Tso Pema 蓮師聖湖:措貝瑪

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有人帶著去的好處就是自己完全不用花腦筋,又可以很悠閑地一天就朝拜完主要的聖地。

This was a one day trip to this holy lake associated with Padmasambhava. Thanks to a friend so that I got to effortlessly cover all the major sites in a rather leisure way.

蓮師洞 Guru Rinpoche Cave

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先去山上的蓮師洞,附近有個頗有靈氣的小湖。

一下車就有人在販售風馬旗。一條龍服務,買完旗子後,旁邊就有個喇嘛可以幫旗子念經什麽的,然後有印度人可以幫你到蓮師洞旁爬上去掛旗子。

Debora recommended me to stay somewhere around here if I come for more than a day. Indeed a very serene place. It would be wonderful to do a retreat here.

There is a small lake nearby (not Tso Pema), also looked quite “holy”.

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蓮師洞,顧名思義就是蓮師修行過的洞。這裡有兩隻很有靈性的狗,我們還不知道怎麽走的時候,小白狗就走在我們前面帶路,帶我們往下走到岩洞裡。

等我們在蓮師像前面修法時,它也陪在旁邊,很親密地依著人。

There are two hospitable and kind dogs. While I was still hesitating which way to go, a white dog came as if he was guiding me to go down into the main cave.

While we were doing our practices inside, it also lovingly accompanied us there for almost the whole session until more people came inside.

120814 Tso Pema 011旁邊還有一個小洞,是曼達拉娃佛母和蓮師一起修的地方?記不太得了。

Linked to the main cave is another smaller cave.  Too bad that I can’t remember the history behind.

Then out of the cave, we did a Kora around the cave. The two dogs came to lead us again!

To the other side of the hill, there is another cave where it housed a footprint of Guru Rinpoche.

 

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然後繞著蓮師洞轉山,可以走到後面一個有蓮師腳印的岩洞。兩隻小狗又很盡責的在我們前面引路。

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There are many retreat huts/caves around.  We saw some monk/nun carrying barley flours up to the mountain, probably back to their retreat place.

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一路上有很多依著岩洞建立的閉關小屋。在山上隱修的僧尼很辛苦地自己扛著青稞粉上山。

朋友眼尖,看到這隻大概才剛出生的小老鼠。只有一個指節的拇指大小,還渾身濕漉漉的,給它吃麵包碎片都還不會吃。

A baby mouse, only the size of half of my thumb. So young that it did not seem to know how to eat solid food yet.

措貝瑪 Tso Pema
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120814 Tso Pema 032120814 Tso Pema 038120814 Tso Pema 039就是原本曼達拉娃公主的父王要燒死蓮花生大士的那個湖,不過反而因為蓮師在此顯現種種神跡而收服了這個小王國信仰佛法。

湖邊有個可以餵魚的地方。魚兒很多很多,看著它們不斷張口索取食物,覺得很悲哀。。。不幸投生作魚的話,即使是投生在這種每天都吃得很飽又不擔心有人會把它們宰來吃的地方,但是出於業力,每天想的還是只有吃,也不太可能持個咒什麽的。這樣想想,就覺得要好好珍惜自己的人身。不然每天吃飯、睡覺,跟畜生也沒什麽差別。

The lake where Padmasambhava performed miracles and tamed the king/people of Princess Mandarava’s kingdom.

There are so many fishes in the lake. Seeing them seeking endlessly for food is such a sadening thing.  They are among the most fortunate fishes in the world – plenty of food available in a safe environment. Yet they can not do something meaningful such as helping each other or doing some practice. All they know is looking for more food…  very rarely can I think of the downfalls of taking  rebirth in the animal realm and this is one of the few rare moments.

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朋友可以拿這湖水來洗臉。我分別心重,做不到。

很湊巧的是在湖邊碰到了在Spiti一起接法的師兄。就是她跟我們説到吉布巴的聖地,我們之前才去朝聖的。離開Spiti後就一直沒有聯絡(因為她沒有手機),沒想到在這裡撞見,還是她在措貝瑪的最後一天,過來餵鴨子的幾分鐘內給我看見了。這也算是有緣千里來相會。

Quite amazingly ran into Semzang here. She told us about the Driburi pilgrimage back in Spiti and we did not see each other for all these days (she does not have a mobile). Just during this short time by the lake to feed the fishes, she happened to come to feed the ducks on her last day in Tso Pema. Speaking of karmic connections, this must be one of them.

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湖邊有大蓮師像,還有好幾個廟。也有很大的錫克廟,因為他們認為蓮師是他們的一位聖人。

There are a giant Guru Rinpoche statue and many monasteries by the lake, including a big Sikh temple (Sikhs also consider Padmasambhava to be a saint of theirs).

自生度母像 Self-arising Tara Image

翁珠仁波切的廟旁邊有一個自生度母像,就在一株菩提樹旁。

This is by a bodhi tree near Ontrul Rinpoche’s monastery.

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曼達拉娃洞 Mandarava Cave

曼達拉娃修行的岩洞。這裡的尼師會講很多很多的故事,岩壁上有手印、寶冠印……她説這是曼達拉娃和蓮師初見的地方,慕斯唐的Lo-gekar則是第一次蓮師、曼達拉娃、耶喜措嘉會面的地方。聽到Lo Gekar就很高興,聽到耶喜措嘉去過慕斯唐就更高興了。話說回來,作為第一位伏藏師取藏的地方,耶喜措嘉曾經去過那裡,也就一點也不奇怪了。
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120814 Tso Pema 049這幾個指印很清楚,像是有人把岩石當麵團捏了一把的樣子。

If you can speak Tibetan, the nun looking after this place can tell you all sort of things, from the history of the cave to the various prints on the rock – hand prints, imprints of ritual crowns…

This hand print is the most visible one. You can place your hand over it, as if you could take a grip of the rock as a dough.

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前一晚沒睡,去的路上在暈車,回比爾的路上也在暈車。一路暈睡的回程途中,一時坐起,恰好看見了這個讓人感覺充滿加持的景觀。

I was car sick all the way to Tso Pema, and again car sick all the way back to Bir.  This amazing scene showed up during the few seconds I happened to sit up on the way back. A beautiful end to a day full of blessings.

關於 bella.chao
a simple wandering being on the less beaten tracks in samsara

2 Responses to Tso Pema 蓮師聖湖:措貝瑪

  1. chiviewacupuncture@yahoo.com says:

    Thank!!
    Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry®

  2. 阿敦 says:

    前天很偶爾遇到您這個網站
    雖然自己沒有您那麼殊勝的善緣能夠親自到印度與海外在您說的這些大善知識面前領受加持與法益
    然而 透過您長久以來這麼辛勤又無私的分享
    彷彿我也瞬間就搭上您的便車也飛到了各聖地朝聖去了
    也飛到了偉大的上師們駐席的寺院聆聽開示參加諸多法會了
    而且 還有那多精譬的師長們的開示 真是獲益良多

    祝福師姐 合家吉祥安康 朝聖旅途與以及各地學法皆順利平安

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