錫金蓮師洞 Guru Rinpoche Caves in Sikkim

打算要寫這篇已經兩年多了,懶散至今。

This writing had been a victim of my procrastination during the past 2 years. The disease hasn’t been cured completely so let me post some pictures and do a preliminary write-up for the time being.

札西頂: 一切的中心 / Tashiding – The Center of All

121008 NorthCave 08(LR)01

仁增果登說,整個錫金是聖地,札西頂又是這神聖壇城的中心點,四個蓮師洞則分別位在札西頂的東南西北四個方位。

According to Rigdzin Godem, Sikkim is a holy place and Tashiding is the center of this sacred mandala while the four Guru Rinpoche caves are situated in the four cardinal directions.

121006 TashiDing 11(LR)01 121006 TashiDing 03(LR)01
121011 Tashiding 001(LR)01121006 TashiDing 12(LR)01

二世欽哲是在這裡荼毗的,有舍利金塔在此,還有一座見即解脫佛塔等等諸多殊勝的佛塔,因此要去蓮師洞和從蓮師洞回來時,都會上札西頂來朝拜。

Since Tashiding is such a holy place, plus all those sacred stupas, it is a must to come paying respect and offering prayers whenever on our way to and from the caves.

121006 TashiDing 69(LR)01121011 Tashiding 16(LR)01-2
121011 Tashiding 14(LR)01121006 TashiDing 68(LR)01

在這裡做煙供和供養功課是最快樂的時候,很容易就在這裡待上一整天。
Making offerings and prayers here was such a happy thing to do. I can easily spend a whole day here.

121011 Tashiding 15(LR)01121006 TashiDing 02(LR)01 121006 TashiDing 80(LR)01

札西頂有十億個空行城市,很多岩石上有空行足印、通往秘境之門等等的聖跡,要請人說明才看得出來。有一位幾十年前從康區玉樹來的人在這裡刻瑪尼和佛像,若是會講藏文,老人家還蠻樂意介紹的。

Tashiding is said to be the place with 1 billion cities of dakinis. There are a lot of sacred imprints on rocks, such as foot prints of dakinis or the door to the hidden lands.

121006 TashiDing 05(LR)01121006 TashiDing 76(LR)01
121006 TashiDing 01(LR)01121011 Tashiding 11(LR)01121006 TashiDing 52(LR)01

南蓮師洞 Southern Cave: Lho Khandro Sang Phuk

洛·康卓·桑埔,這個是最多人來的,從車子可以開到的公路邊走下來只要十多分鐘。

This is the cave with easiest access and hence most people only come to this one. It only requires a 10 minutes walk down to the valley from where you can park the cars.

121010 South Cave 021(LR)01121010 South Cave 016(LR)01
121010 South Cave 013(LR)01121110 Cave 003(LR)01

洞在地下,要鑽過很狹窄的通道才能進入最內的蓮師修行洞室。

The cave is slightly underground but not very deep. You just need to crawl through a very narrow passage to enter the inner chamber. The last passage is said to be the image of a particular deity. I won’t name which one so that you can look at the rock and use your own imagination.

這個通道據說是某本尊的形象,哪尊我就不說了,大家自行觀修吧。

121010 South Cave 006(LR)01121010 South Cave 002(LR)01

洞穴所在的河邊有溫泉,大石旁就有幾個泉眼,從河底的細沙內冒出,可以泡腳。到季節時,還可去旁邊搭起的竹棚內泡湯~~

There is hot spring from the river. You can sit by that big rock and soak your feet. In high season, the cottage will be open to allow a bath I think. Somehow  I never came here in that high season.

121010 South Cave 017(LR)01121010 South Cave 019(LR)01

 

東洞 Eastern Cave: Shar Chog Bey Phuk

121005 South Sikkim East  Cave 006(LR)01121005 South Sikkim East  Cave 020(LR)01

這個東邊的蓮師洞稱作“霞丘北埔”,現在也有公路通了。從公路走下來也是十多分鐘,路很好走。

There is motor road to this Eastern Cave now so the access is very convenient as well. From the road, it is also a 10-20 minutes walk down.

121005 South Sikkim East  Cave 005(LR)01121005 South Sikkim East  Cave 021(LR)01
121005 South Sikkim East  Cave 008(LR)01 121005 South Sikkim East  Cave 018(LR)01
121005 South Sikkim East  Cave 015(LR)01121005 South Sikkim East  Cave 012(LR)01121005 South Sikkim East  Cave 011(LR)01

也是要鑽進地裡。但這個洞穴往下可以走到很深的地方,是那種可以不知在裡面走多少公里的洞。下面的路比較危險,不像南洞只是在洞裡爬爬就進去了。要走下去的話,一定要帶手電筒。

This cave is however very deep underground, the kind of place where it seems you can walk miles down there and get lost. A flashlight is a must if you decide to go down.

121005 South Sikkim East  Cave 014(LR)01121005 South Sikkim East  Cave 013(LR)01

這隻小狗從離開公路的居民家裡一路帶著我們走來;等我們從洞裡爬出時,它還乖乖坐在門口等我們。連我這麼怕狗的人都覺得它很可愛。

This cute dog had been leading us along the road to the cave and was faithfully sitting in front of the gate when we climbed out.

 

北洞 Northern Cave: Byang Lhari Rinchen Nying Phuk

Tashiding(LR)01北洞和西洞都沒有公路可到達,都需要坐車到附近的村莊,再徒步走上去。這個北洞,尤為辛苦。

去了之後,過半年才發現,這是拉尊·南卡·吉美取出伏藏《持明命修》(《山淨煙供》即是其中的一部分)的地方,於是很感激某人在西洞和北洞二選一時,選了這個北洞去。雖然辛苦,但是個吉祥緣起。

Northern Cave and Western Cave are not accessible by car and requires a one day trekking from the nearest village. The journey to this Northern Cave is especially harsh. But several months after I went, I realized it is where Lhatsun Namkha Jigme revealed the terma Rigdzin Sokdrup, “The Practice of the Life of the Vidyadharas”, from which the “Riwo Sangcho" comes from, hence I have been very grateful to the friend who picked this cave over the Western Cave for me.

第一天:札西頂 –拉章 / Day 1: Tashiding to Labdang

首先,從札西頂有吉普公車到一個叫拉章的小村子。那個山路很差,所以一定要吉普車才開的過去。

上圖是我們兩人的行李,背包是必須的,行李箱沒可能背上山,所以要換成軟包。札西頂的這個路口有去各地方的吉普公車,我們就這樣行李一放,進了路邊地下室的小餐館吃飯。我是很不放心行李就這樣扔在路邊,不過真的也沒被人拿走。札西頂真是個民風純樸的好地方!

So in order to go to Northern Cave, we took the public transportation from Tashiding to Labdang. The road was bad so even if you hire your own car, you will need to hire a jeep and someone who really knows the road.

