從蟹足菇到泥鰍 from beech mushrooms to loaches


炒了一盤蟹足菇後,突然想到小時候祖母跟我說的一道菜。

她說,拿一塊冰涼的豆腐,旁邊放上泥鰍,擺在鍋裡蒸,泥鰍就會鑽到豆腐裡躲避高溫,然後死在裡面。不知道這是她在上海還是福州會做的菜,估計蘭州的可能性比較低。

小時候的我沈迷在古龍《絕代雙驕》等武俠小說的各種珍饈甚至怪異菜餚中,李大嘴連人肉都吃了,所以只覺得這道菜聽起來很有創意。到長大後,才感覺這菜委實殘忍,還好也一直沒人要做給我吃。

今天看到炒好的蟹足菇,就想到吃蟹足菇不是挺好的,人們幹嘛總要去折騰其他生靈。

最近在看美劇Hannibal,愈看愈覺得那是提倡素食人士的另類宣導方法。裡面有一段劇情是男主角讓衣冠楚楚的對頭坐在奢華擺設的餐桌前,每天給對頭(這個狀況下應該是受害者)一頓大餐,只不過大餐的內容可能這餐是對頭的煙燻烤右腿,下餐是對頭的薄片風乾左手臂,兩人還在用餐期間談笑風生。現代人,特別是美國人,要把肉處理到完全看不出是個動物的樣子才來下肚,也是類似的行為,只是粉飾太平的程度不同而已。

Looking at these beech mushrooms today cooked for lunch today, all a sudden I thought of a dish my grandmother described to me when I was really young. 

She said, you put some clean and seasoned live loaches with a block of cold tofu together, steam them. The loaches would go inside the tofu to avoid heat and you end up with a tofu with loaches inlayed beautifully. 

As a child, I found it interesting. Later I always though it’s such a cruel way to cook. Now I wonder why people can’t simply eat plants like mushrooms and leave those poor sentient beings alone. Not to mentioned that, a lot of these weird things chinese people eat don’t even taste good and you actually have to use very heavy sauce or seasoning to cover that meat’s original taste. This is even true for our regular animal protein–if you ask someone who has never eaten port, veal or fish in their life to give it a try, I’m pretty sure they’d find its taste stinking and horrible. This is a common experience for people restarting eating meat after being vegetarian for some time. So really, unlike sugar may be an inbuilt desirable taste for human beings, animal protein is more of an acquired taste. 

I’ve been watching the TV show Hannibal recently. Somehow I really feel it’s an alternative campaign for vegetarian diet. Once you become conscious of what you put in mouth, no matter how seemingly civilized the meal and table setting appears, you’d find it hard to swallow. Vegetarian is really the way to go. 

關於 bella.chao
a simple wandering being on less beaten tracks in samsara

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