2012年薩迦中心普巴金剛大法會 Vajrakilaya Drubcho at Sakya Center

沙壇城 Sand Mandala

十天的大法會，第一天早上3點就開始修法，法王前天才從德里回到德拉敦真是辛苦他了。

H.H. only came back to Dehra Dun on Aug 25th and on 27th 3am already he started the annual Kilaya puja.

3am is way too early for me so I arrived at 3pm when the puja finished already…. Fortunately I still got to see the sand mandala construction and Ratna Vajra Rinpoche came to do the consecration.

下午，喇嘛們建起了壯麗的沙壇城，然後法王子大寶金剛仁波切主法加持。

因為沒有灌頂是不能觀看壇城的，而法會期間會有川流不息的民眾前來頂禮，為了沒受過灌頂的人著想，所以喇嘛們把壇城給罩了起來，到法會最後一天只有僧眾在殿內要毀掉沙壇城時才打開。（因此，我也決定不把完整壇城的圖像刊在網上了～）

Since those who have not received kilaya initiation are not allowed to see the mandala, so the lamas covered the constructed mandala. (Hence I won’t show any pictures of the full mandala here…)

早晨 Morning

每天早上，只要沒有下雨，法王和法王子們都是從法王府走路過來。除了第一天3點，最後一天5點以外，平常都是6點開始修法。

Every morning, as long as it was not raining, HH Sakya Trizin and Dunse Rinpoches would walk from the Podrang to the monastery. Except for 3am on the 1st day and 5am on the completion day, the puja usually started on 6am.

然後依照規矩，大家都在殿外等待，法王和法王子向壇城三頂禮並上座後，大家才能進殿。（我們外國人是屬於沒有禮數規矩的一群…【窘】）

Then HH and Dungse Rinpoches would made prostrations to the mandala before the monks can come inside. Four Dungse Rinpoches were here this year: Ratna Vajra Rinpoche as the Vajra Master (Dorje Lopon), Gyana Vajra Rinpoche, Avikrita Vajra Rinpoche (taking leave from Dzongsar Institute) and Abhaya Vajra Rinpoche.

今年的法會有四位法王子在。分別是擔任金剛上師的大寶金剛仁波切、度母宮的小法王子智慧金剛仁波切，還有美國圓滿宮的無變金剛仁波切（跟宗薩佛學院請了兩週的假）和無畏金剛仁波切兩兄弟。

加持普巴杵 Blessings

很多喇嘛會拿自己的普巴杵來法會加持，所以到了每天大寶金剛仁波切加持普巴的時候，他桌上就會多出一供碗的普巴，法座旁邊還有一大木箱的普巴……

Many lamas/disciples would bring their kilaya for blessings during the puja. So whenever it was time for Rinpoche to bless the kilaya, there would be a bowl full of kilayas on his desk and another huge box of kilayas by his throne.

 

很仔細的大寶金剛仁波切不時會跟法王確認主法的細節。
Ratna Vajra Rinpoche would consult HH for the rituals from time to time.

 

每次休息喝茶、享用薈供前，或是修法期間要戴上法帽之前，法王、法王子、所有僧眾都會互相低頭合十，示意對方請用茶或是請戴上帽子 🙂

They have this cute gesture to ask others to have tea/tsog food or to put on their hats first. HH, Rinpoches and every monk would do this altogether as if they are all peer colleagues.

獻曼達 Mandala Offering

8/29 是吉祥日，佛母也在獻身口意曼達的行列中。法王看見佛母時，非常開心。
August 29 was an auspicious day. Gyalyum Chenmo also came to offer mandala. H.H. looked really happy seeing her 🙂 They looked so sweet together!

修法期間有三個吉祥日，每逢吉祥日就要加修《上師相應法》等法，所以平常約五點半結束，到了吉祥日就要修到七、八點。

There were three auspicious day during the puja. On these days, additional practice such as Guru Yoga would be added. Hence the puja would sometimes last until 19:30 instead of the usual 17:30.

奇旺祖古仁波切來向法王獻曼達和供僧。氣色非常好！
Chiwang Tulku Rinpoche came to offer mandala to HH and made offering to all monks.

之前任新加坡中心住持的堪楚仁波切也特意從達蘭沙拉回來兩天。
Khentrul Rinpoche also came from Dharamsala to make offerings.

戶外修法 Outdoor

每天都會到戶外修法一陣子，會有很多信徒一大早就在外面等著圍觀。
Everyday part of the puja was done outdoor with many lay followers waiting outside since early morning.

 

繞壇城 Circumambulation

法王、法王子和修法的僧眾每天都會一起繞壇城。
Everyday HH, Rinpoches and monks would circumambulate the mandala together.
 

仔細看，有五位喇嘛是拿著法王和法王子的法帽在繞壇城的～
A few monks were carrying Rinpoches’hats while circumambulating. Looks like a special parade.

民眾前來頂禮壇城 Non-stop Visitors

每天修法時，都會有川流不息的民眾進來請法王一一加持和頂禮壇城。有時是一車、一車的學校來……

Everyday during the puja there would be many visitors coming to get blessings from HH and to pay respect to the mandala.