When we went to have lunch before the jeep departed, we actually left our  2 backpacks and 2 duffel bags on the street unattended (just like what the picture above shows). I was a bit worried, but when we finished lunch, coming out of the restaurant, these bags were still there intact. That’s another reason why I love Sikkim. It’s just not like other parts of India where you need to watch out all the time.

吉普車上另一個乘客是拉章的人,他答應當我們的嚮導,所以我們到拉章之後,就在他家落腳了。

There was another passenger on the jeep. He is from Labdang and agreed to be our guide for the trip. So the jeep dropped us directly somewhere near his place, then we walked for 10 minutes into the mountain to his house.

121005 South Sikkim East  Cave 021(LR)01121006 Labdang 01(LR)01

這個尼泊爾裔嚮導的家簡直是個世外桃源。吉普把我們放下在路邊的人家,然後我們爬上崎嶇陡峭的山路,進山到了這個有五六戶人家的地方。他們全都是一家人,完全與世隔絕,各戶人家中間圍著菜園,養雞、養羊,完全自給自足。

其中有一戶人家裡剛好請了一位喇嘛在修法,我們尋著聲音晃進去,他們也不以為忤,給我們茶,讓我們坐在火邊享受這靜謐中的誦經聲。

The guide is Nepalese descend and his place is like a small shangrila to me. There are a few cottages together. Next door is his grandfather’s and others are his cousins’.  They grows a lot of things in the compound and have chickens, goats around.

We wandered into one of his cousin’s place as we heard the chanting of a lama doing a one-man puja there. They are all very nice people. They gave us tea and let us just sit there by the fire and enjoy the moment.

121006 Labdang 07(LR)01121006 Labdang 15(LR)01121006 Labdang 13(LR)01121006 Labdang Village 002(LR)01

右邊那個小房子是雞舍。天快暗時,他們就趕雞回去,雞自己會走上那根木條爬回家。雞回家後,人就把那木條移開,大概是要預防有什麼動物晚上會來襲擊雞兒吧。

Before it gets dark, the rooster and hens would walk over a wooden stripe  to get back to their elevated shelter. First time seeing chickens can be trained to do something.

121006 Labdang Village 001(LR)01121006 Labdang Village 004(LR)01

尼泊爾人的房子好乾淨,木地板是一塵不染的。嚮導把家裡最好的房間騰給我們睡,只有一張單人床,所以一個人要打地鋪。我看他們一家人都睡地板上,所以也許那張床說不定其實是沙發。好吃的晚飯也完全是尼泊爾菜。

The guide let us stayed in the best room in his place. The Nepalese wooden cottage is very clean, and warm at night. The family cuisine was also good.

第二天:拉章-山上 (9 公里) / Day 2: Labdang into the Mountains (9 Km)

121007 To Cave 04(LR)01北洞就在那山裡面的某一處,遠方的山頭還有雪。

2012年的雨季結束的晚,當地人還沒有清理去蓮師洞的路。錫金雖然海拔高,但溫暖潮濕,森林完全是雨林的模樣。雨季時,所有植物一長,就沒路了。我們是當年第一批出現來朝山的,那個嚮導小男生人也真好,竟然願意帶我們入山,我完全沒有想到他和他帶來幫忙的姪兒會有多辛苦。

Northern Cave is further inside the mountain from where I stayed.  Somewhere in the opposite range in the picture.

The 2012 rainy season lasted longer than usual. The local community  has not cleared the road to the cave yet. We were the first group trying to go that year. I was very surprised that our guide was willing to bring us in after I saw how much work he and his nephew had to do. They literally had to cut a road out of the jungle for us.

121007 Village to the Lodge 001(LR)01兩千多米的海拔,我們要走九公里的山路,翻過兩個山坳才能到蓮師洞。按一般人的腳程,單程要走五到七個小時,當天是無法來回的,所以晚上要在當地人為朝聖者所搭建的一個小屋裡過夜。

The altitude was 2000+m. 9 km to the cave, for the locals, it is a 4-5 hours walk, for city dwellers, probably 5-7 hours, so there is no way to do a day trip. You have to spend a night at a shelter house the community built near the cave.

一開始幾百米的路還有左圖的小徑,沒過多久就是茂密的雨林。嚮導兩人,一個人背著我們的一個大包和他自己的小背包,一個人背著自己的小背包拿著鐮刀從雨林中硬是砍出了一條路。

This kind of trail only happened in the very beginning. Once we got to the other side of the mountain, there was no trail at all. The guide just took turn to cut a one-man wide passage out of the thick rainforest.

有些地方,植物長得太茂密,還砍不出他們通常走的路,於是又折回,另闢他徑。他們的體力真的讓人咂舌,高海拔負重爬山已經很費力了,砍樹更是體力活。

121007 Village to the Lodge 005(LR)01121007 Village to the Lodge 020(LR)01121007 Village to the Lodge 012(LR)01

有些地方,則是路完全塌了,只能爬過鬆動的落石。這種時候,我都會很感謝在法國楓丹白露森林裡教我攀岩的英國同學。有些地方是必須沿著陡峭的山壁走,原本當地人會搭建一個右上圖的那種圍欄扶手,但因為今年還沒清路,很多這類棧道都塌了,只能念著阿彌陀佛想辦法貼著山壁爬過去。

In some places, we had to climb though land slides. Those are the times I’d thank Robert for teaching me rock climbing basics in Fontainebleau.

For the parts where the safety fence that locals built were completely out of shape, you can only chant mani and pray those grasses on the cliffs can provide you some support .

121007 Village to the Lodge 006(LR)01121007 Village to the Lodge 002(LR)01

But the view is good. At least in the beginning when you still have energy to appreciate and explore.

121007 Village to the Lodge 013(LR)01
錫金的蘭花很有名。Probably orchids.

121007 Village to the Lodge 015(LR)01121009 Cave back to Labdang 001(LR)01

看了蘑菇就覺得肚子餓。Cute mushrooms.

開始還有點閑情逸緻拍照,過了一半就只想著要努力在天黑前到達目的地。

特別是走了1/3路程,停下來休息時,才發現除了那割人腳的荊棘蔓草、黏了我一身的種子,還有無數多的血蛭在襲擊我們。

血蛭很小,就指甲月牙那個大小,它們會在快要有人經過時站在樹葉上,人一經過就跳上來,然後順著你的褲子爬到鞋子或褲管裡,有些還直接從頭上樹葉空降到身上。

不知道的時候沒什麽感覺,等我把血跡斑斑的褲管捲起,在別人幫忙下把那十幾隻抓掉,再啓程之後,只要有一隻進來都會覺得很癢,很想把它從自己身上攆走。但是走走停停也不是辦法,過一會兒就只能放棄,完全一個修心的過程。

121007 Village to the Lodge 024(LR)01 121007 Village to the Lodge 023(LR)01  121007 Village to the Lodge 022(LR)01

The real challenge was leeches. I didn’t realize there was such a thing until after 1/3 of the trail, I saw those blood coming out of one guide’s leg after he took out some leeches, even at that time I still thought it was due to those nasty sharp vines. Then those guys finally enlightened me by pointing at my own bloody pants. After I rolled up the pants, I saw leeches on my leg for the first time in my life – not one or two, but more than a dozen.

