在錫金的中秋節:有機蔬食和隆德寺 Rumtek and Organic Veggie For the Mid-Autumn Festival in Sikkim

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Yesterday was the Mid-Autumn Festival for Chinese. Instead of moon cake and heavy feast, I had a feast with exotic organic vegetables, plus a visit to the Rumtek Monastery.

The day started with a 7am trip to the Sunday Farmers’ market in Gangtok where farmers in the neighboring areas would bring fresh produce to sell here.

因為星期天,附近農民都會帶菜過來賣,所以朋友早上7點就帶我去見識一下甘托克的農夫市集。
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圓圓紅紅的是錫金有名的“火球”辣椒,看著可愛,卻是世界上最辣的辣椒品種之一。

我是只要看到綠葉菜就很高興,所以錫金對我簡直就是天堂。印度其他地方往往只有小黃瓜、蕃茄、洋蔥、花菜、胡蘿蔔、菠菜、茄子,這裡從捲心菜、杭白菜、莧菜、香菜(芫荽)、西洋菜、白蘿蔔、南瓜、胡瓜……還有各式各樣不知名的野菜,看得我眼花繚亂的。

最重要的是,有我很愛的筍、蕨菜(大姐説共有五種)、龍須菜(現在知道了,其實就是瓜苗)和菌菇。

On top of the famous fireball chilies, there are all kinds of green vegetables, indeed a heaven for me! With my favorite bamboo shoots, ferns…(mushroom would only arrive after ~9am)

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好像是酒糟之類的東西,擁葉子包著販賣,看著就很討人喜歡。錫金是很注重環保的地方,這裡購物時給的袋子一律是紙袋或環保袋,沒有塑料袋。
Not sure what is this lady selling, but the packing looks nice and environmental friendly!

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朋友看到這個菜農剛擺出的小苦瓜很新鮮,所以來挑苦瓜。兩顆橢圓形橘綠色的果兒,也是苦瓜的一個品種~  右邊那個豆莢原來也是能吃的,我們挑苦瓜的時候,豆莢被甘托克蔬菜店老闆全部抱走了(這裡是批發市場),說是可以拿來生吃。

Two types of small bitter gourds. I have never seen that yellowish oval shape specie before. They looked more like fruits to me.

The giant bean pods are also edible. The lady purchasing them all (probably a local shop owner for retail) said people eat them raw.

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這個很像風信子的花兒是時令特產,朋友説是帶苦味的。買了一點回去,加了點洋蔥、姜、蕃茄炒給我吃,果然花的部份微苦,不過沒有苦瓜那麽苦, 花梗的部份倒是很香甜。
These Hyacinthus-like flowers are also edible. Stir-fried with onion, ginger and tomato, the flowers tasted a bit bitter while the stems juicy and refreshing like asparagus.

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這是蕁麻的葉子(左)和花(右)。因為是密勒日巴尊者在山上禪修時的唯一食物,所以我也弄了一把蕁麻葉回來,還沒吃到就是了。
Nettles leaves and flowers. A must-try for Milarepa admirers 🙂

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被拿來食用的花還很多,大黃花猛一看有點像金針花,不過我猜是某種瓜類的花。右邊那個乾乾的小花看來口感不會很好。左下紅色的是香蕉花。右下是筍,筍兒都是長條形的,非常鮮。

Some more flowers and fresh bamboo shoots. The red ones are banana flowers.

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去年在錫金吃到這個形狀的香蕉之後,覺得讚的不得了。我是從來不會主動買香蕉吃的人,但是這個形狀的香蕉有股誘人的芳香,平常那種黃色長年不壞的香蕉完全沒得比。

中間上面扁扁的蘋果看著很漂亮,竟然是福建來的。怪不得漂亮,亮晶晶的一層蠟吧。希望本地這些健康美味的有機農產品不會被進口的不自然大型農場產品取代掉。

最後是買了芭樂、木瓜和我的新歡——石榴。

Sikkim banana is very delicious with nice flavor, unlike the dull yellow ones we usually get in the ‘developed countries’ supermarkets. Pomegranate is my new love while the organic Bhutanese apples (even partially red inside) have been accompanying me since day one of this trip.