他們只要去法王子那邊，法王子們也會一一加持一下。 除了有時候大寶金剛仁波切主法需要比較專注，這時就會有位體貼的喇嘛站在通往仁波切法座的柱子旁，委婉地堵住民眾前去打擾寶金剛。

中午又一一加持 Individual Blessing Again at Noon Time

然後至為平易近人的法王，從早到晚修法之餘，午休時，還會花上至少半個小時接見所有等在廟外的民眾。

And a huge crowd of people would come during lunch break to get blessings from the tireless HH. He must be quite tired after the 5-6 hour morning puja, yet he would bless every single person coming to him.

民眾離去後，壇城前曼達上的哈達堆得像座山。
A mountain of khatas after people left

大寶法王來訪 Karmapa’s Visit

8/31那天大寶法王來薩迦中心拜見薩迦法王。

HH Karmapa came to Sakya Center to meet HH Sakya Trizin on Aug 31.

詳見/More info: https://bellachao.wordpress.com/2012/09/02/karmapa-to-sakya-center/

吉美欽哲仁波切和貝瑪旺嘉仁波切
Jigmen Khyentse Rinpoche and Pema Wangyal Rinpoche

很高興再次見到吉美欽哲仁波切。他和貝瑪旺嘉仁波切帶著幾名弟子，全程參與了這次法會。

So happy to see Jigme Khyentse Rinpoche again and finally met Pema Wangyal Rinpoche 🙂

堪布和祖古們 Khenpo and tulkus

緊張的維那師 Umdze

每天都有一位不同的僧人擔任領唱（維那師），這是他們的考試。考過了，晚上會給他們獻哈達和頒獎。

待考的一排喇嘛，個個在法會期間都很認真的模擬。

法王説今年大家都考得很好。

Everyday we had a different chant leades(umdze). Actually it was their exam.

So these 10 monks were likely the most nervous ones in the puja. Taking exam in from of HH…

Except for the completion day. The chant leader on the last day was not a student but a real chant leader.

圓滿日的維那師就不是來考試的學僧了。

吹法螺的一排小喇嘛特別可愛。吹奏的時候還會像波浪一樣彎腰轉一圈。

The cute little monks blowing conches with certain moves like a wave

薈供 Tsog

因為每天都有薈供，所以每天都吃得飽飽的。圓滿日的薈供更是極端豐盛，特別是法王和法王子桌上，每個人都有三座小山。

There was tsog offering everyday and a grand one on the completion day. Each Rinpoche had 3 big piles of offerings on their desk!

民眾與市集 The Crowd and The Market

因為人很多，特別是最後一天，寺廟準備了七千份薈供品給他們。拜他們之賜，本來清幽的拉吉普路廟門口前，攤販聚集，儼然成了一個小型市集，從賣日用品、氣球、玩具（這很重要，因為很多家長帶著很小的小孩來）……到小吃，應有盡有。

Since so many people came, some sort of market emerged in front of the monastery gate.

圓滿日的修法更平日又有點不同，除了平日的戶外廣場外，還在炎炎夏日下，去了屋頂上，對著四面八方修了好一會兒。

On the completion day, the puja was performed in several additional sites e.g., the rooftop.

大殿門口也修了一會兒。仁波切身後那道臨時圍牆裡面像小山一樣的，就是法會結束後要發給民眾的薈供品。喇嘛們前一天晚上一定包了很久。

搗毀沙壇城 Dismantling the Sand Mandala

看見法王和法王子一起併肩拆解壇城，真是太幸福了。智慧金剛仁波切都會幫著大寶金剛仁波切一一拿起壇城中的普巴杵，還有指揮僧人幫忙。

It was such a moment to see HH and Rinpoches all worked side by side for this final ritual.

大小佛母、傑尊瑪和小法王子都來了。傑尊瑪聚精會神地看著大寶金剛仁波切搗毀壇城。

Gyalyum Chenmo, Dagmo Kushok, Jetsunma and Akasha Rinpoche all came on the completion day. Jetsunma watching Ratna Vajra Rinpoche dismantling the sand mandala very attentively.

最後是快樂地撒花～ And the puja ended with a lot of petals

民眾大加持 Final Blessings

法會圓滿後，所有的普巴都放在特製大桌上，供民眾頂禮。

聽說以前沒有發明這個方法時，大家推擠得一塌糊塗，每年都還有人衝上來“頂禮”普巴杵，頂到頭破血流。後來小法王子和喇嘛們就研究出這個方法~今年階梯還改成左右兩邊，所以大家可以循序一邊上一邊下，大概是最有秩序的一年了 🙂

Then all kilayas from the puja were placed on a big table so that people can come in line to venerate/get blessings. The monastery also prepared 7000 bags of tsog food for these visitors

三次彩虹 Three Rainbows

法會期間，我們看到三次彩虹。

9/3是平躺在雲上的（攝影：王莉）。

During the puja, we saw rainbows three times.

The fist one was a flat rainbow lying on thick clouds and appearing on Sep 3rd.

Then the day before the completion day, there were two rainbows arching over the Podrang (HH’s residence) and Sakya Hospital, and falling on the Sakya Nunnery towards the right.

圓滿日前一天是橫跨法王府、薩迦醫院、落在尼師院上的雙虹

圓滿日則是在密密雲層中，硬是於傍晚露出一片藍天和一道彩虹（攝影：王莉）
and this is the rainbow on the completion day (Photo by Wang Li)

其他法會相片，可參見：/ More photos at:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150958517470727.770166.886060726&type=1&l=1199d0ab1a

拉吉普的地毯 Rajpur Tibetan Women Center for Handicraft/Carpet

今天去薩迦中心再往上走一點的西藏婦女中心，就是一個迷你藏族村，只有幾戶人家，但有兩座居民禱告的小廟，特色是那裡的地毯編織中心。

Not far away from Sakya Center along the Rajpur Road is this Tibetan Women Center. It is a mini Tibetan settlement with only a few households, two small temples for the residents and a carpet weaving workshop.