They were tiny. Most are not even 1 cm long. Yet they are vicious. Like motion detectors, they would know before you  come and stand up on the leaves, twisting and waiting for you. Once you pass by, they jump over to you, then they follow your pants or shoes to seek the soft skins to satiate their blood thirst.

快要進入目的地山坳時,那個山頭可能海拔比較高,突然血蛭就失去蹤影,在身上的也好像死掉了,雖然還咬在身上。

121009 Cave 9(LR)01

看到這個已經從拉章走了快9公里的牌子時,真是歡天喜地。其實離要過夜的屋子還有幾百米,蓮師洞還要1公里。

Fortunately when we got closer to the destination, probably due to the high altitude or something, the leeches all suddenly disappeared. Even those biting into you became inactive.

The shelter house is still several hundred meters from this sign and the Cave is probably 1 km away.

121007 Village to the Lodge 027(LR)01121007 Village to the Lodge 028(LR)01

最棒的是要涉水過這個小溪,順便洗腳、清除血蛭。雖然水溫低到腳一浸,就凍成紫色,但還是快樂無比。特別是這時帶的水已經喝完,拿空瓶裝溪水飲用,那個香甜甘冽,加持降臨,真是難以忘懷。

這時對血蛭已經有初步瞭解,它們喜歡咬皮膚薄、大血管靠近體表的部位,所以群聚之處就是腳踝那一圈和腳趾附近。據說若是等它們吸飽血自己會掉落,而且它們的唾液會有助止血。死在我腳上的洗掉後,血還是從它們咬出的那兩個小牙齒孔泊泊流出。

This stream before reaching the house was like heaven. We ran out of water so refilled ourselves with this cool and sweet nectar. Also, took the leisure to stop and wash off the dead leeches on my feet. Though it was freezing and my feet turned purple, but it feels great.

因為天已經開始暗了,大家也累了,所以我們決定今晚先住下休息,明天早上去朝洞後再下山。

我大概累斃了,小屋的照片一張也沒有。

基本上就是一個有屋頂墻壁能遮風避雨的地方,沒電沒水沒信號,不過屋外有接山泉的地方。嚮導在外面生了個火,煮了他們背上來的YY泡麵(我愛YY!)。吃完後,因為沒電,也沒事可做,於是就6點18分我們已經全部躺下睡覺了。那應該是我這輩子最早上床的一天。

當地人實在很好,開路、搭橋、建屋子之餘,屋裡還備了一些泡棉墊,可以拿來墊在睡袋下面。睡袋一定要帶暖的,我帶的小螞蟻睡袋說是0度ok,完全不夠暖,冷得睡不著,到半夜厚顔討了別人的一半睡袋來蓋。嚮導則是背了一床毯子一裹了事。

The house is just a roof with walls for people to tug in for the night. No power but there is running spring water outside.

Since it was getting dark, so we decided to stay put and wait until the next morning for the cave.

Our guides made a fire and cooked some instant noodles they brought up as dinner. Then we all tugged in at 6pm. You do need a warm sleeping bag. My light one, said to be good for 10 C, was definitely not warm enough.  The guides simply wrapped themselves in a blanket so I should’ve asked them to bring a blanket for me instead.

121007 To Cave 05(LR)01

第三天:北洞-拉章 (11 公里) / Day 3: Up to the Northern Cave – Back to Labdang (11 Km)

隔天,繼續努力。

今天上洞、下洞各1公里路,再9公里路回拉章,共要走11公里,雖說是下山,但其實還是很多上山的部分。

So today, 1 km to and from the Cave, plus the 9km to get back to Labdang, a total 11 km to go.
121009 Cave 3(LR)01121008 NorthCave 05(LR)01
121009 Cave 4(LR)01121008 NorthCave 06(LR)01

雖然一路都覺得是在很特別的氛圍裡,但到了洞裡就更特別了。特別到連我這麽鈍的人,都覺得空氣中漂浮著異常奇特的光彩和力量。

Although it feels walking in a special zone throughout the journey, the feeling got even stronger when getting closer to the cave.

121009 Cave 15(LR)01121009 Cave 21(LR)01121009 Cave 13(LR)01

洞是半開放的岩穴,嚮導幫我們掛上風馬旗。

It’s a half open cave. Our guides helped us put up some prayer flags.

121008 NorthCave 02(LR)01-2

看到前人不畏艱辛而背來的佛像、油燈,實在佩服不已。

I was amazed by all those statues and big butter lamps brought here by previous visitors.

121008 NorthCave 03(LR)01

做煙供、供養,還在洞裡把一天的功課都做完了。

Sang offering and various prayers. It feels like something flowing in the air, like an unheard song, invisible, vibrating, making your mind clear and joyful.

總覺得洞的深處隱約傳來空行歌唱的聲音。

121009 Cave 24(LR)01121009 Cave 14(LR)01

Though we started early, we spent a lot of time at the cave and it was almost 10 when we got back to pick up our luggage and had some breakfast. Next time I will spend more than a night there.

磨蹭到九點多才回到昨晚落腳的地方,吃了早餐,拿上行李回拉章。

依依不捨,下次要多待兩晚。

121009 Cave 12(LR)01121007 Village to the Lodge 021(LR)01

回去的路上,連小背包都讓嚮導幫忙背回去。即使如此,還是到晚上七點多,天都全黑了才回到拉章。我的腳程就是來回都要9個小時 [汗]

嚮導今天不用開路,走得飛快,估計三個小時就回家了。

很感人的是,大概下午四點我又餓又累,還加上可能失血過多而頭暈時,竟然其中一個嚮導又上山來,帶著水、熱熱的烤餅給我們吃。

Though I passed my little backpack to the guide, it still took me 9 hours to get back to Labdang. For them, since they don’t need to cut trees and make roads anymore, it probably took them only 3-4 hours to get back.

And they are super sweet. When I was tired and hungry on the road, one of them came back to us at around 4 pm to bring us some hot tea and warm roti!

因為他們先走了,天黑後很難認路,又沒有手電筒,友人拿著那天曉得能撐多久的手機當電筒,還好他算是很有方向感的人,於是帶我走出了大山。
121007 Village to the Lodge 003(LR)01121009 Cave back to Labdang 004(LR)01

第四天:拉章-札西頂 / Day 4: Labdang to Tashiding

121009 Labdang 9(LR)01

實在很愛我在拉章住的這個地方。
Love this place I stayed in Labdang.

