帕平的日子 / My Days In Pharping

初來乍到 Arrival

111004 Pharping 163昆蟲世界。第一晚,見到了飛蛾、蜘蛛,毯子上有一條5公分長的蜈蚣(只能請它跟毛毯睡另一張床,害我只能睡睡袋),台灣那種超級大蟑螂,還有無數豆子大小的小蟑螂…

最多的是蟑螂大便,一粒一粒小小的,滿布桌子、地板、廁所裏。原來蟑螂大便跟小粒甘露丸長得還真像。

So many cockroaches here! Big and small. I was so worried about them coming over so the first night was spent with my body completely inside the sleeping bag.

還好在IBA認識一位直貢噶舉的新加坡師兄,他在印度待了一陣子,然後來尼泊爾又待了一陣子。他説他之前住的幾個地方都有老鼠,睡覺時怕老鼠會爬到臉上,所以都是戴著帽子睡覺,帽子拉到眼睛,被子拉過鼻子…感謝他的經歷分享,我只要想到他的故事,就會覺得自己過得還算不錯了。

過兩天,跟磊謝喇嘛說到我的蟑螂室友群,他説這些室友一定是跟我有很深的緣分,才會住在一起。之後想想也是沒錯,後來看到蟑螂就像是看到老朋友,只希望它們這兩家人早日投生善道。

Good that L just told me about his experience in the retreat places for the past 2-3 years, where he had to sleep with a hat covering his eyes and sleeping bag covering his nose so that the mouse do not tread on his face. Compared to that, my place is really not too bad.

Later, Lama Lekshey said my cockroach roommates and I must have deep karmic links. Indeed, thinking in that way, suddenly they don’t look that disgusting. Now I will pray for them that, may you reborn in higher realms…

打掃 Cleaning

第二天,雖然大雨滂沱而下,拉著喇嘛帶我去買些抹布之類的清潔用品。

擦過一遍後,覺得好多了。

其實,絕大部分還是心裡因素。沒有吸塵器,也掃不了多乾淨。差別只是自己摸過一圈,知道怎麽掃也就這樣。床上灑上澳洲的尤加利精油,弄得香香的,突然也覺得,這地兒就是自己暫時的家了。

The trick is that as long as you clean the room by yourself, no matter how unchanging the place seems, psychologically you feel much better. Maybe this can be counted as special blessings from holy places.

It would even help further, if you happen to carry some eucalyptus oil and sprinkle some over the bed. This brings you instantly to the god realm. 

怕狗 Dog

尼泊爾的狗通常是人畜無害,這可能也是為什麼我喜歡尼泊爾遠勝於印度的原因。博達納雖然滿街都是狗,但是從來不打擾人。

111011 Pharping 030塔立寺的狗可能因為是藏獒血統的,所以很保護自家人,對外人則不好說。所以他們都是傍晚等香客全都離開之後,差不多六點多,把大門關上,然後把狗放出來。到了早上,就把狗關回籠子裡。

那個早,還真是早。管狗的老先生,早上三點多就聽他在轉經繞塔——轉經輪中有一個很大的、四人合抱的轉經筒,轉到一定速度時,會有鈴聲,所以聽到鈴聲就知道有人在轉經。

不過我最好奇的是他是怎麽把狗給弄回去籠子裏的。喇嘛説偶爾是用餅乾利誘。不過依我的經驗,我們家小狗騙一次、兩次有可能,很快就會等你走到關不了他的地方,才衝去叼餅乾。喇嘛説是我們家小狗聰明,我倒覺得他也不可能比藏獒聰明,可能藏獒就是聽話,只要主人說的話,不想做也會去做。

One big reason why I enjoy life here so much is that they lock the dog at day time 🙂 so that I do not need to worry about the dogs at all. All I need to do is to make sure I get back to my room before they release the dog in the evening!

Though I tried to bribe them with some cookies, I rather not try my luck by walking around while they are out.

小鳥鄰居 Neighbor

111004 Pharping 025喇嘛們真的是對一切眾生都很有慈心。

我的房門口旁放了一個空紙箱,裏面有些鳥糞,納悶…?只見房門口電線集線器上,有個鳥巢。

一般人家裡,早就把鳥巢給掀了吧。喇嘛們卻是任其自在住下。不過鳥兒一家人大小便會把走廊弄髒,所以下面放了一個紙箱,喇嘛說是“小鳥的廁所”……

這一窩鳥兒想必是年代久遠的老住戶,不知哪年重新油漆時,鳥巢也順便漆了,完全是當廟裡的一份子看待。

Monks are really kind to all sentient beings.

There is this bird nest by my door. This family must have lived here for a long time. The nest even got painted together with the other walls!

吃的好 Meal

這個環境非常簡單的地方,卻有個很好的廚子,還會講中文唷~  

我到哪裡都很有口福,真不知道前輩子做了什麽好事。這位很帥的廚師(大概就是中年更為壯碩的蒲巴甲一型)刀工一流,看那切菜就知道是專業訓練出來的,炒菜水平比博達納那些中國餐廳都好。

看那相貌就覺得是康巴漢子,一問之下,果然沒錯,新都橋出來的。怪不得會用豆瓣醬炒菜!

I was thinking maybe I will have to live with tsampa for a while, but there is this excellent cook for such a simple place.