兩年前喇嘛帶我來買了一塊地毯，覺得品質非常好，所以這次想來訂做一塊，抗回家。（上次那塊留在印度朋友那裡了）。

小塊的地毯（特別是座墊型的）、衣服、包包都可以在門市商店直接買現成的，但是大塊的得預訂。

I bought a small carpet a couple of years ago and found the quality excellent. So I was thinking of getting a proper one and bring it back home. (The previous one is now with a friend in India.) The smaller ones can be purchased at the showroom while larger ones need to be ordered.

展廳 / their showroom

現在適逢他們忙著準備幾天後達賴喇嘛前來的事情，都去做環境清潔工作了，所以工作坊是空盪盪的。辦公室的東祝很不好意思的告訴我，九月份之後，工人要放假，冬天不在這裡，等明年二月回來之後才有可能做我的地毯——同時牆上已經貼滿了很多待開始的訂單……所以我要是明年夏天能拿到我的地毯就已經算是不錯了。

People are busy cleaning the place as HH Dalai Lama is coming in a few days. And then the workers will be away for winter so my order is in the queue for next year’s production and hopefully I can get it by mid of 2013！

也沒辦法，現在是求大於供的狀態，需求很大，但是年輕人不願意做這種活，所以熟練工有限。

這是原料倉庫和紡紗的地方，毛線來自瓦拉納西那一帶
Raw materials warehouse with wool from Varanasi area
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這是編織中心，左邊那塊大地毯是歐洲人訂製的，由五個人同時編——這個客人家裡一定很大～
The weaving workshop. The big carpet in the left picture was ordered by an European and has 5 people working together for it!

這是辦公室的現貨，大部份都是別人訂做的。右邊小塊的是汽車座墊。
These are the finished products in the office, mostly tailor made stuff. The smaller ones are for car seats.

我訂了一塊這個花色4×6呎的。圖片中的是3×5，一般在印度拿來舖床的。
I ordered this pattern in 4×6 feet – their standard one is 3×5 for bed.

爬到編織廠樓上，後山景觀很好。右邊遠處山頭上是止貢噶舉的閉關中心。
View from the rooftop of the workshop. You can see the Drikung Kagyu retreat center on the hill.

這兩天想著要供花，走回家的路上，在路邊看到這一樹小白花，於是請了幾朵回家供佛。
I have been thinking of offering flowers these 2 days. On my way home, saw a tree full of these cute little white flowers when walking along the Rajpur Road and invited a few of them to join me making offerings to the Buddha 🙂

煮茄子的新方法 New Way to Cook Eggplant

以前煮茄子總是覺得沒有理想的方式。

用煎、炒的，必須要放很多油，很不健康。

用蒸、煮的，茄子又會變得黑黑爛爛的，很難看～

今天去薩迦中心廟裡小店晃盪時（他們的parantha很好吃），看到店主兒子竟然拿著兩隻圓滾滾的茄子在瓦斯爐明火上烘烤。

他說這是印度朋友教他的烹調方式。

This is a new way I learned at the Sakya Center’s grocery shop. (They also sell wonderful paranthas, aloo and rice, YY…)

Today when I was there, the shop owner’s son was having 2 eggplants roasted directly over the fire. The eggplants was not cut at all. He just picked from the stems. Looked really funny.

也真有趣，我以為烤完會乾乾的，因為整個外皮皺得像是小老頭一樣，沒想到切開來看，竟然是鮮嫩多汁。

重點應該是要整個茄子拿去烤火，不能切開，熱度裹在裡面就像是烤箱一樣吧。

When I saw the wrinkled eggplant skin, I though it might be really dry inside, but surprisingly it was tender and juicy. This is definitely much better than pan-fried, as a lot of oil would be needed otherwise.

然後就是很典型的印度菜做法：起油鍋，炒洋蔥、蕃茄，加一點蒜、調味料，然後把刮掉皮、剁碎的茄子加進去炒，1－2分鐘就可起鍋。完全不像平常炒茄子一樣要放很多的油。

Then it is very standard Indian way of cooking. Stir fry chopped onion and tomato, add garlic and masala seasoning, and lastly add the chopped eggplant (excl. skin) and cooked for 1-2 minutes.

茄子泥很爽口，特別是洋蔥沒有炒太軟，就著印度薄餅吃是絕配！

Great dipping for chapati bread. I especially like it with not-over-cooked onion slices 🙂

薩迦中心頒獎和忿怒蓮師法會 Sakya Center and Guru Drakpo Puja

今天上午薩迦中心喇嘛和尼師院的尼師全員到齊，據說是夏安居圓滿後，依照往例向薩迦法王獻曼達，然後法王會給學習成績優異的學僧頒獎。下午則是法王帶領薩迦中心共修忿怒蓮師。

This morning all monks and nuns at Sakya Center and Sakya Nunnery gathered together. It is said that they always offer mandala to H.H. Sakya Trizin after completing the summer retreat. Then H.H. would give awards to those with good exam results. In the afternoon, H.H. led the monks doing a Guru Drakpo puja.