121008 NorthCave 07(LR)01-2121009 Cave back to Labdang 005(LR)01

昨晚回來在嚮導家門口清血蛭所遺留的血跡,今天還清晰可見。

身上有32個咬痕,腳上估計一兩百個是跑不掉的。

最慘的是,別人都是血蛭拿掉後,20分鐘血就止了。我是一整個晚上都在試著止血。試了各式方法,到了半夜還有三處止不了。

On the previous night I took out those leeches in front of the guide’s house, my blood on the ground was still visible this morning. In total, I had 32 bites on my torso and 100-200 bites on my legs/feet. A great cleansing with all the blood I offered to this pilgrimage!

121009 Labdang 15(LR)01 這是拉章村的公車站。旁邊有個社區辦公室,一定要去那邊交錢支持他們的開路和維護聖地的工作,每人只收20盧比,5毛美金都不到。

嚮導也很好,雖然我們沒有事先講好價錢,但帶我們上山,加上兩晚在他家的住宿吃喝,也只收了我們兩人四千盧比(80美金)。不太好意思,於是多給了一千盧比的小費。

This is the jeep stop in Labdang. The community has an office nearby. They only charge 20 Rupee per person for their hard work on making roads and maintaining the shelter. Please do support them.

For my guide, even though we did not talk about price upfront, this morning he charged a very reasonable 4000 Rupees for the two of us, including brining us up there, home stay, meals and everything. So  I offered  a tip for their hard work. Make sure you can find this guide if possible. Too bad I forgot his name already 😦

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回札西頂的路上,佛光普照。

Beautiful lights on the way  back  to Tashiding.

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札西頂!Tashiding!!

Tso Pema 蓮師聖湖:措貝瑪

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有人帶著去的好處就是自己完全不用花腦筋,又可以很悠閑地一天就朝拜完主要的聖地。

This was a one day trip to this holy lake associated with Padmasambhava. Thanks to a friend so that I got to effortlessly cover all the major sites in a rather leisure way.

蓮師洞 Guru Rinpoche Cave

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先去山上的蓮師洞,附近有個頗有靈氣的小湖。

一下車就有人在販售風馬旗。一條龍服務,買完旗子後,旁邊就有個喇嘛可以幫旗子念經什麽的,然後有印度人可以幫你到蓮師洞旁爬上去掛旗子。

Debora recommended me to stay somewhere around here if I come for more than a day. Indeed a very serene place. It would be wonderful to do a retreat here.

There is a small lake nearby (not Tso Pema), also looked quite “holy”.

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蓮師洞,顧名思義就是蓮師修行過的洞。這裡有兩隻很有靈性的狗,我們還不知道怎麽走的時候,小白狗就走在我們前面帶路,帶我們往下走到岩洞裡。

等我們在蓮師像前面修法時,它也陪在旁邊,很親密地依著人。

There are two hospitable and kind dogs. While I was still hesitating which way to go, a white dog came as if he was guiding me to go down into the main cave.

While we were doing our practices inside, it also lovingly accompanied us there for almost the whole session until more people came inside.

120814 Tso Pema 011旁邊還有一個小洞,是曼達拉娃佛母和蓮師一起修的地方?記不太得了。

Linked to the main cave is another smaller cave.  Too bad that I can’t remember the history behind.

Then out of the cave, we did a Kora around the cave. The two dogs came to lead us again!

To the other side of the hill, there is another cave where it housed a footprint of Guru Rinpoche.

 

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然後繞著蓮師洞轉山,可以走到後面一個有蓮師腳印的岩洞。兩隻小狗又很盡責的在我們前面引路。

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There are many retreat huts/caves around.  We saw some monk/nun carrying barley flours up to the mountain, probably back to their retreat place.

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一路上有很多依著岩洞建立的閉關小屋。在山上隱修的僧尼很辛苦地自己扛著青稞粉上山。

朋友眼尖,看到這隻大概才剛出生的小老鼠。只有一個指節的拇指大小,還渾身濕漉漉的,給它吃麵包碎片都還不會吃。

A baby mouse, only the size of half of my thumb. So young that it did not seem to know how to eat solid food yet.

措貝瑪 Tso Pema
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120814 Tso Pema 032120814 Tso Pema 038120814 Tso Pema 039就是原本曼達拉娃公主的父王要燒死蓮花生大士的那個湖,不過反而因為蓮師在此顯現種種神跡而收服了這個小王國信仰佛法。

湖邊有個可以餵魚的地方。魚兒很多很多,看著它們不斷張口索取食物,覺得很悲哀。。。不幸投生作魚的話,即使是投生在這種每天都吃得很飽又不擔心有人會把它們宰來吃的地方,但是出於業力,每天想的還是只有吃,也不太可能持個咒什麽的。這樣想想,就覺得要好好珍惜自己的人身。不然每天吃飯、睡覺,跟畜生也沒什麽差別。

The lake where Padmasambhava performed miracles and tamed the king/people of Princess Mandarava’s kingdom.

There are so many fishes in the lake. Seeing them seeking endlessly for food is such a sadening thing.  They are among the most fortunate fishes in the world – plenty of food available in a safe environment. Yet they can not do something meaningful such as helping each other or doing some practice. All they know is looking for more food…  very rarely can I think of the downfalls of taking  rebirth in the animal realm and this is one of the few rare moments.

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朋友可以拿這湖水來洗臉。我分別心重,做不到。

很湊巧的是在湖邊碰到了在Spiti一起接法的師兄。就是她跟我們説到吉布巴的聖地,我們之前才去朝聖的。離開Spiti後就一直沒有聯絡(因為她沒有手機),沒想到在這裡撞見,還是她在措貝瑪的最後一天,過來餵鴨子的幾分鐘內給我看見了。這也算是有緣千里來相會。

Quite amazingly ran into Semzang here. She told us about the Driburi pilgrimage back in Spiti and we did not see each other for all these days (she does not have a mobile). Just during this short time by the lake to feed the fishes, she happened to come to feed the ducks on her last day in Tso Pema. Speaking of karmic connections, this must be one of them.

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湖邊有大蓮師像,還有好幾個廟。也有很大的錫克廟,因為他們認為蓮師是他們的一位聖人。

There are a giant Guru Rinpoche statue and many monasteries by the lake, including a big Sikh temple (Sikhs also consider Padmasambhava to be a saint of theirs).

自生度母像 Self-arising Tara Image

翁珠仁波切的廟旁邊有一個自生度母像,就在一株菩提樹旁。

This is by a bodhi tree near Ontrul Rinpoche’s monastery.

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曼達拉娃洞 Mandarava Cave

曼達拉娃修行的岩洞。這裡的尼師會講很多很多的故事,岩壁上有手印、寶冠印……她説這是曼達拉娃和蓮師初見的地方,慕斯唐的Lo-gekar則是第一次蓮師、曼達拉娃、耶喜措嘉會面的地方。聽到Lo Gekar就很高興,聽到耶喜措嘉去過慕斯唐就更高興了。話說回來,作為第一位伏藏師取藏的地方,耶喜措嘉曾經去過那裡,也就一點也不奇怪了。
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120814 Tso Pema 049這幾個指印很清楚,像是有人把岩石當麵團捏了一把的樣子。

If you can speak Tibetan, the nun looking after this place can tell you all sort of things, from the history of the cave to the various prints on the rock – hand prints, imprints of ritual crowns…

This hand print is the most visible one. You can place your hand over it, as if you could take a grip of the rock as a dough.

