帕平聖地:金剛瑜伽母與揚列雪的加持 Sacred Places In Pharping

111004 Pharping 049帕平的塔立寺 Tarig Monastery at Pharping, Nepal

今天臨時決定出廟外走走,塔立寺的地點超級方便,廟外順時鐘繞行一圈,正好把帕平的聖地全部朝拜一遍。

Tarig Monastery’s location is great. Taking a circumambulation around the monastery happens to cover all the sacred sites at Pharping.  

自生綠度母像 Self-arising Tara Image

首先,塔立寺白塔裏有個小的自生度母像,說是建廟時地下挖到的,上一世塔立仁波切上了顔色。

In the Tarig Gompa, there is one self-arising Tara image which they discovered underground when building the temple, colored by the previous Tarig Rinpoche, and now kept inside the main stupa.

然後廟隔壁就是有象頭財神和綠度母的廟。那尊綠度母真的感覺比三年前見到時還清楚,連上方一尊度母都顯然許多,特別是雙手結印的部分。

Next to the Tarig Monastery is a monastery with self-arising images of Ganesh and Taras.

Pharping 002
2007

111004 Pharping 104                            2011

2007年第一次來的時候,人家指主尊左上方那第二尊度母,我還看不太出來,覺得這些人迷信,穿鑿附會。現在可能無明輕了一點,看的很真切,特別是雙手結印的部分。但是人家說這第二尊旁邊還有很多小的21度母,我是一點看不出來,也許過三年再來,就會顯現的更清楚。

I do feel the Tara becomes even clearer than 4 years ago. Also the 2nd Tara on top of her which I could not recognize in the last time, can now be effortlessly seen.

蓮師的阿修羅洞 Padmasambhava’s Asura Cave

再往上走,就在塔立寺正上方是蓮師修行的阿修羅洞。洞門口有個蓮師手印。

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Further up the hill, right on top of the Tarig Monastery is the Asura Cave where Guru Rinpoche practiced and accomplished Kilaya. The cave is not big and the hand print at the entrance, said to belonged to Padmasambhava remains intriguing.

薩迦法王這次在加拿大傳普巴時說到,揚達嘿汝嘎(真實意)和喜金剛l非常類似,分別是舊派、新派主悉地的最重要本尊,據說兩尊連法相都有很多相近之處。搞不清楚阿修羅是修揚達還是普巴的,所以每次在塔立寺繞塔時,見到頭上的阿修羅洞,就會想說揚達嘿汝嘎/喜金剛/普巴一起來加持了 🙂

阿修羅洞再往上的山頂有一小片地方是大家掛風馬旗的地方。

帕平金剛瑜伽母廟 Pharping Vajrayogini Temple

從阿修羅洞下來,到了塔立寺左上方的金剛瑜伽母廟。

Coming down from the Asura Cave, we reached THE Vajrayogini Temple.

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這大概是全世界最神聖的金剛瑜伽母聖地了。那洛巴的那洛卡雀空行法就是只秘密傳給了尼泊爾人龐亭巴兄弟,其他弟子據說是連這個法的名字都沒聽過。後來這金剛瑜伽母法傳到西藏梅譯師(藏文的勝樂續有兩個版本,一個是瑪爾巴譯的,一個就是這位梅譯師譯的)那裡,再進了薩迦派,成為十三金法中最首要的紅尊修法。後來從薩迦傳到了格魯,在格魯也是很多上師的主要修持。

Naropa transmitted this vajrayogini practice only to two Nepalese – the Pangting brotheres. It’s believed that Pharping is where they lived and attained accomplishment. 

薩迦法王這次傳阿龐伏藏師紅度母法時把佛法概要全都講了一遍,從皈依、發心……。有一天說到各本尊時,講到金剛瑜伽母,莞爾總結了一句:“嗯,印度八十四大成就者幾乎全都是修金剛瑜伽母得成就的……”。

所以這龐庭兄弟據說就是在帕平這裏的人,這廟就是金剛瑜伽母親身顯現的地方。

今天是個特別日子,看廟的尼泊爾人做薈供,帶我去的喇嘛説他也是第一次見到。蠻有趣,廟祝拿了好幾盤供品,進去佛龕內室,唸一唸,然後給佛像前小桌上加添食物,唸一唸,又給佛像戴花,這邊一朵、那邊一朵、這邊一朵……

Today is some sort of special day. The priest in charge of the temple did a special offering and prayer to the yogini statue. He would offer food and flowers to the statue. The way he offered flowers is not like we Chinese just offer a bundle in front of the statue, but actually adorn the statue with individual flowers one-by-one. At first I found it a bit funny, but after a while it did feel somehow divine.  

