Sikkim Pilgrimage 2011 錫金朝聖

Since most people needed to catch their flights, we only did a two-day trip out of Gangtok after the teachings. Hope I will get a chance to stay longer next time.
因為有半數人要趕飛機,所以只有兩日遊。下次要自己待久一點。

Temi Tea Garden 茶園
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After leaving Gangtok, we had breakfast and tea at Temi, the only tea garden in Sikkim and considered one of the best in India and in the world.
離開甘托克的第一站是在這裡吃早餐,當然,還有喝茶。這是錫金唯一產茶的地方,也是號稱印度、甚至全世界最好的紅茶產地之一。

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I asked lama to buy me this snack after seeing an Indian chewing it in a tiny grocery shop. I suspected the Indian took something similar to betelnut wrapped in a leave, but the lama got me something sweet.  Ani-la forbid me eating it out of concern for my health so I only sample- tasted some of the ingredients. Like the rose flavor jelly sweets 🙂

看到印度人在雜貨店買這個吃,用樹葉包某些東西捲成一個小包吃,很像我們的檳榔。請喇嘛幫我買了一個。喇嘛說有兩種,他幫我買的這個是甜的,但是尼師不準我吃,怕我拉肚子。葉子沒吃,還是偷嘗了一點裡面的東西,有玫瑰味的紅色軟糖、椰肉乾、甘草粉…香香的,很好吃。

 

Giant Guru Rinpoche Statue at Namchi 36公尺高的巨大蓮師像
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Ravanla Monastery and Buddha Park / 惹旺拉寺與佛陀公園
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大寶金剛仁波切今天恰好在Ravanla學校給學生做文殊口傳和一些其他行程,安排我們中午一起在Ravanla寺吃中飯。寺廟主人是相片中最左邊的那位祖古,真是不好意思,把他名字給忘了,只記得他來自有名的大成就者家族,是尼雅Nyak氏的後人。
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大寶金剛仁波切到的很晚,所以我們饑腸轆轆等了很久。這裡的香蕉超級好吃,跟平常那種催熟早摘的完全不同,不甜卻帶著類似芭蕉的香氣。

Ravanla is building a Buddha Park 小鎮正在建設一個佛陀公園,以後可供人遊憩。
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Tashiding 扎西頂
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It is said that the whole Sikkim is a holy place and Tashiding is the most sacred place among Sikkim. Jamyang Khyentse Chokyi Lodro was cremated at Tashiding and the golden one is his stupa. Even thinking of soon to see this stupa made my way up so joyful.

整個錫金都是聖地,而扎西頂又是全錫金最神聖的地方。二世欽哲確吉羅卓仁波切就是在扎西頂火化,金色這尊是他的舍利塔。想到馬上能夠朝拜這個佛塔,剛剛爬階梯上到廟裡來時,一路歡快雀躍不已。

There is also one ‘Thong-Wa-rang-Dol’, ‘Liberation by mere seeing’ stupa here.
這裡還有一個“見即解脫塔”,不過忘了是哪一座,記得是白色金頂的。
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This old man, Garpa, came from my beloved Kyegu since his twenties and spent the past fifty years carving mani stones in this holy place. His works include various mantras and Buddha images. He kindly showed us around to see various sacred sites/imprints of Guru Rinpoche and dakinis. He is over seventy years old now but can still walk really fast.

這位年過七十的老人家來自我摯愛的玉樹,二十多歲來此,五十年在這聖地雕刻瑪尼石。為我們介紹各個特別地方,蓮師腳印、空行母聚集處等種種聖跡。他仙風道骨,健步如飛,還一直説他也是薩迦的。
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Guru Rinpoche Long Life Cave at Tashiding 蓮師長壽岩穴
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It was completely dark and rainy when we walked down the hill toward this cave. I was nagging silently that if not for waiting for Ratna Vajra Rinpoche for lunch, we could have arrived while there were still sunlight (some other people were nagging out loud…). When it was my turn to squeeze inside the cave (the passage is so narrow that only one person is allowed to try each time), I heard my jean ripped while passing through the sharp edge of rocks. The ripping was right on my butt that if I can tear off the bottom parts, they would become perfect hot pants for the beach. Now I was really happy that it was so dark that nobody can see this small disaster.