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前一晚沒睡,去的路上在暈車,回比爾的路上也在暈車。一路暈睡的回程途中,一時坐起,恰好看見了這個讓人感覺充滿加持的景觀。

I was car sick all the way to Tso Pema, and again car sick all the way back to Bir.  This amazing scene showed up during the few seconds I happened to sit up on the way back. A beautiful end to a day full of blessings.

Sikkim Pilgrimage 2011 錫金朝聖

Since most people needed to catch their flights, we only did a two-day trip out of Gangtok after the teachings. Hope I will get a chance to stay longer next time.
因為有半數人要趕飛機,所以只有兩日遊。下次要自己待久一點。

Temi Tea Garden 茶園
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After leaving Gangtok, we had breakfast and tea at Temi, the only tea garden in Sikkim and considered one of the best in India and in the world.
離開甘托克的第一站是在這裡吃早餐,當然,還有喝茶。這是錫金唯一產茶的地方,也是號稱印度、甚至全世界最好的紅茶產地之一。

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I asked lama to buy me this snack after seeing an Indian chewing it in a tiny grocery shop. I suspected the Indian took something similar to betelnut wrapped in a leave, but the lama got me something sweet.  Ani-la forbid me eating it out of concern for my health so I only sample- tasted some of the ingredients. Like the rose flavor jelly sweets 🙂

看到印度人在雜貨店買這個吃,用樹葉包某些東西捲成一個小包吃,很像我們的檳榔。請喇嘛幫我買了一個。喇嘛說有兩種,他幫我買的這個是甜的,但是尼師不準我吃,怕我拉肚子。葉子沒吃,還是偷嘗了一點裡面的東西,有玫瑰味的紅色軟糖、椰肉乾、甘草粉…香香的,很好吃。

 

Giant Guru Rinpoche Statue at Namchi 36公尺高的巨大蓮師像
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Ravanla Monastery and Buddha Park / 惹旺拉寺與佛陀公園
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大寶金剛仁波切今天恰好在Ravanla學校給學生做文殊口傳和一些其他行程,安排我們中午一起在Ravanla寺吃中飯。寺廟主人是相片中最左邊的那位祖古,真是不好意思,把他名字給忘了,只記得他來自有名的大成就者家族,是尼雅Nyak氏的後人。
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大寶金剛仁波切到的很晚,所以我們饑腸轆轆等了很久。這裡的香蕉超級好吃,跟平常那種催熟早摘的完全不同,不甜卻帶著類似芭蕉的香氣。

Ravanla is building a Buddha Park 小鎮正在建設一個佛陀公園,以後可供人遊憩。
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Tashiding 扎西頂
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It is said that the whole Sikkim is a holy place and Tashiding is the most sacred place among Sikkim. Jamyang Khyentse Chokyi Lodro was cremated at Tashiding and the golden one is his stupa. Even thinking of soon to see this stupa made my way up so joyful.

整個錫金都是聖地,而扎西頂又是全錫金最神聖的地方。二世欽哲確吉羅卓仁波切就是在扎西頂火化,金色這尊是他的舍利塔。想到馬上能夠朝拜這個佛塔,剛剛爬階梯上到廟裡來時,一路歡快雀躍不已。

There is also one ‘Thong-Wa-rang-Dol’, ‘Liberation by mere seeing’ stupa here.
這裡還有一個“見即解脫塔”,不過忘了是哪一座,記得是白色金頂的。
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This old man, Garpa, came from my beloved Kyegu since his twenties and spent the past fifty years carving mani stones in this holy place. His works include various mantras and Buddha images. He kindly showed us around to see various sacred sites/imprints of Guru Rinpoche and dakinis. He is over seventy years old now but can still walk really fast.

這位年過七十的老人家來自我摯愛的玉樹,二十多歲來此,五十年在這聖地雕刻瑪尼石。為我們介紹各個特別地方,蓮師腳印、空行母聚集處等種種聖跡。他仙風道骨,健步如飛,還一直説他也是薩迦的。
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Guru Rinpoche Long Life Cave at Tashiding 蓮師長壽岩穴
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It was completely dark and rainy when we walked down the hill toward this cave. I was nagging silently that if not for waiting for Ratna Vajra Rinpoche for lunch, we could have arrived while there were still sunlight (some other people were nagging out loud…). When it was my turn to squeeze inside the cave (the passage is so narrow that only one person is allowed to try each time), I heard my jean ripped while passing through the sharp edge of rocks. The ripping was right on my butt that if I can tear off the bottom parts, they would become perfect hot pants for the beach. Now I was really happy that it was so dark that nobody can see this small disaster.

走山路下來這洞時,天已全黑,還下小雨。我只有一個小不拉幾的手指粗的手電筒,什麽都看不清。一邊走心裡一邊碎碎念,誰排去吃中飯的,不等仁波切就不會搞到那麼晚才摸黑走山路。待輪到我鑽進洞時(洞口很小,一次只能一人入),才剛抬腿就聽見牛仔褲啪唧一聲裂了——裂在屁股上,把褲管扯掉就是超短的熱褲。當時馬上感謝諸佛菩薩保佑,還好天黑沒人看得見。

事後聽說還真有人滑倒在泥濘山徑上,不過據她說摔下時,覺得有護法幫忙抬了一下,人完全沒事,而且有一邊屁股竟然沒有著地。神奇吧。

 

Pemayangtse Monastery 貝瑪楊澤寺
This is one of the oldest monasteries in Sikkim. 錫金最老的寺院。
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A Holy Lake 聖湖  — Khecheopalri Lake?
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Yuksam
This was the first capital of Sikkim, where the first Chogyal of the Kingdom of Sikkim was consecrated in the 1641 AD by three learned lamas.
錫金第一個首都。史載錫金第一個國王就是在此處由三位大成就喇嘛授灌登基的。有三法座的石臺,腳印和神木。
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One Sikkim School 路過的錫金小學
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Another Holy Lake 又一神湖
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Guru Rinpoche Cave 蓮師洞
There are four Padmasambhava caves in Sikkim. This one, Khado Sangphug, is the only one accessible by car. Secret Cave of Dakinis, simply love the name! There is also hot spring right outside by the river.
錫金四個蓮師洞只有這個是車子可通,走一下就能到,叫做“康卓桑埔”,空行密穴,聽名字就覺得很讚。洞前河邊有溫泉。
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Gangtok 甘托克

