在錫金的中秋節:有機蔬食和隆德寺 Rumtek and Organic Veggie For the Mid-Autumn Festival in Sikkim

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Yesterday was the Mid-Autumn Festival for Chinese. Instead of moon cake and heavy feast, I had a feast with exotic organic vegetables, plus a visit to the Rumtek Monastery.

The day started with a 7am trip to the Sunday Farmers’ market in Gangtok where farmers in the neighboring areas would bring fresh produce to sell here.

因為星期天,附近農民都會帶菜過來賣,所以朋友早上7點就帶我去見識一下甘托克的農夫市集。
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圓圓紅紅的是錫金有名的“火球”辣椒,看著可愛,卻是世界上最辣的辣椒品種之一。

我是只要看到綠葉菜就很高興,所以錫金對我簡直就是天堂。印度其他地方往往只有小黃瓜、蕃茄、洋蔥、花菜、胡蘿蔔、菠菜、茄子,這裡從捲心菜、杭白菜、莧菜、香菜(芫荽)、西洋菜、白蘿蔔、南瓜、胡瓜……還有各式各樣不知名的野菜,看得我眼花繚亂的。

最重要的是,有我很愛的筍、蕨菜(大姐説共有五種)、龍須菜(現在知道了,其實就是瓜苗)和菌菇。

On top of the famous fireball chilies, there are all kinds of green vegetables, indeed a heaven for me! With my favorite bamboo shoots, ferns…(mushroom would only arrive after ~9am)

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好像是酒糟之類的東西,擁葉子包著販賣,看著就很討人喜歡。錫金是很注重環保的地方,這裡購物時給的袋子一律是紙袋或環保袋,沒有塑料袋。
Not sure what is this lady selling, but the packing looks nice and environmental friendly!

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朋友看到這個菜農剛擺出的小苦瓜很新鮮,所以來挑苦瓜。兩顆橢圓形橘綠色的果兒,也是苦瓜的一個品種~  右邊那個豆莢原來也是能吃的,我們挑苦瓜的時候,豆莢被甘托克蔬菜店老闆全部抱走了(這裡是批發市場),說是可以拿來生吃。

Two types of small bitter gourds. I have never seen that yellowish oval shape specie before. They looked more like fruits to me.

The giant bean pods are also edible. The lady purchasing them all (probably a local shop owner for retail) said people eat them raw.

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這個很像風信子的花兒是時令特產,朋友説是帶苦味的。買了一點回去,加了點洋蔥、姜、蕃茄炒給我吃,果然花的部份微苦,不過沒有苦瓜那麽苦, 花梗的部份倒是很香甜。
These Hyacinthus-like flowers are also edible. Stir-fried with onion, ginger and tomato, the flowers tasted a bit bitter while the stems juicy and refreshing like asparagus.

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這是蕁麻的葉子(左)和花(右)。因為是密勒日巴尊者在山上禪修時的唯一食物,所以我也弄了一把蕁麻葉回來,還沒吃到就是了。
Nettles leaves and flowers. A must-try for Milarepa admirers 🙂

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被拿來食用的花還很多,大黃花猛一看有點像金針花,不過我猜是某種瓜類的花。右邊那個乾乾的小花看來口感不會很好。左下紅色的是香蕉花。右下是筍,筍兒都是長條形的,非常鮮。

Some more flowers and fresh bamboo shoots. The red ones are banana flowers.

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去年在錫金吃到這個形狀的香蕉之後,覺得讚的不得了。我是從來不會主動買香蕉吃的人,但是這個形狀的香蕉有股誘人的芳香,平常那種黃色長年不壞的香蕉完全沒得比。

中間上面扁扁的蘋果看著很漂亮,竟然是福建來的。怪不得漂亮,亮晶晶的一層蠟吧。希望本地這些健康美味的有機農產品不會被進口的不自然大型農場產品取代掉。

最後是買了芭樂、木瓜和我的新歡——石榴。

Sikkim banana is very delicious with nice flavor, unlike the dull yellow ones we usually get in the ‘developed countries’ supermarkets. Pomegranate is my new love while the organic Bhutanese apples (even partially red inside) have been accompanying me since day one of this trip.