第一次看到法王獻曼達耶～ / First time seeing H.H. offering mandala 🙂

堪布向法王獻曼達 / Khenpo offering mandala to H.H. Sakya Trizin

然後法王給學僧頒獎，大大小小的僧尼～ / H.H. giving awards to various monks and nuns at all ages

接著下午修忿怒蓮師。法王主法，大寶金剛仁波切也在。雖然我今天散亂的不得了，但還是覺得極受加持～

Then the afternoon Guru Drakpo puja was presided by H.H. Sakya Trizin. H.E. Ratna Vajra Rinpoche was also there. Although I was very distracted today, still felt much blessing showering down.

下午的亮點是虛空金剛仁波切和傑尊瑪也來參加法會，分別是兩歲半和五歲的他們頗投入的跟著爸爸比劃……超級可愛的一對寶貝。
The afternoon highlight was that both Akasha Rinpoche and Jetsunma joined the puja. Akasha Rinpoche is only 2.5 years old, yet they surely know what to do during the ritual! Super cute on the throne together 🙂

Karmapa To Sakya Center During the 2012 Kilaya Puja 普巴金剛法會期間，大寶法王到訪薩迦中心

Yesterday was the 6th day of the annual Vajrakilaya puja at Sakya Center. H.H. Karmapa came to Sakya Center to visit H.H. Sakya Trizin (Previously Karmapa had received the kilaya initiation from Sakya Trizin). He is in Dehra Dun area for a few days and stays in the Sakya Nunnery.

昨天是薩迦年度普巴法會的第六日，大寶法王來薩迦中心拜見薩迦法王（噶瑪巴之前曾經從薩迦法王處接過普巴灌頂）。 大寶法王這幾日在德拉敦附近的一個藏民村傳法，居住在薩迦尼師院裡。

Karmapa arrived after the morning puja completed. H.H. Sakya Trizin had gone upstairs for the lunch break. H.E. Dungse Rinpoches and Gyalyum Chenmo went receiving Karmapa.

大寶法王是在上午法王、法王子和僧眾修完法之後到的，法王已經到樓上休息了。法王子和大佛母出來迎接大寶法王。

Karmapa first came to the main shrine hall.
大寶法王首先來到大殿。

making prostrations to the shrine / 跟壇城三頂禮……

offering khata / 獻哈達……

some chanting I can’t remember… but I had been eyeing for that welcoming rice for the rest of the day（Gyana Vajra Rinpoche did not come to the puja in the afternoon so that rice had been there on his table for the whole afternoon. And I finally got some by begging the lama cleaning the shrine room after the puja completed in the evening)
記不得唸了什麽，不過從這時起我就看著那碗酥油飯流口水（因為大寶法王有吃一點，一直挨到傍晚法會結束人全走光了，才跟一位師姐去跟整理場地的喇嘛討幾口那個飯－－法王子智慧金剛仁波切下午沒有過來修法，所以那碗飯一整個下午都一直放在那個法座上）

Two Dunse Rinpoches offered mandala to Karmapa
兩位法王子跟大寶法王獻曼達：

H.E. Sakya Dungse Ratna Vajra Rinpoche offering mandala to H.H. Karmapa
薩迦法王子大寶金剛仁波切向噶瑪巴獻曼達

Two younger generation bodhisattvas together…_/\_
有師姐説看到這張相片很感動。兩位年輕一輩的菩薩為了我們而來到這輪迴世間度我們……

H.E. Sakya Dungse Gyana Vajra Rinpoche offering mandala to H.H. Karmapa
小法王子智慧金剛仁波切向噶瑪巴獻曼達

Karmapa was sitting on Gyana Vajra Rinpoche’s throne during the Kilaya Puja these days. Before he left, he found something interesting at the table and checked on that thing for a short while.
大寶法王坐的是這幾天普巴金剛法會時法王子智慧金剛仁波切坐的法座。他要下法座前，不知發現法王子桌上有什麽有趣的東西，饒有興味地把玩了一下。

And then Karmapa went up see H.H. Sakya Trizin and they had lunch together. (Sorry, no pictures of them together…) while Gyalyum Chenmo had lunch with Karmapa’s sister.

然後大寶法王上樓拜見薩迦法王，他們一起用餐。（抱歉，福德不夠，沒能看見他們兩人在一起的畫面～）

薩迦法王的佛母嘉嫞千嫫則和噶瑪巴的姊姊一起用餐。

After lunch, three Sakya Dungse Rinpoches and H.E. Gyalyum Chenmo saw H.H. Karmapa off and then we started the afternoon Kilaya puja again.

飯後，三位薩迦法王子和法王的佛母給大寶法王送行，之後我們就開始下午的普巴法會。

Sakya Dungse Gyana Vajra Rinpoche and Karmapa
薩迦度母宮法王子智慧金剛仁波切和大寶法王相互頂禮

Sakya Dungse Abhaya Vajra Rinpoche and Karmapa
薩迦圓滿宮法王子無畏金剛仁波切和大寶法王相互頂禮

Sakya Gyalyum Chenmo and Karmapa
大佛母嘉嫞千嫫和大寶法王

So happy to see Karmapa here. Last year in Washington he suddenly showed up. This year, again, out of the blue he came to Sakya Center. Much much blessings showered down.