View of Gangtok city from cable car
纜車看錫金首府甘托克
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Sikkim Legislative Assembly where H.H. Sakya Trizin gave a public teaching on “Basic Understanding of Buddhism” in October
錫金立法會,有一天法王在這裡給大眾公開開示,講“佛教基礎”
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Tsuklakhang Royal Chapel and Monastery, where Jamyang Khyentse Chokyi Lodro and Khandro Tsering Chodron used to live
錫金王室家廟,以前二世欽哲確吉羅卓和佛母康卓慈玲秋諄就住在這兒
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Namgyal Institute of Tibetology housing a rich depository of Tibetan literature, rare manuscripts, paintings, thangkas, statues and religious objects and other works of art and history
南嘉藏學研究中心,博物館可以看到很多文物
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Chorten Monastery where Dodrupchen Rinpoche resides with many many cats
多智欽仁波切駐錫的秋登寺,裡面貓特多,受到上至仁波切、下至眾喇嘛的寵愛
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This cat is not from Chorten Gonpa but belongs to a friend. It treats me like a member of the family, or more precisely, a cushion of the house.
這隻貓是朋友家的,完全把我當成自家的座墊。
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Also learned how to make Tibetan barley wine, chiang 🙂
還見到朋友母親在屋頂釀酒,主要是供養多智欽仁波切寺廟做修法甘露用
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Sikkim definitely offers the best Tibetan food, especially their family cuisine, simply delicious! The famous fireball chilies look deceivingly cute and I did not dare to try until reaching Manduwala.
錫金藏族菜是我吃過最好吃的,有筍,有蘑菇腐乳泡菜…特別是家常菜,想來還是流口水。著名的火球小辣椒則一直沒膽嘗試,反而是到了Manduwala才大膽吃了。
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藏曆年初四去度母宮和敏珠林 The 4th Day of the New Year Was A Busy Day

110303 Sakya Center Vajrakilaya Puja 098今天薩迦法王開始例行的上午10-12點接見大眾。我前往拜年兼辭行。

人很多,等著見法王的人們排隊排到院子裡一長串。所以我先上去見寶金剛仁波切,回到樓下會客室時已經快十二點了,還是川流不息,不過不用排長隊了。

Today is the first day when HH Sakya Trizin resumed his daily audience after the losar break. I went to get some blessings for the new year. Many people shared the same idea so there were a long queue extending to the courtyard.

法王心情很好,笑呵呵的。前後都有人,所以只很簡短的拜年和請示一個問題。不管我用英文說什麼,法王都笑瞇瞇地用“中文”回答。擲骰子時,還拿到我面前擲,給我看結果——我要是看得懂就不用問他了呀~哈哈,一直都是聽他用英文教學,沒想到還有機會聽他溜幾句中文。

Though it was towards the very end of his 10-12am audience time when I got to see him, HH was tirelessly in very good mood, smiling all the time, and talked to me almost all in Chinese! It was such a cheerful moment: I said a few words in English and he responded a few words in Chinese 🙂 I did not even know that he can speak some Chinese.

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然後是去火車站買火車票。連續幾天印度鐵路公司的網站都在當機,所以只能親自去排隊。雖說是外國人可以排在第一個限購當日票的窗口,還是排了兩個小時。火氣直線上升,因為覺得對陪我去的喇嘛很不好意思。

Then I had to go to the train station to purchase train ticket to Delhi. The Indian Raillway website has been down for several days. The queue was so long that it took me more than two hours and I felt so sorry to the monks who brought me there.

***

喇嘛原本只是要帶我去看敏珠林大佛塔的,沒想到我先是在度母宮磨蹭了一陣子,然後又卡在火車站。等我們到Clement Town時已經快三點,喇嘛們都餓壞了。
When we finally got to Clement Town, it was 3pm already. We had a late lunch, then took a quick look of the monasteries in this rather big Tibetan settlement.

敏珠林的大白塔果然名不虛傳,真的是很大。四周環境優美,像個公園。藏民都在慶祝新年,於是草坪上坐著的不是來野餐的印度家庭,就是一對對的印度情侶。110308 Clement Town 013

估計來這裏的情侶很多,而且行為可能不太符合寺廟規矩。所以到處都有牌子寫著“請勿公開示愛”。 還有一個有趣的牌子是“此處禁食花生”。

The great stupa here is indeed quite impressive. Mindrolling is very spacious and well managed. You really feel it is a “center”for study something great and the scale of everything here is indeed great, from the stupa to the outdoor buddha statue.

這裏的園丁不錯,花很多,春意盎然。
Clement Town must have very good gardeners so that every monastery here are decorated with numerous flowers all over the places.
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艷陽高照,還是有喇嘛頂著烈日在大佛像前做功課。
Under the blazing sun, there is a monk carrying out his practice in front of the huge Buddha statue.
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最高興的是看到了一樹幾十隻的綠色橘喙長尾鸚鵡。上一次看到同樣的鳥兒是在菩提迦耶大覺寺佛塔的上層,一邊大禮拜,一邊看它們在佛塔上遊戲。這吉祥緣起讓我在火車站的火氣完全平息,回到快樂的好心情。
The day trip was ended with a tree of 30+ beautiful green long-tailed orange-beak parrots. I saw the same birds staying at the top section of Mahabodhi stupa at Bodhgaya. Seeing the same birds again in such a great quantity and short distance made me very happy again.  
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菩提迦耶(4)靈鷲山和那爛陀大學 / Vulture’s Peak and Nalanda

在菩提迦耶的最後一天,我們包車去看了靈鷲山和那爛陀大學,以及附近的一些景點。
On the last day in Gaya, we went visiting Vulture’s Peak, Nalanda University and some other sights.

靈鷲山 / Vulture’s Peak (Rajgir)

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靈鷲山是佛陀二轉法輪開示大乘教法之處,身為大乘佛教徒是一定要來的。
This is where Shakyamuni disclosed the Mahayana teachings so it is a must-see for Mahayana Buddhists.

我們上山時運氣好的不得了,竟然空無一人。所以就恭恭敬敬的禮拜,然後一起念心經。一到這裏,心情就激動不已。想當年,佛陀在此說法,天人菩薩共俱,何等勝景。
We were super lucky that there was no one when we climbed up. So we did proper prostrations and recited Heart Sutra together, and then made individual wishes. It is yet another very special place you can feel it directly while being there.
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拜完下山途中有兩個巖洞,一個好像是佛陀某大弟子長年禪修之處,大概是目犍連吧,洞裏香客雲集。另一個洞是玄奘説佛陀曾在這裏晾衣之處。
There are two caves on the way up the peak. One is said to be where one of buddha’s chief disciples did long meditation, the other one is said to be where buddha stayed and dried his robe. The first cave was packed when we came down.
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再走一走,路上出現一隻猴精。它是端坐在路旁唷,膝蓋像人一樣呈90度彎曲,腳掌置於地上。都說猴子會搶人東西的,我們很戒懼。蔣揚喇嘛竟然招手示意它過來,頓時我們三個非常沒有義氣的逃之夭夭,嘴裡還驚慌失措地喊著“不要、不要…”。說它是猴精呢,還真是精怪,好整以暇地等著喇嘛從袋子裡拿出一根油條給它,接過後,咬兩口,還回頭看看這些大驚小怪的人。自從泰姬瑪哈陵的導遊説印度的猿猴可以雙手撕裂一條牛後,我就很怕這類動物~
We met a monkey (?) on the way down. The way he sat was just like a human being. I was quite anxious and worried that it may attack us for food or something else.  When Jamyang Karma Lama waved it over, the other three of us ran away immediately…the monkey was actually of very good manner. He waited patiently for Lama to open his bag, find a donut and hand the donut to it. Anyway, not my fav animal in the world.
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從山下爬上靈鷲山說法台要十五分鐘左右,都是階梯,走不動的也有轎子可以坐。山下的小吃店是我們剛到時喝茶吃早點的地方,東西很好吃。
You can hire people carry you up to the peak though the walk is only ~15 minutes. The eatery by the parking lot is quite good. We had tea and samosa there.
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還可以坐30盧比的纜車到旁邊的山頭俯看靈鷲山。吃早餐時隔壁坐著三個拿槍的軍人,上山時又見到他們,這次是抱著槍坐纜車下來。