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這個是不丹來的有機蘋果,不是我們買的。從我來錫金的第一天晚上説好吃後,阿姨就放了一盆在我房間, 不時補上幾顆。每顆都長得不一樣,有的紅色果皮還會紅到果肉裡。不但甜,而且香氣距離一公尺都聞得到。

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最後離開市場時,看到有一車剛到的農民正要下貨(同一村的人會一起包車過來),於是搶到兩把之前沒有見過的白花。我在對街看見這花就衝了上前,到了花的面前,因為實在太完美了,一度悵然以為“原來是塑膠花”……但是再摸摸,真的是鮮花,有股野薑花家族的味道。

早起的鳥兒有蟲吃,雖然這個市集會持續一天,但是要買到新鮮蔬果或珍稀花卉,還是得趁早來,不然好東西很快就會被甘托克的商家給掃光。

Got these amazing white flowers after leaving the market. Freshly arrived with a jeep full of various products probably brought by people from the same village. We took most of them even before they reach the marketplace 🙂

***

吃完中飯後,去了對山的隆德寺。就是十六世大寶法王離開西藏後所建立的寺廟,土地是當年錫金國王供養的七畝地。

After lunch, we went to Rumtek Monastery. Local people said there was huge rain last night so much so that they were worried about their houses would get washed away! But it was sunny when we arrived.

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大殿入口上方的五隻雪獅很可愛,每一隻表情都不太一樣。
Cute snow lions, each with its own cute expression.
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朋友嘲笑我朝拜隆德寺具有特別業障,去年是沒帶護照,今年是帶了護照卻沒有帶上錫金通行證,還好他特別問了一聲,所以開到一半又折回去拿。晚點到的好處是正好碰到修護法的時間,所以瑪哈嘎拉護法室和多傑綽洛(忿怒蓮師相之一)室都在修法。還朝拜了度母室,以及最重要的:十六世大寶法王的舍利金塔 _/\_。

喇嘛很慈悲的讓我們進去隔間裡朝拜,可以直接頂禮舍利塔,還讓我碰了一條平常加持寶瓶會用的那種五色繩,一端是連在塔上的。前天讀貝瑪薩公主傳時,正好讀到她有一顆spiritual turqiose,還在尋思是什麽寶貝,十六世金塔上所鑲的青松石諸寶貝裡,就有一顆是赤松德贊王的命力石!旁邊一顆則是瑪爾巴夫人給密勒日巴去向瑪爾巴求法的那顆青松石~~哇,能親眼見到這些以前讀過的寶貝真的是很啓發道心!

We were a bit late than planned due to my stupidity of forgetting to bring the Sikkim entry permit and hence driving back again after we almost left Gangtok. The good thing is that, because of the delay, the monks were performing the daily Mahakala and Dorje Drolo rituals when we were there.

The highlight was the Golden Stupa containing the 16th Karmapa’s relics. Moreover, the stupa is decorated with many precious objects. So thrilled to see the life force turquoise of King Trisong Deutsen  and the turquoise that Marpa’s wife gave to Milarepa so that he could make some offering in order to receive teachings……to see these things only read on paper before is such a blessing!!

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120930 Gangtok food 005朝拜完後,去十六世大寶法王總管的兒子家喝茶吃餅乾。喝完一家後,又去了十六世大寶法王的姪女家喝茶。她家有六隻奶牛,所以奶茶和奶酪都好吃的不得了~~

Then we visited two families by the monastery.  Had super delicious tea and curd, made from the milk of their family cows 🙂

吃飽飽回家後,雖說是吃不下飯了,但是大姐做的起司餃子太好吃了,本來說吃兩個的,最後大概吃了十個吧,還有一大碗湯!人在異鄉的中秋節,還是飽餐了好幾頓!

Though completely full after the tea, cookies, curd……etc. it is still too hard to say no to the delicious home made paneer momo (dumpling). Initially I just wanted to taste two and probably ended up having ten momos plus a big bowl of paneer veggie soup. Even though being abroad, I was not deprived from the Mid-Autumn Festival feast at all!

***

Actually it has been one feast after another feast everyday since I came to Sikkim. Sample pictures of the amazing family cuisine I have been having in the past few days :-p

其實來了錫金後,沒有一天沒吃好的。朋友家餐餐好料,也許我應該開始寫一本素食食譜~
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Karmapa To Sakya Center During the 2012 Kilaya Puja 普巴金剛法會期間,大寶法王到訪薩迦中心

Yesterday was the 6th day of the annual Vajrakilaya puja at Sakya Center. H.H. Karmapa came to Sakya Center to visit H.H. Sakya Trizin (Previously Karmapa had received the kilaya initiation from Sakya Trizin). He is in Dehra Dun area for a few days and stays in the Sakya Nunnery.

