紹興三天兩夜元旦遊 2 Days In Shaoxing

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自從Wordpress 在中國再度被封後,就沒有辦法用Live Writer 發博文。趁還有兩天在牆外,趕緊貼照片。

Since WordPress got blocked again in China, I have not been able to post via Live Writer. Hence the aspiration now is to post as many backlog pictures as possible while I am beyond the great wall.

元旦是去紹興過的。

紹興是老祖宗的地方。上一次去是1992年,印像最深的就是那青石板路、三輪車、綿綿細雨和也許是我幻想中的文人氣息。

I went to Shaoxing with some friends for the New Year’s Eve and the new year celebration. Some people needed to relax and to have a short retreat from work while some people like myself simply enjoyed a well-planned no-need-to-think-at-all trip.

Shaoxing is where my ancestors lived and the last time (also the only one time) I was here was in winter 1992, so exactly 10 years ago. It is a place famous for breeding advisers in the old days (as chief staff to governors and other high-ranked officials especially in the Ming and Qing dynasty) and wine.

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住的地方是禹陵村,號稱是大禹治水的那個大禹的家鄉,村人同大禹姓姒。

整個村子仿安曼被全部改建成一個旅館。車子停外面,坐那種高爾夫球場的電動車進村入住,村內只有住戶,很安靜。頗有中國式迪士尼主題公園的感覺。

旅館大堂供了一尊騎獅的文殊,還沒入住就覺得挺親切的。

We stayed in an ancient village of descendents of a great Chinese emperor five thousand years ago, Da Yu. In his time, those emperors/leaders dedicated themselves to benefiting people by works such as flood prevention and and they did not pass the helm to their own sons but to the most capable and wholesome person in the country. An amazing era!

Now this village has been turned into a five-star hotel, but they did a good job in preserving the original look. Each house is now a hotel room while larger houses serve as restaurant etc.

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111230 Shaoxing 027村內的餐廳外掛了一排臘鴨臘魚,適逢傍晚,西式打扮的廚子過來收蠟味。另有幾個小姑娘住客,自攜古裝來照相(看模樣還是學生,中國人的富二代有錢的叻~),於是成就了這麽一幅中西混雜、蠟味+宮女的古怪畫面。

This is a funny scene in the late afternoon. The restaurant staff dressed in western style were collecting sun-dried duck etc. on the street while some Chinese rich kids walking by in their self-bringing costumes for photo-taking. Hence a mix of western chefs, dried meat and Chinese palace maid in a small village.

村裡有烏篷船可免費乘坐。12月31日沒啥人,船老大無聊的在打盹,見到我們馬上眉開眼笑的問我們要不要乘船。
Free Wupeng boat ride is offered in the hotel. Wupeng boat is a traditional means of water transportation peculiar to Shaoxing, covered with an awning woven with thin bamboo strips and painted in shiny black, hence the name Wu-peng, literally meaning “black-awning”. Such a beautiful dusk on water.
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這是朋友的“房間”,非常之大。唯一美中不足的是,他們廁所的門是透明的,所以去上廁所前得探頭探腦、算算房間內有沒有人消失,以免自己成了不速之客。
This is the “room” of two friends, also our gathering place for all the evenings.
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這是我們的“房間”——平成街112號,兩層樓的房子,一樓是浴室和臥房,樓上是客廳和書桌。中國特色吧,樓上樓下各有一個超大電視,估計對有些人來說,在床上看電視是日常生活必需的一部分。很喜歡這條街的名稱,“平安成就”,大過年來住還挺吉祥的。
This our “room”, No. 112 of Ping-cheng Street, meaning the street of peace and accomplishment, very auspicious for the start of a year.
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村子夜景 night view of the village
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紹興市中心 Downtown Shaoxing