上去後,只見靈鷲山就在一片茂林谷地中如巨龍般突起。又讓我遙想當年人天菩薩共聚聽法之景,生在當年就好了!
30 Rupee cable car ride can bring you to another peak with a magnificent view overlooking the Vulture Peak. It just reminds me of the typical scene described in Sutra, where gods, arhats and boddhisattvas gathered together to receive Buddha’s teachings. You can really feel the scene when being here.
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那爛陀大學 / Nalanda University

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那爛陀大學當年的重要性就不用說了,是世界文明重鎮,曾有上萬人在此學習。雖然被回教徒一把火燒了,所剩無幾,但是那個規模之大,還是讓人驚歎不已。單是學院部份就有十三座,走到腳都痠了,還有廟堂建築。我想古代印度很多王國可能都沒有那爛陀大。
The first impression was that it is huge. After walking for a while, you feel even stronger about its immense scale. There are 13 monastic schools, plus some more temples. Some old Indian kingdoms may be dwarf in front of Nalanda.

那爛陀是舍利子(就是《心經》中跟觀音菩薩請法的那一位,因為他提問,我們才有《心經》)出生和證道之處,這座塔是舍利子塔。
This is the stupa of Shariputra who was born and attained enlightenment in this area. Without him, we would not have “Heart Sutra”, so prostration to Shariputra!
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大小佛塔基本上都被毀了,僅能遙想當年盛景。這裏是龍樹、寂護、毗如巴、玄奘求學之地!
Most stupas are ruined but you can imagine the glorious days when Nagarjuna, Shantarakshita, and Dharmapala (Virupa) studied and acted as abbots here.
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Avalokiteśvara holding a lotus flower.Nālandā, Bihar, India, 9th century CE.遺跡對面有個不大的博物館,裏面收藏挖掘出的一些佛像,值得一看。有超級秀美的觀世音菩薩像、卡薩巴尼觀音像,還有小小尊的財寶天王,第一次看到非藏傳的財神造像,不過跟藏傳唐卡裡的一模一樣。
The museum across the road is worth visiting. It is not big by any sense, but houses very nice Avalokiteshvara and Kasarpani Avalokiteshvara statues. The small wealth deity statue is also nice. It is my first time seeing Jambhala out of Tibetan arts, yet they are identical. 

其它 / Other

玄奘紀念館 / Xuan Zang Memorial Hall

一片中式風格,有介紹玄奘生平事跡的壁雕。他12歲出家,42歲即完成在那爛陀的求學,並且名震外道,45歲回到中國後開始翻譯佛經至64歲圓寂。偉人就是如此小時了了,一刻不閑,事業浩大。
Xuan Zang came to Nalanda via Afghanistan. He studied so well that he won debating against numerous heresy challengers. Then at the age of 42 he returned to China, bringing back a large amount of sutras and starting translation for an untiring 20 years. Thus he became one of the most important sutra translators  into Chinese. This place depicted his life stories.  
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王舍城竹林精舍 / Bamboo Groove (Veluvana)

曾是佛陀最喜愛的休憩處,現在成了一個大公園。這是釋迦牟尼往年洗澡沐浴之處。
Once one of buddha’s favorite place, but now only a park. This pond is supposed to be where Buddha took showers.
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溫泉 / Hot Spring

在靈鷲山到那爛陀寺之間有個印度教的溫泉。裏面的小孩洗澡超認真,像是要搓下一層皮來一樣。還有印度教的斂財教士,拿著水讓你洗洗手,念些皈依文,就要收你100盧比,那種就不用理。比哈爾省是印度最窮的省份,看街上的大眾交通工具主要還是騾車就知道。
Somewhere between Vulture Peak and Nalanda. An interesting stop by. Just ignore those self-claimed Hindu priests who want to offer you water for washing hands. They are out for money. Bihar is one of the poorest state in India. The still use mule chariot as main transportation tool here.
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菩提迦耶(3)充滿加持的充實日子 / A Typical Day in Bodhgaya With Shower of Blessings

早上五點鐘會出門去大覺寺(因為住的地方五點才開門,不然四點就會去了),到了就開始做大禮拜,做到七點回中華寺吃早餐。
5am to Mahabodhi Temple because the Chinese monastery I stay only opens gate at 5am. Then I would start my favorite session of prostrations as it is still dark and cool.
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吃完早餐,七點多回來繼續拜,拜到比較熱了,九點左右,就去繞塔,然後在菩提樹下坐坐。
At 7am I would return the monastery for a quick breakfast, then come back for the 2nd session of prostration until it gets too warm and sunny. The rest of the morning is always spent in circumambulation and sitting by THE bodhi tree.
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人少的時候,還可以在佛像前靜坐。雖然我看到的香客是絡繹不絕,但是據說其實算是人很少的時候。聽說人多的時候是根本不許人坐在裏面,有時人還會多到根本進不來。所以我能在裏面每天坐上半個小時到一個小時,算是很幸運。
Everyday  I would also sit in front of the Buddha statue for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Though I see a constant flow of visitors, it was said that actually I come in a less busy period. Otherwise usually it is not allowed to sit inside the temple.
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外面還有釋迦牟尼佛的腳印,是阿育王做的。因為當年沒有佛像可拜,所以他們就刻了佛的腳印作為佛的象徵來禮敬。斯里蘭卡人非常虔敬,跟印度人一樣很戲劇化,他們會用手觸摸這些聖物(佛像、象徵佛陀走過的石雕蓮花……),然後碰觸自己的心房,一再而再地重覆,如舞蹈一般。看的時候會感覺他們的虔敬心自心中宣泄而出,力量大到只能用此方式表達。不像我雖然會做些磕頭類的動作,其實心裡的虔敬心是一丁點,反而是用身體動作來引發些微的虔敬心。坐在菩提樹旁,看著他們禮佛,對我是充滿喜悅的開示。
I also love watching those Sri Lanka pilgrims doing circumambulation. They would reach out hands to touch sacred objects and then touch their own hearts, over and over, as if the devotion swells from their bodies so much that it is the only way to ease the unbearable devotion. Versus myself, I can only do some mechanic gestures to hopefully invoke a tiny drop of devotion. It was really joyful to watch their dance-like movement.
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大殿前方左側有三個小殿。分別有度母、中殿是不看也罷的外道之物(主殿內地上有一圈遺跡原本也是外道之物,後來被一個佛教徒給偷偷炸了),另一殿內有頂嚴金剛薩埵的佛像。大殿右側則有據聞非常靈驗的度母,因此供養她的花鬘也總是豐盛不斷。
In front of the temple there are 3 small chambers on the left. One with Tara, one with Hinduism linga, and one with buddhas and a Vajrasattva. There is a Tara on the right side of the main temple, which is said to be very powerful hence always adorned with a lot of flower garlands.
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中午十一點多回去洗個澡,十二點在中華寺吃中飯(他們包三餐是加150盧比,一位廣東居士煮的素食,很不錯,是這一帶唯一可吃中國菜的地方,不過不對外開放)。
Then I would go back taking a shower, having lunch at 12pm.