第二次見到大寶法王，真是很開心。去年去華盛頓時，意外發現他在台上一起受法。今年來參加法會，竟然也能見到他。中午吃完飯後去繞行大殿，想到大殿上有兩位“法王”就覺得加持滿溢，開心，開心！！

***

Add a picture of the two H.H., posted by Lama Tsewang Rinzin
這張不是我照的，不過總算是有喇嘛po了一張兩位法王的相片：

Photo by Lama Kunsang Gyaltso

普巴金剛法會/More on the kilaya puja：bellachao.wordpress.com/2012/09/14/vajrakilaya/

Tso Pema 蓮師聖湖：措貝瑪

有人帶著去的好處就是自己完全不用花腦筋，又可以很悠閑地一天就朝拜完主要的聖地。

This was a one day trip to this holy lake associated with Padmasambhava. Thanks to a friend so that I got to effortlessly cover all the major sites in a rather leisure way.

蓮師洞 Guru Rinpoche Cave

先去山上的蓮師洞，附近有個頗有靈氣的小湖。

一下車就有人在販售風馬旗。一條龍服務，買完旗子後，旁邊就有個喇嘛可以幫旗子念經什麽的，然後有印度人可以幫你到蓮師洞旁爬上去掛旗子。

Debora recommended me to stay somewhere around here if I come for more than a day. Indeed a very serene place. It would be wonderful to do a retreat here.

There is a small lake nearby (not Tso Pema), also looked quite “holy”.

蓮師洞，顧名思義就是蓮師修行過的洞。這裡有兩隻很有靈性的狗，我們還不知道怎麽走的時候，小白狗就走在我們前面帶路，帶我們往下走到岩洞裡。

等我們在蓮師像前面修法時，它也陪在旁邊，很親密地依著人。

There are two hospitable and kind dogs. While I was still hesitating which way to go, a white dog came as if he was guiding me to go down into the main cave.

While we were doing our practices inside, it also lovingly accompanied us there for almost the whole session until more people came inside.

旁邊還有一個小洞，是曼達拉娃佛母和蓮師一起修的地方？記不太得了。

Linked to the main cave is another smaller cave.  Too bad that I can’t remember the history behind.

Then out of the cave, we did a Kora around the cave. The two dogs came to lead us again!

To the other side of the hill, there is another cave where it housed a footprint of Guru Rinpoche.

 

然後繞著蓮師洞轉山，可以走到後面一個有蓮師腳印的岩洞。兩隻小狗又很盡責的在我們前面引路。

There are many retreat huts/caves around.  We saw some monk/nun carrying barley flours up to the mountain, probably back to their retreat place.

一路上有很多依著岩洞建立的閉關小屋。在山上隱修的僧尼很辛苦地自己扛著青稞粉上山。

朋友眼尖，看到這隻大概才剛出生的小老鼠。只有一個指節的拇指大小，還渾身濕漉漉的，給它吃麵包碎片都還不會吃。

A baby mouse, only the size of half of my thumb. So young that it did not seem to know how to eat solid food yet.

措貝瑪 Tso Pema

就是原本曼達拉娃公主的父王要燒死蓮花生大士的那個湖，不過反而因為蓮師在此顯現種種神跡而收服了這個小王國信仰佛法。

湖邊有個可以餵魚的地方。魚兒很多很多，看著它們不斷張口索取食物，覺得很悲哀。。。不幸投生作魚的話，即使是投生在這種每天都吃得很飽又不擔心有人會把它們宰來吃的地方，但是出於業力，每天想的還是只有吃，也不太可能持個咒什麽的。這樣想想，就覺得要好好珍惜自己的人身。不然每天吃飯、睡覺，跟畜生也沒什麽差別。

The lake where Padmasambhava performed miracles and tamed the king/people of Princess Mandarava’s kingdom.

There are so many fishes in the lake. Seeing them seeking endlessly for food is such a sadening thing.  They are among the most fortunate fishes in the world – plenty of food available in a safe environment. Yet they can not do something meaningful such as helping each other or doing some practice. All they know is looking for more food…  very rarely can I think of the downfalls of taking  rebirth in the animal realm and this is one of the few rare moments.

朋友可以拿這湖水來洗臉。我分別心重，做不到。

很湊巧的是在湖邊碰到了在Spiti一起接法的師兄。就是她跟我們説到吉布巴的聖地，我們之前才去朝聖的。離開Spiti後就一直沒有聯絡（因為她沒有手機），沒想到在這裡撞見，還是她在措貝瑪的最後一天，過來餵鴨子的幾分鐘內給我看見了。這也算是有緣千里來相會。

Quite amazingly ran into Semzang here. She told us about the Driburi pilgrimage back in Spiti and we did not see each other for all these days (she does not have a mobile). Just during this short time by the lake to feed the fishes, she happened to come to feed the ducks on her last day in Tso Pema. Speaking of karmic connections, this must be one of them.

湖邊有大蓮師像，還有好幾個廟。也有很大的錫克廟，因為他們認為蓮師是他們的一位聖人。

There are a giant Guru Rinpoche statue and many monasteries by the lake, including a big Sikh temple (Sikhs also consider Padmasambhava to be a saint of theirs).

自生度母像 Self-arising Tara Image

翁珠仁波切的廟旁邊有一個自生度母像，就在一株菩提樹旁。

This is by a bodhi tree near Ontrul Rinpoche’s monastery.