He prepare breakfast, lunch and dinner and also fill the thermo bottles with tea and hot water. 111011 Pharping 012

>>某天跟閉關的喇嘛要了兩包尼泊爾著名的YY泡麵,煮來當早餐吃。這是我在物資缺乏的慕斯唐常吃的食物。後來去印度時發現,真的就像大家說的,印度製造的YY就沒有那麽好吃。看那後面的熱水壺,外殼都爛了,他們還在用~~>>

>>YY Instant Noodle used to be my main diet at Upper Mustang. One day a retreatant monk shared a pack with me as breakfast. Indeed as everybody said, YY manufactured in India does not taste as good as the Nepales made ones. Note the thermo bottle behind – half of the outer layer was gone but they are still using it… >>

極其照顧我的喇嘛 Monks

聽列喇嘛是負責照顧我的人。他真的是一個很好又很勤奮的人。

我看到的時候,他總是在工作。早上餵狗,開大門前把狗弄進籠子裏……開殿供水,有香客來要接待他們,農地裏的豆子、玉蜀黍要曬(塔立仁波切有一塊地本來是要拿來蓋佛學院的,還沒蓋,尼泊爾規定地不能荒在那裡,所以他們還得請人去耕種,不過據說是入不敷出),清潔給香客燈供的燈(要把那油油的燈擦乾淨可不是件易事),幫在閉關的人買東西,修剪花木,再不然就是拿個拖把、掃把在清潔哪個殿,晚上餵狗,收拾水供等……這些還只是我看得到的部分。

111011 Pharping 022<<玉米是他們田裏種的,有不同顔色,還有一根就有五種色彩的。

<<Corns from the monastery field in various colors, even 5 colors within one.

然後因為我在這裡,他得張羅我的奇怪需求。最讓人感動的是,他總是進一步很體貼的為人設想:怕我洗衣服水桶不夠用,主動把自己的水桶放到我的浴室;想說我可能喜歡餅干,出門買東西時幫我帶些回來;覺得老外可能都愛喝咖啡,就拿些三合一咖啡來;知道我怕狗,就叫我早點去吃晚飯,或是自告奮勇幫我送來……

他是在西藏念到小學五年級,後來在印度繼續念書,然後到拉達克當了很多年的英語教師,因為熱愛薩迦班智達的著作,所以兩年前才在塔立寺出家。不過他那慈藹良善穩重的舉止,實在看不出是才出家不久的人。

他還有顆自然喜樂之心。我們下大雨出門時,他看到沿著馬路泊泊留下的層層如浪雨水,會很高興的指著説:妳看,像瀑布!掃地時,看到青蛙,也會很高興的叫我看,然後把那大小兩隻青蛙送到草叢裡。在他身邊,人也自然變的簡單快樂。

There are only 10 monks here: a few to take care of the places, a few in short retreat, a few in life-long retreat.

As the property is pretty big, the monk taking care of me needs to do a lot everyday – from feeding the dogs, cleaning the shrine room, making water offering/sang offering, cleaning the butter lamp, taking care of the garden, doing various shopping for retreatants, to attending the tourists (apparently the Nepalese tourist guides are not very professional and told weird things to tourists, so he ended up doing the tour guide work in order to share proper info on buddhism). These are only the few things I can see. Yet he still manages to take great care of me and other visitors. Thank you, Tinley Lama!! 

111004 Pharping 062

111004 Pharping 030<<常常來玩的附近小孩子。

<<Neighboring kids coming almost everyday

>>廚子的女兒,煨桑就是用花園裏的柏樹葉子。>>

>>3 years-old daughter of the cook. She can make friends with everybody. >>

平靜自在的日子 My Days

這邊的日子很規律。早上很早就有人在轉經、做早課。廚子會烙好一籃子的餠做早飯,大家六、七點時,自己去廚房吃。

中午十一點半開飯,有些人在廚房吃,有些人是拿回房間吃。

傍晚或吃完飯時,大家會繞塔,出來走動一下。晚上六點半開飯,晚飯一定是麵。

早上新殿有喇嘛修綠度母,之後會陸續有觀光客(特別多意大利人)和香客去佛塔的廟殿朝拜。下午會有一位喇嘛在老殿修護法。

因為一直有人在修法,所以你怎麽搖鈴打鼓都沒關係,不怕吵到別人。反而是下午那座要結束時,大家都在搖鈴打鼓,就很有“吾道不孤”的感覺。

供食子有供食子的地方,餵小鳥有餵小鳥的地方,不像在城裡,要找個地方把供品供掉,還得偷偷摸摸得在公園綠地找個地方放。

那些在這裏做終生閉關的喇嘛,實在太有福報了。他們的一舉一動都是愉悅詳和,在他們身邊就會覺得很清淨,很舒服。

111004 Pharping 048

<<宗薩佛學院的一位堪布在這裡閉關,某天他做火供,其它喇嘛來幫忙,我來看熱鬧……

<< A Khenpo from Dzongsar College has been doing retreat here. One day he was doing a fire puja with help from other monks, while the cook’s daughter, Pasang, and I playing around.

111004 Pharping 150藏曆初十,某些喇嘛在大殿做薈供,我又來看熱鬧……外加分供品吃。這幾位上午修,還有幾位自己下午在房間修,大家都給我很多供品。吃了一個星期都吃不完。>>

Some lamas did a Tsog offering together on the 10th day of Tibetan calendar. Pasang and I played around again. Some monks also did their individual tsog in the afternoon. All the food they shared with me later was so much so that I can’t finish even after a week! >>

在寺院裏,真的是很自然就沒有什麼惡念產生,也沒有空間造什麽惡行,了不起就是巴桑(廚子女兒)打我一掌,我推她一下……我的日子就在早餐、中餐、散布,和巴桑玩玩,以及看熱鬧中很快的度過了。

In short, my days in Pharping passed by very quickly in breakfast, lunch, taking photos, walking around, playing with Pasang, observing kids, visitors and monks……life is very simple and content here.  And somehow, you don’t generate as much nonvirtuous thoughts/deeds in an effortless way here. 

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