昨天是薩迦年度普巴法會的第六日,大寶法王來薩迦中心拜見薩迦法王(噶瑪巴之前曾經從薩迦法王處接過普巴灌頂)。 大寶法王這幾日在德拉敦附近的一個藏民村傳法,居住在薩迦尼師院裡。

Karmapa arrived after the morning puja completed. H.H. Sakya Trizin had gone upstairs for the lunch break. H.E. Dungse Rinpoches and Gyalyum Chenmo went receiving Karmapa.

大寶法王是在上午法王、法王子和僧眾修完法之後到的,法王已經到樓上休息了。法王子和大佛母出來迎接大寶法王。

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Karmapa first came to the main shrine hall.
大寶法王首先來到大殿。
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making prostrations to the shrine / 跟壇城三頂禮……

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offering khata / 獻哈達……

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some chanting I can’t remember… but I had been eyeing for that welcoming rice for the rest of the day(Gyana Vajra Rinpoche did not come to the puja in the afternoon so that rice had been there on his table for the whole afternoon. And I finally got some by begging the lama cleaning the shrine room after the puja completed in the evening)
記不得唸了什麽,不過從這時起我就看著那碗酥油飯流口水(因為大寶法王有吃一點,一直挨到傍晚法會結束人全走光了,才跟一位師姐去跟整理場地的喇嘛討幾口那個飯--法王子智慧金剛仁波切下午沒有過來修法,所以那碗飯一整個下午都一直放在那個法座上)

Two Dunse Rinpoches offered mandala to Karmapa
兩位法王子跟大寶法王獻曼達:
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H.E. Sakya Dungse Ratna Vajra Rinpoche offering mandala to H.H. Karmapa
薩迦法王子大寶金剛仁波切向噶瑪巴獻曼達

Two younger generation bodhisattvas together…_/\_
有師姐説看到這張相片很感動。兩位年輕一輩的菩薩為了我們而來到這輪迴世間度我們……

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H.E. Sakya Dungse Gyana Vajra Rinpoche offering mandala to H.H. Karmapa
小法王子智慧金剛仁波切向噶瑪巴獻曼達

Karmapa was sitting on Gyana Vajra Rinpoche’s throne during the Kilaya Puja these days. Before he left, he found something interesting at the table and checked on that thing for a short while.
大寶法王坐的是這幾天普巴金剛法會時法王子智慧金剛仁波切坐的法座。他要下法座前,不知發現法王子桌上有什麽有趣的東西,饒有興味地把玩了一下。
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And then Karmapa went up see H.H. Sakya Trizin and they had lunch together. (Sorry, no pictures of them together…) while Gyalyum Chenmo had lunch with Karmapa’s sister.

然後大寶法王上樓拜見薩迦法王,他們一起用餐。(抱歉,福德不夠,沒能看見他們兩人在一起的畫面~)

薩迦法王的佛母嘉嫞千嫫則和噶瑪巴的姊姊一起用餐。
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After lunch, three Sakya Dungse Rinpoches and H.E. Gyalyum Chenmo saw H.H. Karmapa off and then we started the afternoon Kilaya puja again.

飯後,三位薩迦法王子和法王的佛母給大寶法王送行,之後我們就開始下午的普巴法會。
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Sakya Dungse Gyana Vajra Rinpoche and Karmapa
薩迦度母宮法王子智慧金剛仁波切和大寶法王相互頂禮

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Sakya Dungse Abhaya Vajra Rinpoche and Karmapa
薩迦圓滿宮法王子無畏金剛仁波切和大寶法王相互頂禮

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Sakya Gyalyum Chenmo and Karmapa
大佛母嘉嫞千嫫和大寶法王

So happy to see Karmapa here. Last year in Washington he suddenly showed up. This year, again, out of the blue he came to Sakya Center. Much much blessings showered down.

第二次見到大寶法王,真是很開心。去年去華盛頓時,意外發現他在台上一起受法。今年來參加法會,竟然也能見到他。中午吃完飯後去繞行大殿,想到大殿上有兩位“法王”就覺得加持滿溢,開心,開心!!