浙江富,建設好,但文化底蘊足,新舊夾織並存,沒有顧此失彼。
Shaoxing is a major city of Zhejiang province and ZJ is a very rich province. Fortunately although urbanization and economic development grew tremendously fast, they still preserve the traditional stuff pretty well.
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市中心的小丘“蕺山”是個散步和登塔眺望紹興市全景的好去處,旁邊有書院,山腳下有座古樸的大廟,廟外居民區還保持古色古香的樣貌,而且不是做做樣子,生活氣息非常濃厚。
In Jishan hill you can have a nice walk in the park and go up to the tower to have a birds’ eye view of the city.  By the hill is a nice old temple surrounded by a traditional neighborhood. Very kind and simple people. We even walked inside one old couple’s home to take a look at what it is like inside and what they are cooking for their children visiting later for the New Year gathering.
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我們頗為三八的跑到人家家裡張望,大叔大嬸正在為今晚回家吃飯的兒子烹調大餐。

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因為快過年了,街上各處掛滿了臘魚臘鴨風雞。阿彌陀佛。希望這些畜生已經往生極樂世界過個好年。

Because people are preparing food for the coming Chinese New Year in Feb, they use all the possible public areas to hang their fish, duck, chicken to be dried. Poor animals. Otherwise, you would usually see people hang their laundry, even underwear, all around. Definitely a scene only in China.

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不知紹興和雪梨是不是姊妹市,市中心廣場上蓋了一個雪梨歌劇院的山寨版公共建築。旁邊一個小公園倒挺好,有人在唱戲,唯一的觀眾就是閑閑沒事的船伕和偶爾經過拍照的遊客。這裡船伕的娛樂福利真是好。
They also have this funny building looked like the Sidney Opera House in a downtown plaza, right next to an ancient stupa and a park. In the park, there were people singing traditional tunes, with all the oarsman of Wupeng boats gathering together as the only audience. Life can be very simple and enjoyable for some people.

Food
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紹興隨便吃都不錯——千島湖農家菜、紹興飯店正兒八經的領導菜(響鈴好吃)。咸亨酒店是不得不去的“景點”,醉魚特好吃(我是不愛吃魚的人唷,都還忍不住吃完一小塊),臭千張我覺得很好吃,但是同行人都無法接受,個人覺得跟某些歐洲起司相比,其實是很ok的。太雕好喝,順口,10年、15年的都好。一大敗筆是環境跟我上次來的那個小店感覺完全不同,現在搞得跟食堂一般,隨時有旅行團大巴過來湧進百號人的浮躁感。

In general, very good food everywhere. Local dishes are delicious with their unique characters. If you dare to try stinky tofu, there are plenty of many other stinky-xxx local delicacies you can try here. Shaoxing Hotel used to be the best hotel in town and serves decent local dishes. Xian-Feng Restaurant is the most famous one in town where you can sample a bit of everything and purchase their famous wine. Just need to expect a lot of tourists there.

蘭亭 Lan-Ting

很靈的地方,地靈氣清,天下第一的《蘭亭集序》誕生地,果然不一般。
This is the place where Wang Xi-Zhi (303-361), the greatest calligrapher ever, created his best work while having an outing with some friends. Unfortunately we can only see its copy nowadays as the piece was so loved by an emperor that he ordered the original to be kept in his tomb for his accompany. The emperor was the father of Princess Wencheng, i.e. the father-in-law of Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo.
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告別···歸去 Last Walk Around The Hotel

臨走前在酒店又逛了一圈。見到一朵芭蕉花,船伕依然賣力的招呼客人。欸乃一聲過小橋,又是一年。
Before leaving, I took a long walk around the hotel village again. A banana flower stood in the coldness. The boatman continued to show hotel guests around with his warm gesture.  Another year comes.
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Reunion in Phuket 普吉小聚

120114 Phuket 008春節前,去了一趟普吉島。

上一次我們三人同遊是在外蒙古,這回其中兩人結婚生子,於是成了家庭聯歡活動——不過得不時提防一家的弟弟去咬另一家的哥哥。

之前對普吉這種度假勝地沒啥好感,去過之後,不得不承認人家歷久不衰還是有道理的。

首先,住的很好。可租可買的海景公寓,設備很齊全,再花200泰銖租個小摩托車,騎10分鐘車就到Kata海邊。

I took this trip to Phuket, Thailand before the Chinese New Year. It is like a reunion of three of us going to Mongolia together a few years ago.