曼達拉娃洞 Mandarava Cave

曼達拉娃修行的岩洞。這裡的尼師會講很多很多的故事，岩壁上有手印、寶冠印……她説這是曼達拉娃和蓮師初見的地方，慕斯唐的Lo-gekar則是第一次蓮師、曼達拉娃、耶喜措嘉會面的地方。聽到Lo Gekar就很高興，聽到耶喜措嘉去過慕斯唐就更高興了。話說回來，作為第一位伏藏師取藏的地方，耶喜措嘉曾經去過那裡，也就一點也不奇怪了。

這幾個指印很清楚，像是有人把岩石當麵團捏了一把的樣子。

If you can speak Tibetan, the nun looking after this place can tell you all sort of things, from the history of the cave to the various prints on the rock – hand prints, imprints of ritual crowns…

This hand print is the most visible one. You can place your hand over it, as if you could take a grip of the rock as a dough.

前一晚沒睡，去的路上在暈車，回比爾的路上也在暈車。一路暈睡的回程途中，一時坐起，恰好看見了這個讓人感覺充滿加持的景觀。

I was car sick all the way to Tso Pema, and again car sick all the way back to Bir.  This amazing scene showed up during the few seconds I happened to sit up on the way back. A beautiful end to a day full of blessings.

My Lotus at Mahabodhi :-)

朋友月初在菩提迦耶，我请他帮我供些莲花。那天，他说不是莲花季节，帮我供了些别的花。
隔日，却不知如何见到这支紫莲，遂代我献给释迦牟尼佛。

一些小事就让我高兴很久～～  谢谢好朋友！！

I asked a friend to help offer some lotus in Bodhgaya earlier this month. That day, he told me it is not the lotus season so some other kind of flowers were offered instead. Yet the very next day he came across this beautiful purple lotus and offered that to Shakyamuni for me. Thank you, my dear friend!!

禄頂堪千仁波切、禄顶堪仁波切、康萨霞仲仁波切在菩提树下修十六罗汉法会。
H.E. Luding Khenchen Rinpoche, Luuding Khen Rinpoche and Kangsar Shabdrung Rinpoche leading the 16 Arhat Puja under THE bodhi tree.  Bodhgaya, March 2012

Sikkim Pilgrimage 2011 錫金朝聖

Since most people needed to catch their flights, we only did a two-day trip out of Gangtok after the teachings. Hope I will get a chance to stay longer next time.
因為有半數人要趕飛機，所以只有兩日遊。下次要自己待久一點。

Temi Tea Garden 茶園

After leaving Gangtok, we had breakfast and tea at Temi, the only tea garden in Sikkim and considered one of the best in India and in the world.
離開甘托克的第一站是在這裡吃早餐，當然，還有喝茶。這是錫金唯一產茶的地方，也是號稱印度、甚至全世界最好的紅茶產地之一。

I asked lama to buy me this snack after seeing an Indian chewing it in a tiny grocery shop. I suspected the Indian took something similar to betelnut wrapped in a leave, but the lama got me something sweet.  Ani-la forbid me eating it out of concern for my health so I only sample- tasted some of the ingredients. Like the rose flavor jelly sweets 🙂

看到印度人在雜貨店買這個吃，用樹葉包某些東西捲成一個小包吃，很像我們的檳榔。請喇嘛幫我買了一個。喇嘛說有兩種，他幫我買的這個是甜的，但是尼師不準我吃，怕我拉肚子。葉子沒吃，還是偷嘗了一點裡面的東西，有玫瑰味的紅色軟糖、椰肉乾、甘草粉…香香的，很好吃。

 

Giant Guru Rinpoche Statue at Namchi 36公尺高的巨大蓮師像


Ravanla Monastery and Buddha Park / 惹旺拉寺與佛陀公園

大寶金剛仁波切今天恰好在Ravanla學校給學生做文殊口傳和一些其他行程，安排我們中午一起在Ravanla寺吃中飯。寺廟主人是相片中最左邊的那位祖古，真是不好意思，把他名字給忘了，只記得他來自有名的大成就者家族，是尼雅Nyak氏的後人。

大寶金剛仁波切到的很晚，所以我們饑腸轆轆等了很久。這裡的香蕉超級好吃，跟平常那種催熟早摘的完全不同，不甜卻帶著類似芭蕉的香氣。

Ravanla is building a Buddha Park 小鎮正在建設一個佛陀公園，以後可供人遊憩。

 

Tashiding 扎西頂




It is said that the whole Sikkim is a holy place and Tashiding is the most sacred place among Sikkim. Jamyang Khyentse Chokyi Lodro was cremated at Tashiding and the golden one is his stupa. Even thinking of soon to see this stupa made my way up so joyful.

整個錫金都是聖地，而扎西頂又是全錫金最神聖的地方。二世欽哲確吉羅卓仁波切就是在扎西頂火化，金色這尊是他的舍利塔。想到馬上能夠朝拜這個佛塔，剛剛爬階梯上到廟裡來時，一路歡快雀躍不已。

There is also one ‘Thong-Wa-rang-Dol’, ‘Liberation by mere seeing’ stupa here.
這裡還有一個“見即解脫塔”，不過忘了是哪一座，記得是白色金頂的。

This old man, Garpa, came from my beloved Kyegu since his twenties and spent the past fifty years carving mani stones in this holy place. His works include various mantras and Buddha images. He kindly showed us around to see various sacred sites/imprints of Guru Rinpoche and dakinis. He is over seventy years old now but can still walk really fast.

