曼谷三天兩夜 “吃-喝-逛-廟" 行 Dining, Shopping and Temple-Seeing in Bangkok

吃吃喝喝 Dining

120112 Bangkok 003雖然被朋友恥笑我打“飛的”到泰國養病,不過沒怎麽玩樂的曼谷行還是一趟開開心心的行程。主要是跟對人去,所以不用大 腦,懶散過日子,依然看了不少東西。

首先是朋友跟我一樣好吃,一下飛機,行李往酒店一扔,就直奔她念念不忘的Spring & Summer。       

泰航的上海空中廚房完全秉承東航的水準,飛機上的那個飯,魚肉我吃了一口就吐出來,滿是腥氣。一天沒怎麽吃,到下午四點多,等我們終於找到那個咖啡館兼餐廳時,我已經快餓暈了。

Spring & Summer is a Cafe/Restaurant which my friend kept praising about their dessert. Therefore, we headed there right after leaving the luggage in hotel.  Unfortunately they only serve meals after 6pm so my first meal for the day is Chocholate Pistachio Cake with Pistachio Ice Cream. Indeed very good.

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朋友受到重大打擊,因為他們晚上六點才開始供正餐,但是甜點對我已經綽綽有餘。有點怪,睽違二十年後,在曼谷的第一餐是巧克力開心果蛋糕和開心果冰淇淋——果然是有水準,蛋糕上的巧克力蛋白酥入口即化,輕盈的不得了,是我近年吃到最好的。再配上一杯薄荷巧克力冰沙……唉,對於自己這麽好吃,也實在很無可奈何。

然後朋友棄而不捨的發揮她死纏爛打的功夫,問到第三遍後,侍者在五點十五分拿起電話詢問廚房,有沒有可能給我們煮晚餐。廚師也被我們感動了,於是我們兩個明明六點還要去會合一團人吃海鮮大餐的人,又興高采烈的點起餐來。

120111 Bangkok 009兩道菜都沒讓我們失望。一道輕炸腐皮卷裹泰式香茅調味的軟殼蟹;一道是冬陰功起司玉米片,乍看像是不起眼的小披薩,但是油炸的玉米片很不一般,一層層的薄脆,上面是溶化的起司,裹著冬陰功滋味的蝦肉塊……只能讚歎發明這道菜的廚師功力。

Then my friend repeated asking whether it’s possible to serve dinner (as we have another dinner appointment with her colleagues). Finally at 17:15, the kitchen kindly allowed as to order food. For  sure my favorite food throughout the 3 days stay in Bangkok: Tom Yum Goong Cheese Nachos and Deep-Fried Soft-shell Crab in Soy Wrap with Thai Seasoning. Amazing combination and extremely tasty. I am not a nachos fan at all, but this is for sure the best nachos I’ve ever had.

120111 Bangkok 011然後再趕赴一間超大的海鮮餐廳,估計是給觀光客吃的。食客得推著超市的那種推車去選購食材,結帳,再拿到烹調部門烹調。反正讓我去挑蝦買蟹、決定要宰哪一隻是沒可能的,只央求給我一道龍須菜,其他讓專家解決,就此蹭了一頓海鮮大餐。

The group dinner was at  a super big seafood restaurant. The diners need to choose their own materials with a cart and then send the materials to the cooking department. Picking which crab should be on my table is not my cup of tea so happily let others to do the tough job and simply enjoyed whatever came on the table. 

因為吃太飽,九點多還去購物商場壓馬路。泰式家居用品看著都不錯。不小心逛到Emporium的食品部門,看到這個花花綠綠的蛋糕專櫃,有點咂舌——雖然美人魚和Nimo都很可愛,但這些全都是白糖做的吧,讓人一點食欲也沒有,不知小朋友吃Nimo時是如何作想。
After all the food, we decided to take a walk and came across these colorful cakes. Don’t think they would be tasty but can see how the kids would love them. Just wonder what the kids would feel when they need to slice the mermaid or Nimo?
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隔天一大早去看廟,中午吃了某大商場的美食樓層,食物有一定的品質,好處是把泰式甜品一網打盡,逛逛街後又加了一個北海道冰淇淋做飯後甜點。

120112 Bangkok 194晚上在旅館旁邊的夜市,憑直覺挑了一家街邊小店,真是挑對了。雖然門口和其他店一樣都有坐著老外,但是進門後都是本地人在吃。炒了一盤空心菜、一盤炒麵,點了經過攤子時看到的鹵雞爪。真是沒想到會在泰國啃雞爪,調味完全是中式的,燉了不知多久,一吸就骨肉分離,純粹的膠原蛋白。 

吃完晚餐出來,原先想買水果的攤子已經收掉了,還好找到一個果汁攤,看著她現切了一個芒果,就著些冰塊打成冰沙,完全沒有加糖、濃稠劑之類的添加物,但是又香又濃,比任何瓶裝、罐裝的都好吃。於是我下定決心,在泰國要以水果為主食~

The 2nd day I tried food court at gigantic shopping mall for lunch and night market for dinner. All very good. Especially the fresh mango smoothie was simply amazing – just ice cubes and one whole mango!

