印度瑜伽圣地 Holy Place for Yoga in India:Rishikesh

大多数的事情总是和预想中的不同。

以为我的恒河初体验会是在瓦拉纳西那个印度人行葬礼、生老病死一起在恒河水里泡泡的圣地,但因为一直没有提起勇气一个人去瓦拉纳西,於是我的恒河初体验来到了较上游的Rishikesh。

I had always assumed that my first encounter with the River Ganges would take place in Varanasi where all major events of an Indian’s life take place in that river. Nevertheless, due to my lack of courage to travel alone these days, I never made it to Varanasi and instead came to another holy place for Indians, or more precisely for all yogis around the world thanks to the Beatles, Rishikesh.

好处是这里的恒河水清澈洁净,感觉比较像是来到北美落矶山脉或是日本。
Rishikesh is only one and half hours away from Dehra Dun and the water here is very clean with a touch of joyful serenity floating in the air.
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原本订了7点钟的出租车过来参加9点半的漂流,结果出租车不见踪影。临时另外叫了一台,8点多才赶到,恐怖飞车9:15分飙到Rishikesh,城里很多路障,准时9:30找到了城外的漂流旅游店,却是大门深锁未开张。这就是印度吧:“预订”在这里完全是另一个概念。
India being Indian, i.e. nothing works as planned. The taxi which was supposed to come picking us up at 7am never showed up. By the time we got another taxi, it was over 8am already. Since we needed to be at the rafting shop by 9:30, the driver drove like crazy but successfully brought us to the shop just in time. Yet the shop was closed…Guess that booking does not mean a lot here.

折腾了一番,总算店老板还挺有能力,10点钟把船、船导/教练、车子弄齐了可以出发。
Fortunately the shop owner was nearby, and of course he had no idea that we were coming and “had booked through his friend”. At least he was capable enough to quickly assemble a rafting tour for us within half an hour.   
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我邀请了前几天一直辛苦帮我翻譯的喇嘛一起来玩,因为车子还坐的下一人,所以他又带上一位宗萨佛学院的同学一起过来。我没有玩过漂流,他们两人只听我说来“划船”,可能以为是来“泛舟”,於是到了河边后,翻译喇嘛打了退堂鼓,那位同学看起来比他还斯文。就在我以为我的漂流初体验得泡汤时,那位斯文同学鼓动了我的翻译喇嘛,幸好两个人最终还是同意下水了。
The monk I invited had no idea that we would be doing rafting (I forgot how to say rafting in Chinese so simply told him that we would do some boating…) and became really scared when seeing the water. So he decided not to join the trip…good that he took another monk from  Dzongsar College along, so the 2nd monk finally talked my translator friend into the trip.

一开始,只能说我们的船导肯定很想跳进水里。两位喇嘛英文不太灵光,所以他的讲解等于没讲,我常把前后搞错(因为他叫“往前”时,其实是要向后划)。最进入状况的是那位店老板免费邀约共游的疯狂司机,也是初体验,不过开车跟开船可能有些共通处,他是最兴高采烈的一个。
Of course, their English was not good enough to understand the instructor and I was completely green on this, too. We were really a malfunctioned team when setting out. The only person who actually lived up to the expectation was our crazy taxi driver who claimed that he had never done this before either (the shop owner probably needed more people on the boat so offered him a free ride).
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第一个急流是3.5级的,虽然大家都胆战心惊,不过平安度过,无人落船。
After the first rapid (3.5 grade, whatever that means), my translator-friend monk already asked whether it was all done as if he wanted to immediately jump onto the shore.

反而后面船上有个印度人落水,被我们救了起来。我们还捞了划单人艇巡游的救生员(他大概跳下去救那个落水的人,那个印度人落水之后没有翻过来漂,面朝下,起初看起来颇为恐怖),还捞了那船人的拖鞋、两支浆、救生员的小艇。这个经历之后,我们都觉得自己这船还挺厉害的。说是要三个小时16公里的行程,我们一个半小时就完成了。
Though we all felt our hearts jumping into throats, we all managed to stay in the boat. The two boats full of young Indians behind us were not all that lucky. One guy fell into the water, floating with his face down in the water, which looked pretty scary. The patrolling safeguard jumped into the water to help that guy. With good instructions from our guide, we managed to save both the guy and the safeguard in the Ganga,  plus retrieving their paddles, a slipper, and the safeguard’s boat. After this, we all felt pretty confident to carry on the rest of the trip. 16 km tour was finished within 1.5 hour.
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Very happy to see mimosa here with great scents, similar to the product of L’Occitane, but only smells even better 🙂
驚喜的看到沙灘上有兩樹盛開的含羞草(L’Occitane 歐詩丹稱作蠟菊),芳香和歐詩丹產品也很近似,不過還是在陽光下的天然花兒聞起來更勝一籌。

