寧波阿育王寺釋迦牟尼佛真身舍利寶珠 Shakyamuni’s Relic at Ashoka Monastery in Ningbo

這完全是誤打誤撞被父親騙去的。他說,有日本和尚要去寧波看“經”。我想:日本人大老遠跑來看的經書,一定是很珍貴之物,所以得搭著一塊去瞧瞧。就慫恿老爸一起去,而且最重要的是,得把我帶上。

到了寧波,見到日本老和尚,才知完全不是看什麼經書。八十五歲的老和尚很有名,之前是奈良藥師寺的住持,日本十大名僧,現在在研究“佛足跡”。這我就沒啥興趣了,無非就是大家思念釋迦牟尼佛,所以刻了一些象徵佛腳印的吉祥圖案在石頭上,讓大家膜拜(我慢貢高)。

Dad told me a Japanese monk is going to visit this monastery unheard of before so I asked him to bring me along. Only on my train ride to Ningbo, through the almighty Internet, I found that this Ashoka Monastery (built at 282 A.D.) housed Shakyamuni’’s relic!

不過,在前往途中查到,這個寺廟藏有釋迦牟尼佛的舍利,這就讓我欣喜不已。

阿育王寺簡介:全國佛教重點寺院,始建於西晉太康三年(公元二八二年),供奉佛國珍寶釋迦牟尼佛真身舍利。寺處“八吉祥六殊勝地”,梵宇琳宮雄傑壯觀,鄮峰巍峨秀麗秘空,千古法席慧炬常燃。早在宋朝寧宗年間,即被策定為天下禪宗五山之一。

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120306 Ningbo趁著老和尚在跟弟子講解他去年找到的石碑時,我迅速脫離大隊人馬,溜去客堂,請問師父能不能讓我去拜一下舍利。客堂師父,幫我連繫了舍利堂的師父,就教我這麽走…那麽走…然後上階梯就會看到一扇木門,上有兩個鐵環,敲一下,裡面師父會幫我開門。

The 85-years old Japanese monk is doing research on Buddha’s foot print. This stone carved with image of foot print and auspicious signs was what brought him here one year ago. He saw something similar in  Korea temple, tracing back to a Japanese temple, leading him here to search for this original copy for a long time among a few monasteries in this area (many things got destroyed or misplaced due to the Culture Revolution).

我這麽容易迷路的人,在諾大寺廟的迴廊裡走來走去,就是見不到半個可以讓我問路的人。只能憑感覺亂走,竟然也見到了一扇木門。敲兩下門環,來了一位老和尚應門,待我入內。裡面就我們兩個人,小小舍利塔兩側是壯觀的清朝大藏經。老和尚點支香讓我供上後,就徑自忙他的事情,放我一人對著舍利跪坐著。

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I went to see the relic while everyone else busy examining that stone again.

上次棲霞寺看佛頂骨舍利是人山人海,多停幾秒鐘就會被警察拉走,朝拜時是很激動的心情。阿育王寺的舍利讓人覺得很平靜,像是回到老家一樣。舍利跟之前看到的都不太一樣,是一顆漂亮銀色珠子,散放著珍珠般的閃爍光彩。跪在前面,想到以前有個叫做釋迦牟尼的人,他證悟了,他不執著一切,卻為我們留下舍利遺骨,讓後人知道依循他的腳步也可以開悟,就很感恩並受到激勵。

坐一會兒後,想想得去歸隊,否則人家會著急(進舍利殿前把手機關了)。原路跑回,到了最外面殿堂門口才看到大夥兒,不知有沒有勞煩他們等很久。他們一見我就說:喔,可以走了。話音一落,就下起豆大的雨點,好像天空憋了很久,直到我們朝拜完才落雨送客。

舍利是什麽顔色?The Color Of The Particular Relic

晚上吃飯,浙江當地人士來了(約好了第二天帶我們去見方丈,今天是日本老和尚迫不及待的先衝去探探路)。聽見我已經去拜過舍利了,就問:妳看到的是什麽顔色?