120113 Bangkok 003第三天下午就得離開,雖然想著去看玉佛,但是最終懶散獲得勝利。睡醒時,旅館早餐已經快收攤,下樓狂吃了一堆木瓜和波羅蜜,接著上樓洗澡、整理行李,也就中午了。

朋友開完她的公司年會——想當年,要是公司開這種會,我就得幫著編明年的計劃,現在搖身一變假扮家眷,只負責玩,不用開什麼一本正經的會,心裡只有一個爽字~ 於是在曼谷的最後一餐,是在去機場前衝去Gaysor的Thann Cafe。這家店的裝潢真是沒話說,菜單倒是有點怪,以熏鴨胸肉和羊肉為主,有別於一般泰式餐廳的海鮮、雞、豬,估計是特意設計的。

After that mango smoothie, I decided that fruit should be the focus of my diet in Thailand. Therefore, the 3rd day started with a lot of papaya and jackfruit in the hotel. Then we quickly went to Thann Cafe before leaving for the airport.  Smoked duck and lamb are the main items on menu, not as impressive as Spring & Summer but still very good for a light meal.
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逛街 Shopping

這是個奇怪的緣分。每天都有零售界的專業人士帶我逛街。雖然原本對那些叫我來泰國逛街的建議有點嗤之以鼻——又累又傷荷包,完全沒有誘因,但是有這些專業人士相伴,像看戲一樣,還蠻好玩的。

除了會去看看本地潮牌之外,最有趣的是走著走著,他們就會停在商場某處照相“啊,這個設計的太好了”“這個紙袋好”…然後又會馬上很現實的説“不過這個(皺褶紙製裝飾)在中國的防火肯定過不了”再不然就是“但是這個成本太高了…”

對於從事一個行業二十年還熱情不減的人,必須給予很高的敬意。
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有名的四面佛周邊現在完全都是這些大型購物商場了,和二十年一樣香客不斷,每次經過都有人在跳舞、還願。

Though I am not very into shopping, window shopping with retail experts was very fun. On top of checking out some very “in”local brands, the real fun is to watch them suddenly drawn to a corner of the mall and exclaiming “wow, this design is really cool”…ranging from a ceiling display, a shop bag, to a toilet. Then the following practical remarks also provide a lot of learning opportunity, e.g., “this materials would never pass fire protection regulation in China”or “this would be too costly……”

In general, Thai people are better in design than the pragmatic Chinese. It is indeed pleasant to simply walk around those huge malls especially among local brands.

Also nice to see they preserve that corner in the busy intersection for the famous Erawan Shrine although the Brahma statue apparently is not the one I saw 20 years ago. Nothing is permanent, even the Brahma himself, I guess. 

得獎設計師的廟 Temple Designed by Award Winning Architect

會跑來曼谷待兩天,完全是衝著這個看廟( Wat Khao Buddhakodom)的行程,真的是很有趣的設計,顛覆了很多傳統廟宇的設計,結構極具美感,用料卻是非常物美價廉。

自從在更靠近曼谷的地方設立給在家居士修行的道場後,現在這些建築都已沒有經常使用,所以帶我們參觀的和尚頻頻向我們道歉説地方不是很乾淨,其實還可以的。這位和尚出家前在台北天母住過三年,後來在泰國做過英文老師,所以中英文都很好。

This trip is the main reason why I came to Bangkok. The temple, Wat Khao Buddhakodom, is 2 hours away from Bangkok, in a forest near the ocean.

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原本是博物館的樓下大廳,佛像懸在右方墻上,而不是傳統上一尊大佛在中央的設計。
Basically it utilizes very low cost and ordinary materials, blends modern design into various buildings focusing on different functions. This building was previously a museum but now the museum is moved to somewhere closer to Bangkok for easier access to city devotees.

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看這尊大蛇幫佛陀擋雨的水塘時,階梯上竟然真的睡了一條蛇。旁邊小屋是僧眾考試的地方。
A simple pond in the bush and the classroom building.

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要爬這樓梯得心無畏懼,兼穩定平衡感很好。
A stair you can only ascend with a fearless attitude and good balance.

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這間和尚的個人住房羨煞了我們,看來是位熱愛種花蒔草的和尚。
This is one of the monk’s individual cabins. Must be a plant-loving monk with all these orchids in his balcony.

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居士做禪修的大堂,裏面睡了一隻像是畫了眼線的貓,表情非常耐人尋味。
Meditation shrine for lay devotees and a cat with serious lined eyes in contemplation.

遊河看廟塔 Temples Seeing On Ferry

為了躲避傍晚交通,乘捷運到離酒店兩站的河邊乘船。上船之後覓得一個好位子,坐著很舒服,過了廟也懶得下船,索性沿河坐到底站。
To avoid the land traffic, I took a ferry to go to Wat Arun. Since it was such a pleasant ride, I decided to stay on board until the last stop.
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終點站是個夜市,下船晃了一圈,再上船,又看了一圈夜景回來。在行駛的船上照相又沒有腳架,成功率比較低,但還是非常超值的懶人遊,來回只需30泰銖!
The final stop is a night market. For 15 Thai Baht, the almost hour long journey is definitely value for money.  What is even better is that it became completely dark when taking the return trip so I got to see the night view as well.  It was not easy to take pictures without tripod on a moving boat but fortunately ended with a few good ones.
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關於 bella.chao
a simple wandering being on less beaten tracks in samsara

One Response to 曼谷三天兩夜 “吃-喝-逛-廟" 行 Dining, Shopping and Temple-Seeing in Bangkok

  1. janehuang says:

    好棒喔!羨慕!照片真是精彩!

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