這位年過七十的老人家來自我摯愛的玉樹，二十多歲來此，五十年在這聖地雕刻瑪尼石。為我們介紹各個特別地方，蓮師腳印、空行母聚集處等種種聖跡。他仙風道骨，健步如飛，還一直説他也是薩迦的。

Guru Rinpoche Long Life Cave at Tashiding 蓮師長壽岩穴

It was completely dark and rainy when we walked down the hill toward this cave. I was nagging silently that if not for waiting for Ratna Vajra Rinpoche for lunch, we could have arrived while there were still sunlight (some other people were nagging out loud…). When it was my turn to squeeze inside the cave (the passage is so narrow that only one person is allowed to try each time), I heard my jean ripped while passing through the sharp edge of rocks. The ripping was right on my butt that if I can tear off the bottom parts, they would become perfect hot pants for the beach. Now I was really happy that it was so dark that nobody can see this small disaster.

走山路下來這洞時，天已全黑，還下小雨。我只有一個小不拉幾的手指粗的手電筒，什麽都看不清。一邊走心裡一邊碎碎念，誰排去吃中飯的，不等仁波切就不會搞到那麼晚才摸黑走山路。待輪到我鑽進洞時（洞口很小，一次只能一人入），才剛抬腿就聽見牛仔褲啪唧一聲裂了——裂在屁股上，把褲管扯掉就是超短的熱褲。當時馬上感謝諸佛菩薩保佑，還好天黑沒人看得見。

事後聽說還真有人滑倒在泥濘山徑上，不過據她說摔下時，覺得有護法幫忙抬了一下，人完全沒事，而且有一邊屁股竟然沒有著地。神奇吧。

 

Pemayangtse Monastery 貝瑪楊澤寺
This is one of the oldest monasteries in Sikkim. 錫金最老的寺院。

 

A Holy Lake 聖湖  — Khecheopalri Lake?
 

Yuksam
This was the first capital of Sikkim, where the first Chogyal of the Kingdom of Sikkim was consecrated in the 1641 AD by three learned lamas.
錫金第一個首都。史載錫金第一個國王就是在此處由三位大成就喇嘛授灌登基的。有三法座的石臺，腳印和神木。

One Sikkim School 路過的錫金小學

Another Holy Lake 又一神湖

Guru Rinpoche Cave 蓮師洞
There are four Padmasambhava caves in Sikkim. This one, Khado Sangphug, is the only one accessible by car. Secret Cave of Dakinis, simply love the name! There is also hot spring right outside by the river.
錫金四個蓮師洞只有這個是車子可通，走一下就能到，叫做“康卓桑埔”，空行密穴，聽名字就覺得很讚。洞前河邊有溫泉。

 

Gangtok 甘托克

View of Gangtok city from cable car
纜車看錫金首府甘托克

Sikkim Legislative Assembly where H.H. Sakya Trizin gave a public teaching on “Basic Understanding of Buddhism” in October
錫金立法會，有一天法王在這裡給大眾公開開示，講“佛教基礎”

Tsuklakhang Royal Chapel and Monastery, where Jamyang Khyentse Chokyi Lodro and Khandro Tsering Chodron used to live
錫金王室家廟，以前二世欽哲確吉羅卓和佛母康卓慈玲秋諄就住在這兒

Namgyal Institute of Tibetology housing a rich depository of Tibetan literature, rare manuscripts, paintings, thangkas, statues and religious objects and other works of art and history
南嘉藏學研究中心，博物館可以看到很多文物

Chorten Monastery where Dodrupchen Rinpoche resides with many many cats
多智欽仁波切駐錫的秋登寺，裡面貓特多，受到上至仁波切、下至眾喇嘛的寵愛

 

This cat is not from Chorten Gonpa but belongs to a friend. It treats me like a member of the family, or more precisely, a cushion of the house.
這隻貓是朋友家的，完全把我當成自家的座墊。

Also learned how to make Tibetan barley wine, chiang 🙂
還見到朋友母親在屋頂釀酒，主要是供養多智欽仁波切寺廟做修法甘露用

Sikkim definitely offers the best Tibetan food, especially their family cuisine, simply delicious! The famous fireball chilies look deceivingly cute and I did not dare to try until reaching Manduwala.
錫金藏族菜是我吃過最好吃的，有筍，有蘑菇腐乳泡菜…特別是家常菜，想來還是流口水。著名的火球小辣椒則一直沒膽嘗試，反而是到了Manduwala才大膽吃了。

2011/10/30 大寶金剛仁波切錫金三忿怒尊灌頂 Ratna Vajra Rinpoche Bestowing Empowerment of Three Wrathful Deities in Sikkim

法王教學結束的下午安排了法王子大寶金剛仁波切給大眾灌頂。

兩天前喇嘛和當地義工就開始搭建場地，主要是設立廟前廣場的層層圍欄。

我問為什麼呢？

喇嘛說，藏人跟漢人不同。我們漢人最喜歡灌財神，藏人則第一是愛長壽佛，第二就是這三忿怒尊（除障）。雖然錫金本地也沒多少人口，不過他們預計會從各地湧入很多人，為了維持秩序，所以必須設立欄杆。

After H.H. Sakya Trizin completed the teachings at noon time, H.E. Dungse Ratna Vajra Rinpoche bestowed a combined empowerment of Three Wrathful Deities to the public in the afternoon.

The monks and volunteers started building some fences a couple of days ago. I asked why. They said, unlike Chinese people who love wealth deity empowerment, for Tibetans, the most attractive one is Tse-wang (Amitayus) and the 2nd one is this Three Wrathful Deities for dispelling obstacles.  Therefore, some measures must be taken to ensure safety for the numerous participants and Rinpoche.