Now the other two friends both got married and each has a baby son. So it is like holidays for two families. On top of everything fun you do in holidays, we also need to watch out the kids to ensure the younger one does not bite the older one.  (that is how Enzo likes to show his affection)

120116 Phuket 002之後搬去朋友的豪宅,晉升到七星級待遇,還附贈一個小朋友可以玩 🙂

I first stayed at a nice condo by Kata Beach ( in order to go to the beach, I borrowed a scooter and had my first ride after so many years. It confirmed that there are some things  you never forget)

Then I moved to a friend’s  beautiful villa. That is a really WOW place.

***

(下面是 Kata Ocean View Condo 的房間隨拍。聽說明年已經幾乎訂滿了,現在主要是歐洲人和俄羅斯人在這裡。租房、購房請洽:www.oceanic-global.com/
Pictures of my room at the condo. It’s for sale or rent at www.oceanic-global.com. Mostly European tenants with emerging Russians coming to Phuket)
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***

Kata海邊人不致多到令人難忍。超級高興從寒冷的上海來到溫暖陽光下,而且終於有機會帶上一些買了很久卻還沒用過的東西:西班牙買的烏龜海灘包、日本的防水喇叭、印度的紗麗,加上德國的夾腳拖鞋和美國的太陽眼鏡,最近大概看了太多時尚雜誌,於是拍了這幅超級唯物的相片~
Kata Beach is nice as there were not too many people. I must have read way too many fashion magazines on iPad so cannot resist taking such a photo of materialism: my turtle bag from Madrid, water-proof speaker from Tokyo, sunglass from US, flip-flops from Munich, and the latest addition is saree from India which serves multi-purpose functions 🙂
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海邊雖有無數多餐廳,因為在曼谷狂吃了一圈,普吉第一餐決定吃路邊攤,就一份清爽的涼拌米線,然後買了山竹、芒果和龍眼回家吃。山竹吃到飽,呵呵。
Great salad for lunch and then fruits, fruits and more fruits for the rest of the day!
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躺在開冷氣的客廳裡,望著窗外不斷變化的海邊風景,從晴天到這個下午的海天層疊景色,大自然妙哉~
And one of my favorite parts is to watch the constantly changing view of the ocean while lying on the sofa. It changes from sunny blue sky to these elegant layers of colors from sea to sky!

***

時間不夠去Similan Islands潛水,所以在Kata Oceanic View的介紹下,訂了這個Phi Phi島的一日潛水。

上了一艘俄國船,配到一位意大利的潛導,我們竟然還都參加過澳洲同一家公司Taka Diving的船宿潛水。

船上除了滿是俄羅斯人以外,還有兩個亞裔美國女孩令我大長見識!她們可是擦著眼影潛水唷,我還仔細觀察了,真的很防水,上來後,比我化妝5小時後還不掉妝。想像有人穿著泳衣加上舞臺濃妝…無語。

I did not have enough time for a liveaboard diving tour to Similan Islands and ended up taking a day trip to Phi Phi Islands. It was a Russian boat and guess what? full of Russian divers and all sort of alcohols. Of course, alcohols is only allowed after the last dive.

Also one eye-opening takeaway of the trip is that, as demonstrated by two American born Asian girls, you can have full eye makeups while diving. Wow, the waterproof cosmetic is certainly beyond my expectation.
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上面就是里奧納多拍The Beach的地方。人很多,還是在附近找個屬於自己的一方水天玩玩,比較自在。水是真漂亮。
Above is “The Beach” where Leonardo Decaprio shoot the movie. It was previously a rather unknown site, and now, thanks to him, it is pretty packed. Still, plenty of good sites to enjoy the water around the beach.
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總覺得這個船對著大岩塊的場景很眼熟,它們像是在進行某種特別的對話。
It feels like the rock and the boat are having a very special dialogue.