***

Add a picture of the two H.H., posted by Lama Tsewang Rinzin
這張不是我照的,不過總算是有喇嘛po了一張兩位法王的相片:


Photo by Lama Kunsang Gyaltso

普巴金剛法會/More on the kilaya puja:bellachao.wordpress.com/2012/09/14/vajrakilaya/

2008年萨迦法王授予大宝法王灌顶与教学之图集 HH Sakya Trizin and Gyalwa Karmapa at Dzongsar College

虽然是老照片,不过昨日再次看到还是觉得备受两大法王的加持。转贴来分享。

2008年萨迦法王在印度比尔的宗萨佛学院给予十七世大宝法王灌顶与教学。

Though not new pictures, but still feel very blessed when coming across these again. Pictures of HH Sakya Gongma Rinpoche bestowing empowerment and teachings to Gyalwa Karmapa at Dzongsar College in 2008.

更多相片/ Source and more photos:http://konchok5.multiply.com/photos/album/21/His_Holiness_the_Sakya_Gongma_Rinpoche

  
  


  

  
大宝法王献身口意曼达给萨迦崔津法王
HH the 17th Karmapa presenting offerings to HH Sakya Trizin

  
萨迦法王、大宝法王、祿頂堪千仁波切,以及康萨霞仲仁波切
HH Sakya Trizin, HH Gyalwa Karmapa, HE Luding Khenchen Rinpoche and Kangsar Shabdrung Rinpoche

***

今天是究給企千仁波切圆寂纪念日,再加上这张一直很喜爱的相片…
Today is the parinirvana anniversary of Chogye Trichen Rinpoche so here adds one of my favprite pictures:

究给企千仁波切和大宝法王 / Chogye Trichen Rinpoche and the Karmapa

愿一切众生皆能 得遇明师如此
愿一切众生皆能 对师虔信无疑
愿一切众生皆能 远离四种执着
愿一切众生皆能 速证实相涅槃

May all beings can encounter great masters as such
May all beings can have devotion without any doubt to their gurus
May all beings can part from the four attachments
May all beings can swiftly attain nirvana and ultimate truth

Recalling a Buddha - Documentary on HH 16th Karmapa 十六世大寶法王記錄片

宗薩欽哲仁波切介紹十六世大寶法王的影片片段
(有師兄説仁波切額頭上的皺紋像個“嗡”字~總之,的確是看來像個種子字)

http://youtu.be/qG1JunxbQQg

贡嘎雪山的摩托車之旅 / Motorcycle tour at Kunga Mountain

跟着贡嘎寺堪布去贡嘎寺。贡嘎寺有三个,分别在不同的地方。一个是历代贡嘎活佛修行的老贡嘎寺,一个是供有上一世贡嘎活佛肉身的新贡嘎寺,还有一个是现在正在建造的新新贡嘎寺。
I tagged along Kunga Monastery’s khenpo to visit this famous Kagyu monastery. There are actually three Kunga Monasteries in the area: an old one, a new one housing the body of the previous Kunga Rinpoche, and a new-new one they are building now. Khenpo was going back to check the progress of the construction. 
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(子梅山垭口,后面是贡嘎雪山/Tsemi Pass 4650m with Kunga Range in the back)

从康定过去,一路上的民居都极为富丽堂皇,各家都像是皇宫一般。
From Kangding city to Kunga country, all the Tibetan houses are as grand as palaces.
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路上有个圣泉,堪布带着大家去取泉水喝。
There is a sacred spring in the mid way, Khenpo-la led us to taste the spring water.
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中午在九龙-沙德吃飯时,餐厅前的一辆车子上见到萨迦法王一家人去年在澳洲拍的全家福,倍感亲切。
In front of the lunch place out of no where, there parked a car with a photo of HH Sakya Trizin and the family which they took last year in Sydney 🙂 100909 Kung Ga Monastery 012 100909 Kung Ga Monastery 029