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這個是不丹來的有機蘋果,不是我們買的。從我來錫金的第一天晚上説好吃後,阿姨就放了一盆在我房間, 不時補上幾顆。每顆都長得不一樣,有的紅色果皮還會紅到果肉裡。不但甜,而且香氣距離一公尺都聞得到。

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最後離開市場時,看到有一車剛到的農民正要下貨(同一村的人會一起包車過來),於是搶到兩把之前沒有見過的白花。我在對街看見這花就衝了上前,到了花的面前,因為實在太完美了,一度悵然以為“原來是塑膠花”……但是再摸摸,真的是鮮花,有股野薑花家族的味道。

早起的鳥兒有蟲吃,雖然這個市集會持續一天,但是要買到新鮮蔬果或珍稀花卉,還是得趁早來,不然好東西很快就會被甘托克的商家給掃光。

Got these amazing white flowers after leaving the market. Freshly arrived with a jeep full of various products probably brought by people from the same village. We took most of them even before they reach the marketplace 🙂

***

吃完中飯後,去了對山的隆德寺。就是十六世大寶法王離開西藏後所建立的寺廟,土地是當年錫金國王供養的七畝地。

After lunch, we went to Rumtek Monastery. Local people said there was huge rain last night so much so that they were worried about their houses would get washed away! But it was sunny when we arrived.

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大殿入口上方的五隻雪獅很可愛,每一隻表情都不太一樣。
Cute snow lions, each with its own cute expression.
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朋友嘲笑我朝拜隆德寺具有特別業障,去年是沒帶護照,今年是帶了護照卻沒有帶上錫金通行證,還好他特別問了一聲,所以開到一半又折回去拿。晚點到的好處是正好碰到修護法的時間,所以瑪哈嘎拉護法室和多傑綽洛(忿怒蓮師相之一)室都在修法。還朝拜了度母室,以及最重要的:十六世大寶法王的舍利金塔 _/\_。

喇嘛很慈悲的讓我們進去隔間裡朝拜,可以直接頂禮舍利塔,還讓我碰了一條平常加持寶瓶會用的那種五色繩,一端是連在塔上的。前天讀貝瑪薩公主傳時,正好讀到她有一顆spiritual turqiose,還在尋思是什麽寶貝,十六世金塔上所鑲的青松石諸寶貝裡,就有一顆是赤松德贊王的命力石!旁邊一顆則是瑪爾巴夫人給密勒日巴去向瑪爾巴求法的那顆青松石~~哇,能親眼見到這些以前讀過的寶貝真的是很啓發道心!

We were a bit late than planned due to my stupidity of forgetting to bring the Sikkim entry permit and hence driving back again after we almost left Gangtok. The good thing is that, because of the delay, the monks were performing the daily Mahakala and Dorje Drolo rituals when we were there.

The highlight was the Golden Stupa containing the 16th Karmapa’s relics. Moreover, the stupa is decorated with many precious objects. So thrilled to see the life force turquoise of King Trisong Deutsen  and the turquoise that Marpa’s wife gave to Milarepa so that he could make some offering in order to receive teachings……to see these things only read on paper before is such a blessing!!

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120930 Gangtok food 005朝拜完後,去十六世大寶法王總管的兒子家喝茶吃餅乾。喝完一家後,又去了十六世大寶法王的姪女家喝茶。她家有六隻奶牛,所以奶茶和奶酪都好吃的不得了~~

Then we visited two families by the monastery.  Had super delicious tea and curd, made from the milk of their family cows 🙂

吃飽飽回家後,雖說是吃不下飯了,但是大姐做的起司餃子太好吃了,本來說吃兩個的,最後大概吃了十個吧,還有一大碗湯!人在異鄉的中秋節,還是飽餐了好幾頓!

Though completely full after the tea, cookies, curd……etc. it is still too hard to say no to the delicious home made paneer momo (dumpling). Initially I just wanted to taste two and probably ended up having ten momos plus a big bowl of paneer veggie soup. Even though being abroad, I was not deprived from the Mid-Autumn Festival feast at all!

***

Actually it has been one feast after another feast everyday since I came to Sikkim. Sample pictures of the amazing family cuisine I have been having in the past few days :-p

其實來了錫金後,沒有一天沒吃好的。朋友家餐餐好料,也許我應該開始寫一本素食食譜~
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a simple wandering being on less beaten tracks in samsara

2 Responses to 在錫金的中秋節:有機蔬食和隆德寺 Rumtek and Organic Veggie For the Mid-Autumn Festival in Sikkim

  1. view chi says:

    中秋快乐。。。

    ________________________________ 寄件者: bella.chao 收件者: chiviewacupuncture@yahoo.com 寄件日期: 2012/10/1 (週一) 9:15 AM 主旨: [新文章] 在錫金的中秋節:有機蔬食和隆德寺 Rumtek and Organic Veggie For the Mid-Autumn Festival in Sikkim WordPress.com bella.chao posted: " Yesterday was the Mid-Autumn Festival for Chinese. Instead of moon cake and heavy feast, I had a feast with exotic organic vegetables, plus a visit to the Rumtek Monastery. The day started with a 7am trip to the Sunday Farmers’ market in Gangtok whe"

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