我有點傻了,不就那個漂亮的銀色嗎?原來據說每個人看到的顔色不一樣的,業障重的看的是黑乎乎的顔色,看成棕色的也有,也有人看到黃色、透明、藍色……長輩説:妳不錯的,看到個銀色。

第二天,我們正式去廟裡朝拜時,當地人説:原來加了個燈(照著舍利)。我心想,那估計是燈光的關係了。這個當地人告訴我他看了個白色,我想:銀色、白色差不多唄。就沒再問人。

下午,竟然有位福德資糧很大的長輩問我是不是還看了個銀色?我說是啊,今天仔細瞧瞧,雖然帶了點金色光輝散發著,但珠子本身還是偏銀色的。不料這位女士竟然跟我說她看的不一樣,她看到的是舍利塔被照的白白的,舍利子是藍綠色,像是地球一樣。我有點暈了,不至於吧?!那個舍利塔黑黝黝的,明明就是黑塔裡有個銀色珍珠光澤般的舍利子。

舍利到底是什麽顔色?

晚上吃飯,又一當地深有佛緣的人説看到了藍色,說是像藍寶石。敢情這兩位女士都是阿彌陀佛淨土的,看出了個璧琉璃……這下覺得有趣了,問了一圈。

爸爸看到黃色,另一位長輩説他以前看到是黃色,但是這次看的跟我一樣是珍珠光澤的銀色(這位長輩不知抄了多少《心經》,家裡每一張毛筆字心經拿出來都是可以裱來掛的)。

再問日本人。隨老和尚來的一對日本夫婦,丈夫有沒有修不知道,太太是每年一個月、三個月、至少一週閉關的。丈夫說看到亮亮的,講不出顔色;老太太説看到的像水晶,是透明的。

老和尚呢?“像彩虹一樣的。彩虹的每一個顔色都有。”(完全的拜倒)

待我過幾年,再去拜拜看。

In short, everyone sees the relic in different colors. In our group, from yellow, white, blue, green-blue like the earth seen from outer space, crystal like…I saw it both times in shimmering silver color with some golden glow, like a pearl. The Japanese old monk saw it in rainbow color. No matter what, it is not like a human bone, but a tiny sphere-like relic stone.

方丈室 Abbot’s Chamber

隔日,我們拜見方丈。大和尚説中國因為文革時毀了很多東西,所以很多關於寺廟的歷史文獻反而是在日本找的到。像是日本有一幅雪村畫的阿育王寺全圖,裡面繪製原有東塔、西塔、上塔、下塔,他之前的方丈才據此興建了東塔還是西塔。

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日本老和尚就是上次回去後,研讀了日本僧人元開撰的鑑真和尚傳記,裡面載有一段鑑真和尚停駐於此阿育王寺的文章,其中提到山上還有佛足跡,故而再次前來。

上塔院 Upper Stupa

我們上山去,山上有個上塔院,平日只有兩位和尚在此靜修。一到門口就覺得這是個閉關的好地方。裡面和尚一個幫我們開門後,就躲的不見人影;另一位七十五歲的老和尚,皮膚白裡透紅,粉嫩粉嫩的,一點黑斑皺紋都沒有,童顏鶴髮大概就是這樣,他説過午不食是很好的。中午一個馬鈴薯,很香甜,沾點醬油吃,連鹽都不需要。

他説我應該去雞足山(彌勒菩薩道場,此行跟彌勒佛挺有緣的),叫我要讀圓瑛法師的《大佛頂首楞嚴經淺釋》——《楞嚴經》恰恰是我佛經閱讀書單上的下一部……可能彌勒菩薩覺得我讀不懂,先請這位老和尚告訴我哪部釋論比較好。這位老和尚說:有人説這部淺釋太淺,那是他們不懂,其實這部淺釋一點都不淺!