到达贡嘎乡时已经下午三点多了,心里盼着能在仅有的两天时间中去老贡嘎寺,不过堪布的弟子说时间已晚,又在下雨,叫我放弃。心里觉得很可惜,但这是自己的缘分,也没办法。师兄在分配新新寺住宿的房间时,堪布把我叫了过去,问我是不是还想去老贡嘎寺,我马上点头如捣蒜,堪布确定我没有什么高原反应后,叫侍者帮我找了台摩托车,就让我去了。
After lunch, with the typical welcoming folks along the way we proceeded fairly slowly. It was over 3pm when we finally arrived at the new-new Kunga Monastery. The organizing Beijingnese told me it is not possible to go to the old monastery in such late hours as it is 3+ hours away, plus it was raining. Fortunately Khenpo still remembered my tight schedule (i.e. leaving tomorrow!) and summoned me to see him before he started the series of meetings. Once he made sure that I do not have any problem with the altitude, he asked his attendant to find me a motorcycle to proceed!
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(第一台车载的是我的行囊,过度重负让我的司机吃足了苦头 / my loaded luggage brought us a lot of trouble along the muddy way)

我欢天喜地地要出发时,同行的尼師听到我能去老贡嘎寺,马上说她也要去。问题是她有七十三高龄,坐3个多小时的摩托,要是有个闪失,我怎么担待的起?我觉得很不妥,堪布的侍者也很紧张,请示了两次。尼師説她昨晚有請寺内的堪布打卦,说卦象非常好,但是我还是很担心,甚至想过趁着老尼师在找她的水壶时一走了之,但是她说了:“我现在不去,这辈子就没有机会去了”。老人家这样说了,那还能怎么拦呢?

我们搭上两个年轻小伙子的车。他们去新贡嘎寺那边加个油,再回家换个衣服,真正出发时都四点半了。
At first, there was just me and a local guy (later I learned that he is the nephew of Khenpo) responsible to bring me to the old monastery. However, the nun from Dorje Drak also insisted that she should go with me so we became a four-people group. After we found another vehicle, loaded everything, refilled the gas and followed the motorcycle riders to their home so that they can put on warmer clothes, it was half pass four already when we actually departed. 
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(载我的摩托车手家里,他母亲在织氆氇,地上晒着蚕豆)

一开始还好。先是翻过一个4650米的子梅山垭口,下到一个小村子的山沟里,路是土路,但是平坦宽敞,小伙子在颠簸的车上,还能放声高歌,唱歌功力十足,我也练就了在摩托上单手照相的技术。
At first it was very enjoyable. We coursed through the mountains at relative flat and wide paths and reached the Tsemi pass at 4650m. Down in the valley after the pass was Tsemi village, then the challenge came with the muddy steep trail leading to our destination.  
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到了村子后面要再次上山时,就不好玩了。

土路就是条羊肠小径,因为之前下雨,非常湿滑,泥泞多的地方车子会打滑,很危险,一加油后轮就打滑,不加油车子就陷在泥巴里,完全凭骑手的经验和双脚在泥巴中辅助才能顺利前进。有大块石头和树根的地方,车子根本上不去,必须一人骑一人推才能前行。没多久就变成两个车手互相帮忙推车上山,我跟尼師在后面步行跟着。
The nun came with me was 73 years old so I was really worried about her. Thanks to prostration exercise, blessings from her Guru, or a good divination result as she claimed to have the day before for this trip, at least she was able to go on and off the motorbike by herself and walked  when needed. Yet the further we went, the more time we had to climbed the mountain on our feet as the trail was so steep and slippery that the motorcycle can not handle the climbing and  the two guys had to helped each other to push up the bike, which means the nun and myself were pretty much on our own feet.  Not to mention that it was raining and getting dark (while my flashlight was in the bag on the motorbike already out of sight). I can only look at the delicious mushrooms along the way and visualize how tasty they would be only if I had time to collect them and bring them to the monastery…
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(因为下雨,满地是蘑菇,看著眼馋,可惜没时间采,否则上老贡嘎就多一道菜吃)

尼師年纪大自然脚程慢些,不过她还能自己走。最让我担心的是那时已经七点半了,天色非常昏暗,眼睛手术的后遗症让我几乎看不清路,手电筒又在车上的包里,而车子早就不知爬到哪里去了。一边想要追上车子拿手电筒,一边又担心尼師跟不上,走一会儿就得停下来等她,确定她来到视线范围内才敢继续走。最后到达时都晚上八点二十,天色全暗,小雨沥沥,寺門深锁。
It was so dark in the woods that at one point of time the old nun got lost until the two bikers sought her out. After the struggle felt like an hour long, we finally got back onto the motorcycles and proceeded in complete darkness with little visibility – the only thing my impaired vision offered was cliff on one side, narrow muddy and slippery trail and non-stop fog/rain. I was constantly pondering which risk is larger – riding the motorcycle or walking by myself in this kind of situation. I failed to reach any conclusion and we finally arrived at the monastery at half past 8.