中午跟2009年在IBA上课的同学吃饭,然后她带我们沿河逛了一下。
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在地人带的吃飯地方自然很赞:坐看河景,食物从印度菜、中东菜、意大利面到中式炒面炒饭,应有尽有。
Very happy to see my classmate / neighbor in the dorm in IBA days. She took us to this super cozy cafe right by the river with great view and a good selection of food ranging from Indian, Middle-East, Italian, Chinese to Mexicano. It felt as if I were sitting at those cozy restaurants by the Red Sea at Dahab again!
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过河时可以乘渡轮,单程10卢比,往返15卢比。适逢天气晴朗,船行时凉风轻拂,要不是时间有点赶,真想坐在船上不下来。
The ferry across the Ganga was such a joyful ride. If there were no time restraint, I did feel like staying on the boat for the whole afternoon: great sun, cool breeze and all the calmness.  
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还有一个卖samosa的地方,有特别的香蕉巧克力samosa。好吃!:-p
There is this super popular samosa shop selling chocolate and banana samosa. What a great combo and very yummy! Wish they can be available in other parts of India.
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傍晚5:30有一个瑜伽中心(ashram)每天在恆河邊都有梵咒吟唱,跟司机说我们过去看看后,6点打道回府。
Parmarth Niketan Ashram has been holding a mantra chanting session at 17:30 every day by Ganges. Our plan was to have a quick look and then return. 
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那个瑜伽中心(Parmarth Niketan)环境好的像是西班牙南部的王宫。他们正好在举办国际瑜伽节(为期一周,邀请很多不同地方的瑜伽老师过来,只收60美金就可以体验各种流派,像是定时吃到饱的自助餐),适逢今天请到了这州的首要部长过来,於是大家致辞来、致辞去,到了6:20都还没有例行的表演。不过致辞当中这些重量级的瑜伽大师也会吟唱一段,也算是领略了梵唱,而且说不定加持力更大^_^。
Not sure this is luck or not, but we ran into the end of the International Yoga Festival where they hosted many yoga teachers - both heavy-weight Indian masters and teachers from western countries. The chief minister of the Uttarakhand state came to make some remarks and then there were continuing speeches floating. So by the time we really had to leave, the boys had not started their routine performance. Fortunately we still got some taste of the Sanskrit chanting as these yoga masters tend to chant a bit during their talks.  
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这里的空气也很特别,照相时会有光点。里面不像哦寺的会有轮辐般的图案,就是简单的一个光圈,照太阳时也是一轮超级大光圈。
The air is also special here. Just like at Ngor Monastery, there would be light spheres appearing in the photos. The ones at Ngor would have some symmetrical graphics within the sphere while the ones here are just plain dots and the setting sun became a huge light ball in the picture. Rishikesh is after all a holy place.
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很喜欢这个地方,虽然西方游客众多,但感觉很安全,可以自在走来走去;有山有水,气候温和。有空要再过来住上几天。
This is one of the few places I would like to come back and spend some time. With the mountain, forest, river and cozy foreigner-friendly town, taking a yoga retreat here would be really nice.

廣告

關於 bella.chao
a simple wandering being on less beaten tracks in samsara

2 Responses to 印度瑜伽圣地 Holy Place for Yoga in India:Rishikesh

  1. cora says:

    通常练瑜珈的人可能会把那些照片里的光点称作‘能量球’

    • bella.chao says:

      呵呵,我第一次看到這些光點是在蒙古,那時還跟朋友說,這邊明明很空曠就兩座廟,怎麽空氣塵粒這麼大會反光…現在想來是那時寶金剛仁波切去那個蒙古舊都皇家寺廟聚落群時的特別能量場吧

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