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The monastery has four stupa/tower: an east one, a west one, one down and one up. This is the upper one. A great compound up in the mountain, superb for retreat. Only two monks here now.

 

佛腳印 Buddha’s Foot Print

在不到上塔院的地方,石頭上有一個左腳腳印的足跡。不過當地人現在說是彌勒佛的足跡,現在的公案是說天童寺千僧齋時,彌勒佛從雪竇寺(在寧波奉化,彌勒菩薩道場,現有最大的青銅彌勒佛像)去趕齋,在此舍利寶地留下足印,所以石頭前面小佛殿的對聯寫著“半山留佛跡,一步到天童”。

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這幫平均年齡可能近七十歲的日本老人家,自己背著大包小包的東西爬上山去。老和尚很認真的拓印,因為下雨,紙很容易破,他不疾不徐的,治學嚴謹,很了不起。

This is what brought the old monk back again. He read in some historical document in Japan that there are two foot prints of Kashyapa Buddha in the mountains around this monastery. We found the left one in the mid hill. But the monastery monks said this belongs to the Maitreya Buddha.

這是我初見日本老和尚,他就讓弟子複印一份給我的關於阿育王寺的記載:

《唐大和上東征傳》(法務贈大僧正唐鑑真過海大師東征傳)
真人元開撰

安置鄮縣山阿育王寺。寺有阿育王塔。……稱餘姚郡。

其阿育王塔者,是佛滅度後一百年時,有鐵輪王名曰阿育王。役使鬼神建八萬四千塔之一也。其塔非金非玉,非石非土,非銅非鐵,紫烏色刻鏤非常。一面薩埵王子變,一面捨眼變,一面出腦變,一面救鴿變。上無露盤,中有縣鐘,埋沒地中,無能知者。唯有方基,高數仞,草棘蒙茸,罕有尋窺。

至晉泰始元年,并州西河離石(右)人劉薩訶(何)者,死到閻羅王界,閻羅王教令掘出。自晉宋齊梁至於唐代,時時造塔造堂。

其事甚多。其鄮山東南嶺石上有佛右跡,東北小岩上復有佛左跡,立長一尺四寸,前闊五寸八分,後闊四寸半,深三寸,千輻輪相魚印文分明顯示。世傳曰,迦葉佛之跡也。

東方二里,路側有聖井深三尺許,清涼甘美,極雨不溢,極旱不凅。中有一鱗魚長一尺九寸。世傳云護塔菩薩,有人以香華供養。有福者即見,無福者經年求不見。有人就井上造屋至以七寶作材瓦,即從井中水漲流卻。

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宁波月湖 梅花 Plum Blossoms in Moon Lake, Ningbo

搭火车前有两小时的空档。宁波火车站的环境极差,于是在站前搭14路公车到月湖公园,想到湖边坐坐,消磨时间。

After purchasing my ticket, I had two hours to kill before my train ride. So I took 2 RMB public bus to the Moon Lake Park in downtown Ningbo for Just Sitting.

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凑巧园内梅花盛开,于是美美的在月湖赏梅一番。
It happened to be the season (early March, I guess) for plum blossoms. So many trees of flowers in various colors.

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最漂亮的是,风一吹时,片片花瓣飘洒,落英缤纷。适逢今天佛陀神变日(藏历元月十五),深深感受到花雨加持! 
The best part is when countless petals danced around in breeze. Indeed basking in the rain of flowers on Buddha’s Miracle Day (the 15th day of Tibetan new year). Namo Buddhaya.

紹興三天兩夜元旦遊 2 Days In Shaoxing

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自從Wordpress 在中國再度被封後,就沒有辦法用Live Writer 發博文。趁還有兩天在牆外,趕緊貼照片。

Since WordPress got blocked again in China, I have not been able to post via Live Writer. Hence the aspiration now is to post as many backlog pictures as possible while I am beyond the great wall.