喊了一会儿门,才来一个喇嘛开门。开门后,拿出一条二十公分宽的木头架在大门台阶上,让摩托车顺着木头跨越数层阶梯骑进寺庙里,像是特技表演。说是这一带有强盗,虽然强盗还没有上庙里来过。
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说真的,我想强盗也不会上庙里来的。一来是藏人的话,信仰虔诚,打劫庙堂的可能性小;二来是这庙里也没什么好偷的——就一个扎巴看守,(平常还有一个,但是另一个下山去了),没电没自来水没手机信号,更没有什么值钱物品。我们就着昏暗的太阳能电灯(这两天下雨,日光微弱,所以灯光也是要亮不亮的),升起炉火,煮了面吃。这会儿还有个西安人在这里做四加行兼禁語闭关,真是很有决心又有好福报的人,能在这种圣地做前行的修持。
The guys yelled for a while until a monk came out to open the gate for us. There is no electricity, no mobile phone signal, no tap water. We were totally unexpected guests for the only monk looking after this place. Yet he was kind as all Tibetans, he made us tea, hot water (for making instant noodles – our guides were super considerate in bring these noodles when they refilled the gas, otherwise we would end up having only tsampa as supper).

我吃的慢,还没吃完晚饭,喇嘛已经带着摩托司机去帮我们准备房间。不一会儿,黑漆漆的寺院传来一阵哐哐哐、狂敲烂打的声音。原来是房间钥匙找不着,他们只好把锁给打坏——救命啊!来叨扰人家已经挺不好意思了(没有通讯方式,所以对看庙的喇嘛来讲,我们是十足的不速之客);来不到一个小时,又把人家的门给砸了……阿弥陀佛,不知这又折损我多少的福德资粮。
While I was still eating, the monk and the 2 guides went preparing rooms/beds already. The monk was so unprepared that he could not even find the keys to the rooms so these three Tibetans worked very hard to demolished the locks of guestrooms by sheer force…what a day!

第二天起来云雾袅袅,四周转转才看清老寺的全貌。
The next day under sun light I finally got a chance to look at the monastery. There are actually many buildings around for this monk to attend. Except for the main shrine/living area we stayed, there are also a separate Avalokitesvara shrine, a Padmasambhava shrine with prayer wheels, a few stupas, and a few independent houses appearing to be perfect retreat places.
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(老贡嘎寺的主殿,也就是我们住的地方在最右边,旁边有观音殿和新修的蓮師殿)

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(这两间屋子看著就觉得超级适合闭关的)

Yet the real retreat place of the old Kunga Monastery is still half day walking distance away in the ice mountains. 
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(老寺前的山沟中有雪水从冰山上川流而下,左边层层山峦过去再走个半天路才到老贡嘎寺的闭关中心,发愿下次要去住几天)

告别接待我们的喇嘛,他送给我两串自己挖的红景天。我跟他说了自己没有高原反应(反而愈上高山,精神愈好),不过他说这个对通脑子很好,硬要我收下,我就拿来补补脑咯,贡嘎神山的药草呢~
The monk gave me some Rhodiola roots he dug/dried which is the most popular anti-altitude sickness cure for Chinese.
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(虽然山上什么都没有,但是喇嘛还是弄了些花草供佛)

最神奇的是我们要离开时,摩托车手刚把行李装上车,我正要一脚跨上时,竟然飘起雪来!一瞬间觉得难以置信,望了几秒钟,雪愈下愈大,雪花落在手上都看得见。大家都高兴的不得了,觉得极为祥瑞,喇嘛说是今年的初雪。看了一眼手表,早晨九点三十一分。
Right before I hopped on the motorcycle to leave the monastery, it started snowing! The monk said it was the first snow for this year. 9:31 am, what an auspicious and memorable moment for this trip. 

