教一下,不知道放不方便呢~你们包车当天就能回bodhgaya了吗?还有包车的费用大概是多少~
    谢谢你~

    • bella.chao says:

      可以当日来回的。菩提迦耶满街都是旅行社,但是得讲价,具体金额忘了。假如是在寺院挂单的话,请寺院帮忙可能会比自己讲价好。

      • ziwei says:

        thx.~因为有受骗的经历,所以不敢去问。而且这个时间游客比较少,很难找人一起包车。

      • bella.chao says:

        就我没什么讲价能力的个人情况而言,请住的地方代为安排会比自己好些。我们最后一天去火车站的车子是请中華寺安排的,就比自己旅行社洽询的便宜,而且还是台大车。出门在外,安全第一。希望你一切顺利。

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