元旦是去紹興過的。

紹興是老祖宗的地方。上一次去是1992年,印像最深的就是那青石板路、三輪車、綿綿細雨和也許是我幻想中的文人氣息。

I went to Shaoxing with some friends for the New Year’s Eve and the new year celebration. Some people needed to relax and to have a short retreat from work while some people like myself simply enjoyed a well-planned no-need-to-think-at-all trip.

Shaoxing is where my ancestors lived and the last time (also the only one time) I was here was in winter 1992, so exactly 10 years ago. It is a place famous for breeding advisers in the old days (as chief staff to governors and other high-ranked officials especially in the Ming and Qing dynasty) and wine.

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住的地方是禹陵村,號稱是大禹治水的那個大禹的家鄉,村人同大禹姓姒。

整個村子仿安曼被全部改建成一個旅館。車子停外面,坐那種高爾夫球場的電動車進村入住,村內只有住戶,很安靜。頗有中國式迪士尼主題公園的感覺。

旅館大堂供了一尊騎獅的文殊,還沒入住就覺得挺親切的。

We stayed in an ancient village of descendents of a great Chinese emperor five thousand years ago, Da Yu. In his time, those emperors/leaders dedicated themselves to benefiting people by works such as flood prevention and and they did not pass the helm to their own sons but to the most capable and wholesome person in the country. An amazing era!

Now this village has been turned into a five-star hotel, but they did a good job in preserving the original look. Each house is now a hotel room while larger houses serve as restaurant etc.

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111230 Shaoxing 027村內的餐廳外掛了一排臘鴨臘魚,適逢傍晚,西式打扮的廚子過來收蠟味。另有幾個小姑娘住客,自攜古裝來照相(看模樣還是學生,中國人的富二代有錢的叻~),於是成就了這麽一幅中西混雜、蠟味+宮女的古怪畫面。

This is a funny scene in the late afternoon. The restaurant staff dressed in western style were collecting sun-dried duck etc. on the street while some Chinese rich kids walking by in their self-bringing costumes for photo-taking. Hence a mix of western chefs, dried meat and Chinese palace maid in a small village.

村裡有烏篷船可免費乘坐。12月31日沒啥人,船老大無聊的在打盹,見到我們馬上眉開眼笑的問我們要不要乘船。
Free Wupeng boat ride is offered in the hotel. Wupeng boat is a traditional means of water transportation peculiar to Shaoxing, covered with an awning woven with thin bamboo strips and painted in shiny black, hence the name Wu-peng, literally meaning “black-awning”. Such a beautiful dusk on water.
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這是朋友的“房間”,非常之大。唯一美中不足的是,他們廁所的門是透明的,所以去上廁所前得探頭探腦、算算房間內有沒有人消失,以免自己成了不速之客。
This is the “room” of two friends, also our gathering place for all the evenings.
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這是我們的“房間”——平成街112號,兩層樓的房子,一樓是浴室和臥房,樓上是客廳和書桌。中國特色吧,樓上樓下各有一個超大電視,估計對有些人來說,在床上看電視是日常生活必需的一部分。很喜歡這條街的名稱,“平安成就”,大過年來住還挺吉祥的。
This our “room”, No. 112 of Ping-cheng Street, meaning the street of peace and accomplishment, very auspicious for the start of a year.
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村子夜景 night view of the village
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紹興市中心 Downtown Shaoxing

浙江富,建設好,但文化底蘊足,新舊夾織並存,沒有顧此失彼。
Shaoxing is a major city of Zhejiang province and ZJ is a very rich province. Fortunately although urbanization and economic development grew tremendously fast, they still preserve the traditional stuff pretty well.
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市中心的小丘“蕺山”是個散步和登塔眺望紹興市全景的好去處,旁邊有書院,山腳下有座古樸的大廟,廟外居民區還保持古色古香的樣貌,而且不是做做樣子,生活氣息非常濃厚。
In Jishan hill you can have a nice walk in the park and go up to the tower to have a birds’ eye view of the city.  By the hill is a nice old temple surrounded by a traditional neighborhood. Very kind and simple people. We even walked inside one old couple’s home to take a look at what it is like inside and what they are cooking for their children visiting later for the New Year gathering.
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我們頗為三八的跑到人家家裡張望,大叔大嬸正在為今晚回家吃飯的兒子烹調大餐。