下山时,跟昨日雨夜奔走的情形不可同日而语,轻松愉悦。我蹦蹦跳跳,半个小时就下了山。途中还经过一个“不动佛圣地”。下次我想可以自己爬山上去。
Not for long I decided to quit the effort of getting on and off the motorbike due to the various course conditions. The nun continued to ride on the bike, while I happily ran down the trail, only lagging behind them by a few minutes. There was even a “Akshobhya sacred place” on the way. I think I will walk up and down this part of the trail the next time I come. Hopefully I can spend a few days in the retreat place then.
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顺原路再次翻过子梅山,远眺贡嘎雪山。摩托车手心情也很好,还去爬移动的塔台——真是建的有够煞风景的。
Back on the Tsemi Pass again, the 2 guides were also in good mood. They even went climbing the ugly empty mobile tower. 100909 Kung Ga Monastery 113

在山上,尼師采起煙供的树枝,骑手也下去帮忙。我不知道什么能当香烧,帮不上忙,就到处看花。藏地的高山上从四川到印度北部都一样,漫山遍野都是芬芳的植物。
The nun and my guide collected some plants for making incense while I appreciated the highland flowers.
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下山后,再请骑手带我们去新贡嘎寺朝拜上一世贡嘎活佛的肉身——他是上世紀在漢地傳法的西藏喇嘛的先驅,國民黨諸多高官將領都曾皈依其座下,例如李宗仁、陳立夫等。他的传记中有详细记载他圆寂坐化,法体不坏,在文革期间經由信徒曲折保存下来的经过。
Then the riders brought us to the New Kunga Monastery where we paid respect to the flesh body of the previous incarnation of Kunga Rinpoche who was pivotal in introducing Tibetan Buddhism to Chinese in the last century. As innumerable realized beings in Buddhism history and in other religions, his body naturally remains after he passing away and was successfully hid by several witty local Tibetans during the cultural revolution.
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新贡嘎寺后面有一处泉水,据称是由第二世贡嘎活佛开出的泉眼。
As in many other monasteries, there is also a spring/well discovered by the first founder of the monastery believed to be a result of magical power.
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新贡嘎寺旁边有座萨迦寺,两家互相挨着,看守新贡嘎寺的喇嘛带着我们从山上走过去。萨迦寺的看家喇嘛在修法,所以这位贡嘎寺的喇嘛带我们转了这个寺庙,看来两家是很好的邻居。
A Sakya monastery is right next door to the New Kunga Monastery and the Kagyu monk was very kind bringing us over and even showing us around since the only monk in that monastery was in the middle of doing a prayer.
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师兄很仁慈的帮我们弄了台车返回康定,结束我的两日游。开车的司机很好,虽然他送我们过去后,当晚又得赶回贡嘎,但还是不疾不徐地让我沿路照相:山沟里独特的多角型碉楼,还有藏民们在高原山上排出的各式咒语。
So I successfully finished my Kunga Monastery visit within two days and returned to Kangding. The fortress towers in this area is also quite unique.
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经过折多山时,山上白雪纷飞,和昨天的晴朗天气完全不同。山神留了我一会儿,第二天清早还在飘雪,因为能见度低,飞机迟了数个小时才能从成都飞过来,我们在康定机场耗了四个小时。
It was snowing in Zheduo Mountain nearby Kangding. Kangding Airport was heavily affected. The low visibility caused my flight to delay for 4 hours.
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特别感谢堪布,在白忙之中还记得我时间有限的事情。让我在心里准备放弃时,有缘顺利朝拜老贡嘎寺。

***

我们的行为,要做到小乘的行为。
我们的思想,要符合大乘的思想。
我们的见地,要达到金刚乘的见地。

小乘的行为是,少欲知足、谨慎取舍。
大乘的思想是,毫不利己、普度众生。
金刚乘的见地是,悲智双运、轮涅不二。

——太桥旦增堪布

传记:贡嘎活佛、隆莲法师…

 最近不知怎么,连看了几个传记:
 
(一)贡嘎活佛                      王德生 著,云南民族出版社
这个应该是成都的TY推荐的。不信佛的人可以当近代神话故事来看,民国初年的一位西藏喇嘛,做过十六世大宝法王的经师,到汉地传法的先驱,被众多国民党高官奉持,简言之就是神人一位。他在德格八蚌寺学习、康定金钢寺待过一阵子,走过川藏线的应该会感觉还挺亲切的。信佛的读读就更有意思了,就几十年前的大成就者,道不是那么遥不可及。依照佛教高僧惯例,贡师往生那一段和遗体所发生的事情,也是很有意思的。
 
还有比较好玩的是提到了当年八蚌寺对闭关学生的考试,闭完3年关后要过三道题才算成功:1/ 在农历正月冰天雪地中,赤足、赤裸上身、只围一短僧裙,由人用竹竿牵着在雪地里绕八邦寺一周(那个雄踞山头的寺庙可是大得很哪,可以看看我在康区的照片,估计让人牵着也就不能狂奔取暖了),要不感冒不发抖才算合格; 2/ 测验入定时能够完全断绝呼吸–鼻孔上还贴鸡毛一根以确实验证,可惜没有说多久;3/ 由大喇嘛们轮流陪考生盘膝聊天,考生可以自行决定吃不吃提供的茶、食,要合格呢,就得三天三夜不下座而且不大小便!
 