然後喇嘛幫我們跟廟祝請求看廟裡的寶貝,廟祝很警戒,問説我跟另一位澳洲師兄是哪裡來的(他的禁忌是回教徒)。後來又覺得人很多,似乎有點不願意——除了我們一行三人,還有一位老喇嘛是一開始就在佛像前靜坐的,後來等一團香客走了,又上來了兩位喇嘛,就成了六個人。

然後廟祝就讓他兒子(超帥的年輕人,看廟的這一家人個個都很貌美)下去把殿門給關了,於是後來的人都只能在院子裏打轉。然後我們圍在佛龕前,他進去做了一個祈請,期間還手指沾水往外灑了兩次,一定是有內功的,水滴打在臉上火辣辣的痛。

給我們看完寶貝後,就伸手在佛像桌子下面地上的一堆蔬果中掏。

其實我剛到二樓廟堂,看到那佛像下面放了一小堆看來不甚新鮮的東西,地上還四散著穀類、花,就覺得他們怎麽都不打掃乾淨,佛像下一堆“垃圾”。原來是我的不淨觀,那估計是什麽經過佛像特別加持的寶貝。

廟祝掏了一陣,略過了蘿蔔(不知道怎麽有人會把蘿蔔當水果供,是那種一看就自家長的,只有兩根拇指粗,還帶著要爛不爛的蘿蔔葉),小的水果也不要,然後拿了一棵尼泊爾土產的那種褐色小梨子,上面也是帶著枝葉的。

廟祝爬出佛室(抱歉,應該說是跨出…但是那個佛室小的像個山洞,又堆了一地各式各樣的東西,所以比較像是爬出來),很認真的拿著那個帶著枝葉的梨子,扯下一小片葉子,唸唸有詞的,然後放在喇嘛頭頂,依次給每個人加持。輪到我時,他扯了特別大一段枝葉,不止放在我頭上,還給我塞進我的髮髻裏……最後,全部搞完,他看著手上那顆看來有一處爛掉的梨子,眼光掃過我們一群人,然後把那顆梨子給了我。

這算是金剛瑜伽母給我的特別加持吧。廟祝跟我笑了幾次,他老婆出來也一直跟我微笑。

Then the priest closed the temple, gave us and three other monks who happened to be in the shrine room a special blessing. When he sprinkled water to us from a distance, my face actually felt hurt with the water drops! And then he picked a seemingly rotten pear on the ground beneath the Vajrayogini statue, torn off the pear leaves and placed them on our head as blessings. When he finished, he bestowed me that pear.

An of course, it was all due to my impure perception. The pear was not rotten at all. It just looked not so perfect as the supermarket fruits, must belong to the heirloom genre, hence a really special blessing from the holy land.

後來發現那個梨子其實沒有爛,是很新鮮的梨子,只是表皮上有一處長的不均勻的凹陷,是原生種的天然形成。

蓮師聖地揚列雪岩洞 Yanglesho Cave

接著是走過市場,到蓮師和釋迦德薇修持揚達嘿汝嘎(真實意)成就的揚列雪岩洞。

Then we walked by the Pharping market to visit the Yanglesho Cave, another  Guru Rinpoche meditation cave. Between this one and Asura Cave, not sure which one is for Yangdak Heruka (Vishuddha Mind) and which one is for Vajrakilaya though.

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通常洞門是關著,不讓人進的。今天很特別的開放,進去待了一會兒。

Usually the cave is locked but today is really special. It is open for public worshiping. So I fortunately stayed inside for a short while. 

一直沒搞明白藏曆初八護法日為何尼泊爾人也大肆慶祝,到了下午看見商店全都關門了,才知道,原來今天是尼泊爾的達賽節。不過因為是達賽,所以喇嘛說不帶我們去附近的印度廟,因為今天也是印度教徒血祭、獻活牲的日子。阿彌陀佛。

只能說佛菩薩很庇佑,讓我撞在今天去轉山。

Only toward the end of the day, we finally realized today is Dasai, the Nepalese New Year-like festival, so that it is indeed an auspicious day to visit these sites. To the contrary, if you happen to visit Hindu sites on this day, it would be a very bloody scene  as today is the day they sacrifice live animals in Hindu temples…OM MANI PADME HUM.

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