紹興三天兩夜元旦遊 2 Days In Shaoxing

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自從Wordpress 在中國再度被封後,就沒有辦法用Live Writer 發博文。趁還有兩天在牆外,趕緊貼照片。

Since WordPress got blocked again in China, I have not been able to post via Live Writer. Hence the aspiration now is to post as many backlog pictures as possible while I am beyond the great wall.

元旦是去紹興過的。

紹興是老祖宗的地方。上一次去是1992年,印像最深的就是那青石板路、三輪車、綿綿細雨和也許是我幻想中的文人氣息。

I went to Shaoxing with some friends for the New Year’s Eve and the new year celebration. Some people needed to relax and to have a short retreat from work while some people like myself simply enjoyed a well-planned no-need-to-think-at-all trip.

Shaoxing is where my ancestors lived and the last time (also the only one time) I was here was in winter 1992, so exactly 10 years ago. It is a place famous for breeding advisers in the old days (as chief staff to governors and other high-ranked officials especially in the Ming and Qing dynasty) and wine.

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住的地方是禹陵村,號稱是大禹治水的那個大禹的家鄉,村人同大禹姓姒。

整個村子仿安曼被全部改建成一個旅館。車子停外面,坐那種高爾夫球場的電動車進村入住,村內只有住戶,很安靜。頗有中國式迪士尼主題公園的感覺。

旅館大堂供了一尊騎獅的文殊,還沒入住就覺得挺親切的。

We stayed in an ancient village of descendents of a great Chinese emperor five thousand years ago, Da Yu. In his time, those emperors/leaders dedicated themselves to benefiting people by works such as flood prevention and and they did not pass the helm to their own sons but to the most capable and wholesome person in the country. An amazing era!

Now this village has been turned into a five-star hotel, but they did a good job in preserving the original look. Each house is now a hotel room while larger houses serve as restaurant etc.

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111230 Shaoxing 027村內的餐廳外掛了一排臘鴨臘魚,適逢傍晚,西式打扮的廚子過來收蠟味。另有幾個小姑娘住客,自攜古裝來照相(看模樣還是學生,中國人的富二代有錢的叻~),於是成就了這麽一幅中西混雜、蠟味+宮女的古怪畫面。

This is a funny scene in the late afternoon. The restaurant staff dressed in western style were collecting sun-dried duck etc. on the street while some Chinese rich kids walking by in their self-bringing costumes for photo-taking. Hence a mix of western chefs, dried meat and Chinese palace maid in a small village.

村裡有烏篷船可免費乘坐。12月31日沒啥人,船老大無聊的在打盹,見到我們馬上眉開眼笑的問我們要不要乘船。
Free Wupeng boat ride is offered in the hotel. Wupeng boat is a traditional means of water transportation peculiar to Shaoxing, covered with an awning woven with thin bamboo strips and painted in shiny black, hence the name Wu-peng, literally meaning “black-awning”. Such a beautiful dusk on water.
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這是朋友的“房間”,非常之大。唯一美中不足的是,他們廁所的門是透明的,所以去上廁所前得探頭探腦、算算房間內有沒有人消失,以免自己成了不速之客。
This is the “room” of two friends, also our gathering place for all the evenings.
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這是我們的“房間”——平成街112號,兩層樓的房子,一樓是浴室和臥房,樓上是客廳和書桌。中國特色吧,樓上樓下各有一個超大電視,估計對有些人來說,在床上看電視是日常生活必需的一部分。很喜歡這條街的名稱,“平安成就”,大過年來住還挺吉祥的。
This our “room”, No. 112 of Ping-cheng Street, meaning the street of peace and accomplishment, very auspicious for the start of a year.
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村子夜景 night view of the village
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紹興市中心 Downtown Shaoxing

浙江富,建設好,但文化底蘊足,新舊夾織並存,沒有顧此失彼。
Shaoxing is a major city of Zhejiang province and ZJ is a very rich province. Fortunately although urbanization and economic development grew tremendously fast, they still preserve the traditional stuff pretty well.
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市中心的小丘“蕺山”是個散步和登塔眺望紹興市全景的好去處,旁邊有書院,山腳下有座古樸的大廟,廟外居民區還保持古色古香的樣貌,而且不是做做樣子,生活氣息非常濃厚。
In Jishan hill you can have a nice walk in the park and go up to the tower to have a birds’ eye view of the city.  By the hill is a nice old temple surrounded by a traditional neighborhood. Very kind and simple people. We even walked inside one old couple’s home to take a look at what it is like inside and what they are cooking for their children visiting later for the New Year gathering.
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我們頗為三八的跑到人家家裡張望,大叔大嬸正在為今晚回家吃飯的兒子烹調大餐。

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因為快過年了,街上各處掛滿了臘魚臘鴨風雞。阿彌陀佛。希望這些畜生已經往生極樂世界過個好年。

Because people are preparing food for the coming Chinese New Year in Feb, they use all the possible public areas to hang their fish, duck, chicken to be dried. Poor animals. Otherwise, you would usually see people hang their laundry, even underwear, all around. Definitely a scene only in China.

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不知紹興和雪梨是不是姊妹市,市中心廣場上蓋了一個雪梨歌劇院的山寨版公共建築。旁邊一個小公園倒挺好,有人在唱戲,唯一的觀眾就是閑閑沒事的船伕和偶爾經過拍照的遊客。這裡船伕的娛樂福利真是好。
They also have this funny building looked like the Sidney Opera House in a downtown plaza, right next to an ancient stupa and a park. In the park, there were people singing traditional tunes, with all the oarsman of Wupeng boats gathering together as the only audience. Life can be very simple and enjoyable for some people.

Food
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紹興隨便吃都不錯——千島湖農家菜、紹興飯店正兒八經的領導菜(響鈴好吃)。咸亨酒店是不得不去的“景點”,醉魚特好吃(我是不愛吃魚的人唷,都還忍不住吃完一小塊),臭千張我覺得很好吃,但是同行人都無法接受,個人覺得跟某些歐洲起司相比,其實是很ok的。太雕好喝,順口,10年、15年的都好。一大敗筆是環境跟我上次來的那個小店感覺完全不同,現在搞得跟食堂一般,隨時有旅行團大巴過來湧進百號人的浮躁感。

In general, very good food everywhere. Local dishes are delicious with their unique characters. If you dare to try stinky tofu, there are plenty of many other stinky-xxx local delicacies you can try here. Shaoxing Hotel used to be the best hotel in town and serves decent local dishes. Xian-Feng Restaurant is the most famous one in town where you can sample a bit of everything and purchase their famous wine. Just need to expect a lot of tourists there.

蘭亭 Lan-Ting

很靈的地方,地靈氣清,天下第一的《蘭亭集序》誕生地,果然不一般。
This is the place where Wang Xi-Zhi (303-361), the greatest calligrapher ever, created his best work while having an outing with some friends. Unfortunately we can only see its copy nowadays as the piece was so loved by an emperor that he ordered the original to be kept in his tomb for his accompany. The emperor was the father of Princess Wencheng, i.e. the father-in-law of Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo.
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告別···歸去 Last Walk Around The Hotel

臨走前在酒店又逛了一圈。見到一朵芭蕉花,船伕依然賣力的招呼客人。欸乃一聲過小橋,又是一年。
Before leaving, I took a long walk around the hotel village again. A banana flower stood in the coldness. The boatman continued to show hotel guests around with his warm gesture.  Another year comes.
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關於 bella.chao
a simple wandering being on the less beaten tracks in samsara

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