书里有一张16th Karmapa 和贡师在1954年在北京照的相片,那时十六世应该是三十岁左右吧,竟然和现在17th Karmapa 无比的像!
 
唯一有点不太适应的是作者老是要谈些民族团结的东西,跟书的其他部分搭不太起来。
 
 
(二)隆莲法师                        裘山山,上海辞书出版社
应该也是TY荐的。作者给她封了个“当代第一比丘尼“的称号,Tenzin Palmo说女的成就者很多,就是以前男尊女卑,所以没有人给女修行人立传。这个是我看到的第一本吧。
 
是一位天才型的人物。生于清末,没进一天学堂念书,古文驾驭能力是匪夷所思,自学了从小学到大学的数学,英文藏文都有能翻译的水平,写一手苏体好字、画兰花一绝,参加四川省的高等文官检定考、公务人员培训班公开考选,还都能考个榜首(出家前)– 那个考题我有的看都看不懂,汗颜哪。
 
看看以前的国家考题:
– 招世之士兴朝中民之士荣官说?
– 清之亡,不亡于太平天国,而亡于预备立宪,其故安在?
– 试述工业革命发源于英国之原因?
第一题选自庄子,大意是:真正优秀人才想的是振兴国家,而中等人才却只想当官掌权(这句话可是历久不衰啊~~用在公司里也很贴切)。这位游小姐可有见解了:“国家分崩离析之际,人民处水深火热之中,有志君子将出而存危理乱,其述安在?曰:在公,唯公生明,唯明生治…“
 
她17岁读完孙子后就能写长诗:
" 深秋已萧瑟,园菊尚华滋。晨兴展书卷,乃观孙子辞。
周纲昔陵夷,四海翻废糜。力政苦众庶,穷兵残烝黎。
但知行己志,斯道救斯民。更无人我界,屑屑较疏亲。
慎战非攻意,反复何殷勤。落落孙子怀,墨氏如其诚。
世人用其法,几辈得其神?吴亡数千载,兵祸代纷纷。…"
 
再看看她柔一点的词(挑首短的),皖溪沙-残梅:
消瘦冰肌已不支,何堪细雨早春时。香魂一缕细于丝。
怕听高楼吹玉笛,愁逢驿使折残枝。江南遥望泪痕滋。
 
也就是她20岁前后的作品吧。好像有句话是看小孩小时候就知道长大如何。最近才知道McKinsey的 JW在21岁就拿到PhD,Jessica很感慨地说,我们20岁时在做什么呢?正是跷课跷得一塌糊涂的时候吧。结论是20岁已经是工作狂的人,一辈子大概都会是;20岁就懒散的人,以后只会愈来愈懒。20岁前有才气的,换个方向、就是出家也是有才的尼;20岁前没才的,年纪大后就更生不出什么才气了。假如下辈子能记得这辈子学的东西的话,也要累积很久才能有才…
 
(三)这位老人家我现在也不太清楚是谁?最近在读颇瓦法,网上搜搜相关资料,看到这个故事觉得挺有趣的,也是民初的事:
 
“…其時,金山有一位悟道高僧,眾皆尊為活佛。惜余年幼無知,不知叩請上下,只見眾人團團圍住他爭相問話。乃使勁擠進人群,跪拜僧前,僧亦不問短長,拿起大雄寶殿內的敲木魚的大槌敲余頭曰:「好好用功學習,後褔無窮!」一眾驚愕,余亦赧顏而退。" 
元音老人略傳
http://book.bfnn.org/books/0587.htm
 
 
看到这段觉得特好笑,要是现在敢有和尚拿个木鱼槌打小孩的头,
         可以想见一旁父母肯定跳出来理论,少不得还找个律师去提起告诉~~