走山路下來這洞時,天已全黑,還下小雨。我只有一個小不拉幾的手指粗的手電筒,什麽都看不清。一邊走心裡一邊碎碎念,誰排去吃中飯的,不等仁波切就不會搞到那麼晚才摸黑走山路。待輪到我鑽進洞時(洞口很小,一次只能一人入),才剛抬腿就聽見牛仔褲啪唧一聲裂了——裂在屁股上,把褲管扯掉就是超短的熱褲。當時馬上感謝諸佛菩薩保佑,還好天黑沒人看得見。

事後聽說還真有人滑倒在泥濘山徑上,不過據她說摔下時,覺得有護法幫忙抬了一下,人完全沒事,而且有一邊屁股竟然沒有著地。神奇吧。

 

Pemayangtse Monastery 貝瑪楊澤寺
This is one of the oldest monasteries in Sikkim. 錫金最老的寺院。
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A Holy Lake 聖湖  — Khecheopalri Lake?
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Yuksam
This was the first capital of Sikkim, where the first Chogyal of the Kingdom of Sikkim was consecrated in the 1641 AD by three learned lamas.
錫金第一個首都。史載錫金第一個國王就是在此處由三位大成就喇嘛授灌登基的。有三法座的石臺,腳印和神木。
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One Sikkim School 路過的錫金小學
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Another Holy Lake 又一神湖
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Guru Rinpoche Cave 蓮師洞
There are four Padmasambhava caves in Sikkim. This one, Khado Sangphug, is the only one accessible by car. Secret Cave of Dakinis, simply love the name! There is also hot spring right outside by the river.
錫金四個蓮師洞只有這個是車子可通,走一下就能到,叫做“康卓桑埔”,空行密穴,聽名字就覺得很讚。洞前河邊有溫泉。
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Gangtok 甘托克

View of Gangtok city from cable car
纜車看錫金首府甘托克
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Sikkim Legislative Assembly where H.H. Sakya Trizin gave a public teaching on “Basic Understanding of Buddhism” in October
錫金立法會,有一天法王在這裡給大眾公開開示,講“佛教基礎”
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Tsuklakhang Royal Chapel and Monastery, where Jamyang Khyentse Chokyi Lodro and Khandro Tsering Chodron used to live
錫金王室家廟,以前二世欽哲確吉羅卓和佛母康卓慈玲秋諄就住在這兒
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Namgyal Institute of Tibetology housing a rich depository of Tibetan literature, rare manuscripts, paintings, thangkas, statues and religious objects and other works of art and history
南嘉藏學研究中心,博物館可以看到很多文物
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Chorten Monastery where Dodrupchen Rinpoche resides with many many cats
多智欽仁波切駐錫的秋登寺,裡面貓特多,受到上至仁波切、下至眾喇嘛的寵愛
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This cat is not from Chorten Gonpa but belongs to a friend. It treats me like a member of the family, or more precisely, a cushion of the house.
這隻貓是朋友家的,完全把我當成自家的座墊。
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Also learned how to make Tibetan barley wine, chiang 🙂
還見到朋友母親在屋頂釀酒,主要是供養多智欽仁波切寺廟做修法甘露用
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Sikkim definitely offers the best Tibetan food, especially their family cuisine, simply delicious! The famous fireball chilies look deceivingly cute and I did not dare to try until reaching Manduwala.
錫金藏族菜是我吃過最好吃的,有筍,有蘑菇腐乳泡菜…特別是家常菜,想來還是流口水。著名的火球小辣椒則一直沒膽嘗試,反而是到了Manduwala才大膽吃了。
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