也還好沒去參加那個數日的潛水之旅。因為在上海重病,肺還沒全好,昨天才吃完最後一天的抗生素,今天就下海。第二潛時就覺得肺有點疼,為了避免永久性損傷,放棄了第三淺。才有時間拍了上面那些Phi Phi 島的相片。
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Overall, the visibility for diving in Phuket is not that good. Plus my lungs feel heavy and congested in the 2nd dive so I gave up the 3rd dive due to fearing that I had not completely recovered from the bad cold caught in Shanghai. ( What was I thinking? I only stopped antibiotics the day before diving…  Good that I did not do the 4 days trip to Similan Islands. )

***

既然來了泰國,不按摩就太對不起自己。

第一天在海邊按摩店做泰式按摩,按摩員覺得我的背很僵硬,一直問我是幹嘛的,怎麽會把背弄成這樣?我都不好意思跟她説我是無業遊民。她可能以為我是窮學生,免費幫我做了運動按摩。

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朋友帶去的地方,環境就更好。附設Spa、蒸汽房和露天按摩池。

中國人也終於沒讓俄羅斯人完全霸佔普吉島,在這個按摩地兒,見到一團來自成都的大陸遊客。其中一位老先生,一進桑拿房,就“呸”的一口痰吐在地上!@#¥@《

我很努力的保持面不改色,內心一直祈禱高溫能把細菌都殺死,並且提醒自己千萬別踩到那個地方。最後,第一個憋不住跑出去的是他們自己人。

Spa and massage is of course on the must-do list. And I finally realized that the Bangkok airport massage price is several times of the prices in Bangkok downtown and Phuket!

***

泰國是佛教國家,我們又全是佛教徒,所以也得去看廟。

Thailand is a Buddhist country and we are all Buddhist so we naturally went visiting the local temple.

廟的某些建築元素老讓我想到巴黎聖母院。
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上面左邊是高僧舍利,右邊是之前住持的蠟像。蠟像做的活靈活現的,我一進那房間就覺得毛骨悚然(很尊敬的悚然),還想搞不好是肉身佛。
To the left is relics of some highly realized monk of this temple and to the right is a statue of one of the high monks who passed away already. The wax statue was so vivid that at first I thought it might be a real body (many highly realized beings left their bodies without any signs of decay after they passing away)
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***

最後一天去了珊瑚島,主要是浮潛。
The last day we went to the Coral Island. Great weather, sunny but not too hot.
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年輕就是本錢,青春無敵!她們平均年齡不知有沒有10歲……
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略深的地方有海膽,有朋友不小心踩到,腳跟密密麻麻的都是刺。海膽刺很易碎,拔不出來的,導遊拿檸檬把刺都弄斷,讓我們自己人撒了泡尿,踩到水雷的就只能把腳浸在尿裡,等著尿把體內的刺給泡軟、化掉。晚上回家繼續拿醋泡。我開玩笑説你很愛吃海膽唷?她以前還真的蠻喜歡吃海膽蒸蛋。於是朋友一家人發願,從今年起,全家再也不吃海膽。
The visibility for snorkeling here is great. Have to look out for sea urchins though. A friend of mine unfortunately stepped into one 😦  Their family have an interesting practice of quitting one kind of meat each year to gradually become completely vegetarian. Therefore, naturally, the meat selected for this year is sea urchin.
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很喜歡太陽透過波浪映在海底的光明紋路,常常看著恍神,都沒有在看魚。
Love this light web of wave reflection in the bottom of the sea. Watching its wavy motion can bring me to trance.

***

普吉吃的不錯,從泰國菜到意大利菜,都有好選擇。
A wide selection of good food, ranging from Thai to Italian. And we even found a jelly dessert same as something in Taiwan.

路邊攤還有賣跟台灣一樣的仙草,呵呵。
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很久沒喝酒了,最後一晚友人開了瓶紅酒,就因為我前晚説自己不喝白酒,這麽一來,不好意思又説不喝。果然一開始喝,就沒停的喝,連喝了四種酒,包括我愛極了的Limoncello。

副作用是一開始喝,就停不下來。回家後,把家裡各種酒類全部喝了一遍,當下感到“酒鬼大概就是這樣”。幸好過兩天就到了初一,再次斷除酒杯。

The last night in Phuket I started drinking again, from red wine, to Muscatel, to Mirto and the long-time-no-see Limoncello 🙂

The thirst lasted 2 days after I got back to the freezing Shanghai. I literally savored every single kind of alcohols at home except for vodka and finally quitting all again since the Chinese New Year.  Better stay away from anything that I may get addicted to.