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因為快過年了,街上各處掛滿了臘魚臘鴨風雞。阿彌陀佛。希望這些畜生已經往生極樂世界過個好年。

Because people are preparing food for the coming Chinese New Year in Feb, they use all the possible public areas to hang their fish, duck, chicken to be dried. Poor animals. Otherwise, you would usually see people hang their laundry, even underwear, all around. Definitely a scene only in China.

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不知紹興和雪梨是不是姊妹市,市中心廣場上蓋了一個雪梨歌劇院的山寨版公共建築。旁邊一個小公園倒挺好,有人在唱戲,唯一的觀眾就是閑閑沒事的船伕和偶爾經過拍照的遊客。這裡船伕的娛樂福利真是好。
They also have this funny building looked like the Sidney Opera House in a downtown plaza, right next to an ancient stupa and a park. In the park, there were people singing traditional tunes, with all the oarsman of Wupeng boats gathering together as the only audience. Life can be very simple and enjoyable for some people.

Food
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紹興隨便吃都不錯——千島湖農家菜、紹興飯店正兒八經的領導菜(響鈴好吃)。咸亨酒店是不得不去的“景點”,醉魚特好吃(我是不愛吃魚的人唷,都還忍不住吃完一小塊),臭千張我覺得很好吃,但是同行人都無法接受,個人覺得跟某些歐洲起司相比,其實是很ok的。太雕好喝,順口,10年、15年的都好。一大敗筆是環境跟我上次來的那個小店感覺完全不同,現在搞得跟食堂一般,隨時有旅行團大巴過來湧進百號人的浮躁感。

In general, very good food everywhere. Local dishes are delicious with their unique characters. If you dare to try stinky tofu, there are plenty of many other stinky-xxx local delicacies you can try here. Shaoxing Hotel used to be the best hotel in town and serves decent local dishes. Xian-Feng Restaurant is the most famous one in town where you can sample a bit of everything and purchase their famous wine. Just need to expect a lot of tourists there.

蘭亭 Lan-Ting

很靈的地方,地靈氣清,天下第一的《蘭亭集序》誕生地,果然不一般。
This is the place where Wang Xi-Zhi (303-361), the greatest calligrapher ever, created his best work while having an outing with some friends. Unfortunately we can only see its copy nowadays as the piece was so loved by an emperor that he ordered the original to be kept in his tomb for his accompany. The emperor was the father of Princess Wencheng, i.e. the father-in-law of Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo.
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告別···歸去 Last Walk Around The Hotel

臨走前在酒店又逛了一圈。見到一朵芭蕉花,船伕依然賣力的招呼客人。欸乃一聲過小橋,又是一年。
Before leaving, I took a long walk around the hotel village again. A banana flower stood in the coldness. The boatman continued to show hotel guests around with his warm gesture.  Another year comes.
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閑散的午後於西湖 Sleeping Like A Baby At West Lake

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今天去杭州上古琴課,到的早了。

飽餐一頓農家菜之後,包了艘小船,在西湖上,就著湖光山色、遮陽雲霧、iTouch播著的琴曲,就這麼泛著…泛著…打盹。

西湖真是好地方。

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We arrived at Hangzhou several hours before the qin class.

Very typical thing for Chinese to do is finding a good restaurant and having a good meal. Then,only possible in Hangzhou, we took a walk to the West Lake, hired a boat and simply took a good sweet nap on the boat with the waves and feeble sound of qin from iTouch.

Just floated on the lake, in-between dreams, into nothingness…