果然來了巨多的人，肯定過一萬，擠在錫金哦寺不大的地方中。

寺犬都沒有落腳的地方，於是跑來唯一有一小塊空地的喇嘛區。有福報的狗，生在寺廟，常得大師們加被。

Indeed, for such a small place, over tens of thousands people started rushing in since the morning while we were still having teachings. Even the dog cannot find a place to lay its feet and exhaustedly rested within the area reserved for monks when the event started.

法會結束後，從無著金剛仁波切開始，大寶金剛仁波切為參與會眾一一加持。
Ratna Vajra Rinpoche was very kind. He gave blessings to the public one by one, starting from Dungse Asanga Vajra Rinpoche.

這時，出現了很吉祥的彩虹。
And a rainbow appeared right at this moment.

今天法王教學圓滿，大寶金剛仁波切的灌頂也結束，主辦的貢噶雲登喇嘛似乎終於鬆了一口氣。
Lama Kunga Yongten Hotchotsang, the organizer of H.H.’s programs in Sikkim and this empowerment, seemed really happy and relaxing.

因為人實在多，大寶金剛仁波切一一加持了很久。信眾也虔敬供養寺廟，並向寺廟登記做各種經懺法會。

Since there were so many participants, it took Rinpoche a long time to give everyone individual blessings. It was said that even more people – over 30K – came to H.H.’s Tsewang two days later.

聽說再過兩天法王給公開長壽灌頂時，人會更多，實在很難想像還能怎麽塞人進來。在今天眾人推擠搶上前去領受加持之下，手臂粗的竹竿圍欄就已經有多處被弄斷了。

果然，據說法王灌頂那天湧進三萬多人。

塔澤堪仁波切和霞仲仁千巴究仁波切也來到屋頂上一起看彩虹。圓滿的一天。
H.E. Thartse Khen Rinpoche and Shabdrung Rinchen Paljor Rinpoche also joined us on the rooftop to watch the rainbow which lasted for quite a while. What a wonderful day 🙂

2011/10 薩迦法王錫金金剛瑜伽母灌頂教學圖集 H.H. Sakya Trizin Bestowing Vajrayogini Initiation And Teachings in Sikkim

這是教學圓滿那天，祿頂堪千仁波切向法王獻上身口意曼達。

在大家唸誦獻曼達祈請文期間，法王數次伸手想要接過堪千仁波切手捧的曼達盤。

再過幾天就要八十一大壽的堪千仁波切只是面帶微笑的看著法王，堅持自己在沒有侍者攙扶的情況下一直捧著曼達盤，直到祈請文結束。

His Eminence Luding Khenchen Rinpoche offering thanksgiving mandala to His Holiness the Sakya Trizin upon the completion of H.H.’s teachings at Ngor Gompa (Sa-Ngor-Chotshog Center), Sikkim, October 30, 2011

Very touching and heart-melting to see that His Holiness extended his hands several times, wanting to receive the mandala and spare His Eminence from holding it, while His Eminence insisting standing with mandala on hands throughout the prayer:-) (Khenchen Rinpoche was going to celebrate his 81th birthday in a week. )

 

尊貴的薩迦法王授予勝樂金剛大灌頂、金剛瑜伽母灌頂與教學
H.H. Sakya Trizin bestowing Chakrasamvara initiation, Vajrayogini blessings and teachings

法王子大寶金剛仁波切與薩迦法王 H.E.  Dungse Ratna Vajra Rinpoche and H.H.

法王子無著金剛仁波切與薩迦法王，勝樂金剛灌頂日， 2011年10月20日
H.E. Dungse Asanga Vajra Rinpoche and H.H. Sakya Trizin during the Chakrasamvara initiation, October 20th, 2011

左到右：祿頂堪千仁波切、法王子大寶金剛仁波切、塔澤堪仁波切、法王子無著金剛仁波切；大寶金剛仁波切的佛母達嫫·姑秀·卡嬁，薩迦法王的佛母嘉嫞千嫫
Left to Right: H.E. Luding Khenchen Rinpoche, Dungse Ratna Vajra Rinpoche, Thartse Khen Rinpoche, Dungse Asanga Vajra Rinpoche; Dagmo Kushog Kalden and Gyalyum Chenmo

祿頂堪千仁波切下午給予複講和引導實修
H.E. Luding Khenchen Rinpoche bestowing revision teachings and leading group practices in the afternoon



堪千仁波切複講時，  大寶金剛仁波切示範如何獻曼達
H.E. Ratna Vajra Rinpoche demonstrating mandala offering during Khenchen Rinpoche’s revision

大寶金剛仁波切傍晚為外國人做英文複講和帶領實修
H.E. Ratna Vajra Rinpoche bestowing revision teachings and leading practice sessions to foreigners in English

錫金哦寺堪布與祿頂堪千仁波切
Khenpo of the Sikkim Sa-Ngor-Chotshog Center and Luding Khenchen Rinpoche

十日教學圓滿當天，無數多人向法王獻曼達
Many devotees offering mandalas to H.H. upon the completion of the 10-day precious teachings, Sikkim, October 30, 2011

塔澤堪仁波切與法王 H.E. Thartse Khen Rinpoche and H.H Sakya Trizin

祿頂堪千仁波切與法王
H.E. Luding Khenchen Rinpoche and H.H Sakya Trizin, Sikkim Sa-Ngor Monastery, October 30th, 2011