大吉嶺的車資是這樣宰外地人的~ Taxi Fare Bargaining In Darjeeling Area

111109 Ghoom and Darjeeling 001話說某日堪布在寺廟有任務,於是仁波切帶著新加坡的師兄和我坐計程車去固姆的薩迦咕汝寺。我們去詢價的還是公立的計程車站點唷。

誰知,他們一看到我們一幫外國人樣的,馬上就開了一個500盧比的天價。

還好仁波切在這裏待過一陣子的,講到了300盧比,包了一台車,帶我們6人上去。

仁波切説他和師兄擠在前座,我和另外三位師姊擠後座。但是我實在不好意思讓仁波切這樣擠著坐,就鑽到行李廂,坐在備胎上,讓仁波切獨自坐前座,其他人坐後座。

As everything else in India, taxi fare comes at a wide range, subject to your negotiation skills.

One day we were 6 people going from Darjeeling downtown to the Sakya Guru Monastery at Ghoom. Rinpoche brought us to a public taxi booth. Seeing us obviously as foreigners, immediately they asked for 500 Rupees.

Rinpoche negotiated the price drastically down to 300 Rupees. Though Rinpoche said the front seat can be seated with two persons, we all wanted him to sit comfortably. So Rinpoche sat in the front seat, the four Singaporeans squeezed in the middle row while I sat on the spare tire at the luggage space.

***

又一日,只有我和仁波切去廟裡,我們在路上召車時,遇見兩位藏族老太太,是寺廟委員會的。這些寺廟委員的老人家都是超級健康勇猛的,就見她們飛步攔了一台車,也是包車,我們四人上山。猜是多少錢?

Another day, only 2 of us were going to the monastery. We went down to the main road towards Ghoom and met these 2 local old ladies who are committee members of the monastery.

These Tibetan seniors active in the community are always very fit. They quickly went on to hail a taxi. And the price they negotiated was a mere 100 Rupees!

只要100元!

教訓就是降價得往20%砍,講到一半大概差不多。

***

最後一日,就剩我一人要去廟裏。獨自上街去攔不是包車的計程車,打聽過了,當地人車資是付15元,上車前跟司機作確認,他倒也沒有要亂收我錢。

不過,15元一人的車子,也是讓我開了眼界。

On the last day, only myself went to the Ghoom Monastery so I tried the shared taxi. The fare was only 15 Rupees per head for this pleasant 20 minute journey.

上車時,前座就有兩名乘客,我和另外兩位大嬸在中間的座位。果然就像仁波切說的,這裏前排都可以坐兩人的。

後來沿路不斷有人上車,先是擠在我這排,然後是擠在前座——也就是說,連司機,前座共有四個人!那個司機開車只能控制右半邊的方向盤,我都不知道他是怎麽打檔的——蜿蜒山路上全都用的是手排車呀~111109 Darjeeling Ghoom 004

Though they only charge 15 Rupees per person, the driver was actually very skillful in squeezing so many passengers inside his car.

As Rinpoche said, the front seat can indeed accommodate 2 passengers. In my ride, not only 2 passengers, but 3 passengers in the front seat plus the driver!

Hence it was really an eye opening experience to see this driver driving with only half of the steering wheel!

My only question was how he managed to shift the gear. Since it’s hill station with all those winding roads, frequent changing gear with a manual transmission car is inevitable…

這個司機一定是模範員工。行李廂的後排兩邊有兩個直排的椅子,塞了4個人進來,第5人上車時,其中一個想要爬到車頂上,司機還不准他上去。最終那4個人的位子,硬是擠了6個人。於是前排4人,中排4人,行李廂6人,一部吉普車裏塞了14人,要是還有人要上車,估計司機會讓他們坐車頂,大概可以塞上20人吧!

In the end, we had 4 people in the front row, 4 people in the middle row, and 6 people in the back seats within one jeep. Actually one guy in the back wanted to climb on the car top to sit more comfortably but got stopped by the driver. If more people needed a ride, the driver can probably take up to 20 people within his car!

***

從大吉嶺到卡林邦(噶倫堡)的吉普車更絕了。一樣是前排4人,中排4人,後排較小,也是4人,車頂則是行李。行到半路又加上1人,但是車頂滿了,怎麽辦呢?

就見一個人“掛”在車後,手裡抓著車頂的行李架,腳踩外掛備胎車沿,在蜿蜒的山路上,一路下至卡林邦。

The shared Jeep ride from Darjeeling to Kalimpong is even more amazing. As more people joined the ride along the way, in the end, there were 4 people in the front row, four people in the middle row, and 4 people in the last row – completely packed! When the last person came, as the car was full and even the car-top was occupied by luggage,  this person, the 12th passenger, can only grab the car-top rack and stand on the spare tire, literally hanging all the way down to Kalimpong.
111111 Darjeeling to Kalimpong 004
111111 Darjeeling to Kalimpong 005

***

到了卡林邦,加拿大師兄説,他也坐過那種4人前排的,很不幸的就坐在司機旁邊。於是他得兩腳打開,讓司機操控兩腿間的排擋。

更慘的是,離合器就在他腳下,司機踩離合器時,常常連他的腳一起踩~~

In Kaimpong, someone from Canada said he once sat by the driver in this kind of situation. So he had to split his leg wide open so that the driver can shift the gear inbetween his legs!

And the worst part is when the driver had to press the crutch, often his foot was troden badly altogether.

明智的做法就是買票時買前排的座位,因為前排比較不顛簸。2個人坐車的話就買3張票,這樣就可以坐的舒服一些。大吉嶺到卡林邦開了兩個半小時,因為中間有休息,票價我不知道,應該不到100盧比。卡林邦到錫金甘托克的車程是3個小時,票價只要100盧比,相較於動輒一千五、一千八元的包車費用,確實是非常經濟實惠的選擇。 🙂

Nevertheless, shared taxi/jeep is still an economical way to travel around this area. Compared to easily 1500 Rupees-2000 Rupees to hire a car by yourself, shared-ride fare for Darjeeling-Kalimpong (2 1/2 hour) costs less than 100 and Kalimpong-Gangtok (3 hour) only 100 Rupees. Buying an extra front-seat ticket would be the best for a comfortable travel.

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a simple wandering being on less beaten tracks in samsara

2 Responses to 大吉嶺的車資是這樣宰外地人的~ Taxi Fare Bargaining In Darjeeling Area

  1. naomi1101 says:

    how come u miss to post our nepal bus photo

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