吃完飯後,下午可以去逛逛。菩提迦耶和藍毗尼一樣,有各派寺院,建築風情各不相同,像是佛寺大觀園。我主要都在大覺寺,逛得不多,下圖分別是(1)小巧幽靜的薩迦寺,住宿一天100盧比,很乾淨,但是廁所在外面;(2)立體壇城的精緻不丹寺,住宿分新舊樓,沒記錯的話是300盧比和500盧比;(3)日本人建的石製大佛像;(4)日本寺;(5)另一個日本寺;(5)某寺門上的月亮,這兔子又讓我想到頂果欽哲仁波切。
After lunch, there are plenty of temples around for visit. It is similar to Lumbini where you see architecture of various traditions. I spend most of the time in Mahabodhi so did not visit many other temples, except for: (1) Sakya Monastery – small but quiet, clean rooms for 100 Rupee a day with shared toilet/shower; (2) Bhutan Monastery – exquisite mandala, offering rooms for 300 or 500 Rupees a day; (3)64 ft tall Buddha Statue; (4) Japanese Temple; (5) Another Japanese Temple (which I did not even walk inside); (6) Moon image on the door of a temple. The rabbit reminds me of Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche.
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比較遠的寺廟可以乘三輪車過去,從中華寺到薩迦寺那一帶是15盧比。路上也有婦女在賣菱角。
Rickshaws can be hired to go around. From Chinese Temple to Sakya Monastery  costs 15 Rupee.
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薩迦寺的策嘎多傑堪布是薩迦佛學院第一批的九名學生之一,他的學識淵博,連印度教也很懂。跟我們說了無比多大覺寺內內該看的還有周邊的聖地。八大尸陀林就有三個在附近呢,可惜我們受限於時間就只去了這個狂笑屍林,就在大覺寺入口旁的小路裡,現在遍佈是印度教的linga崇拜物,還不到屍陀林的地方有個石刻的時輪金剛壇城。另外兩個是寒林墳場和 Threatening 墳場。
Tsega Dorje Khenpo told us there are 3 cemeteries around here: Cool Groove, Threatening and Ha Ha Laughing. Due to the time constraint, we only went to Ha Ha Laughing which is close to the Mahabodhi entrance. The cemetery is now covered by Hindu linga though. On the way to the cemetery, there is a stone-carved Kalachakra mandala worth of seeing.
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這裏的牛被塗成五彩繽紛的,非常可愛。選舉過後,路上還出現了駱駝,只見它猛嚼路旁菩提樹的葉子。
The cows here are painted colorfully. One day there was even a camel outside the temple, munching leaves of nearby bodhi trees.
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下午三、四點會再回去做大禮拜,做到傍晚吃完飯,飯後再回大覺寺來轉轉。
At 3-4pm I would do another session of prostration until dusk time, go back for dinner at 6pm and then come back to Mahabodhi for a walk until 8pm.

大覺寺裡連落花都很美。蔣揚噶瑪喇嘛有一天還集了一捧放在他做大禮拜的板子上,也是賞心悅目的供養。
Even the fallen flowers are serene and pretty in Mahabodhi. One day Jamyang Karma Lama gathered a handful placing on his prostration board as cute offerings.  
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晚餐通常是在中華寺吃。除了有一天噶瑪喇嘛帶我們去吃地道的西藏菜。在格魯寺後面有一排小餐館,很有日本小酒館的情調,屋頂像是帳篷一般,裏面只有不到十張桌子,最有名的是饃饃(就是餃子),我的素麵也很好吃。吃的時候環顧一看,整間都是喇嘛,只有我一個在家人~
One day Jamyang Karma Lama brought us to a tiny Tibetan restaurant which reminds me of izakayas in Japan. Momo is their specialty. Judging from the packed crowds there, it must be pretty good. The vegie noodles I had was also delicious. Another interesting thing about this place is that it was full of Tibetan monks except for me being the only lay person there.
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晚上回中華寺和蚊子奮戰。從蚊香、蚊帳、防蚊液都用上了,每兩天增加一種方式,但還是夜夜被咬的滿頭包,所以每天都兩、三點就起床。除了麥肯錫的日子以外,這輩子大概沒有睡得如此少過。
The night is spent in practicing patience with mosquitoes. I started by using coils. After two days of suffering, a nun gave me a net, but still the mosquitoes would come inside the net as it was not big enough. Then on the last two days we found mosquito repellent cream in a shop, yet it only lasts for 2-3 hours per application. So every night I would get 10+ bites and eventually got out of bed at 2-3am! Except for the McKinsey days, I have never slept so little in my life 😉

還好只要想到馬上又可以去大覺寺就很快樂~~就像太陽每天都會升起,菩提迦耶的日子每天都很充實,加持如雨降!
Fortunately as long as I think of being able to return to Mahabodhi Temple in a few hours, I would feel very happy. As the sun always rises, the days in Bodhgaya is always meaningful, fruitful and joyful. The blessings indeed come down like a shower.
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菩提迦耶(2)大禮拜和供養 / Prostrations and Offerings in Bodhgaya

大清早從四點多開始就有眾多朝聖者前往大覺寺禮佛禪坐。一團團著白色衣飾印度面孔的是斯里蘭卡人,每天各個時刻都同時有數團在。不知道那個國家有多少人口,感覺一大部分都在這裡。

還有穿裙子的在家人,大部份是緬甸寮國一帶的。著白色現代服飾的則可能是越南人、泰國人或日本人。

Every morning, people start coming into the Mahabodhi Temple at 4am while it is still dark. Amazing numbers of people from Sri Lanka and many from Thailand, Mianmar, Vietnam, or even Taiwan. They are so devoted that many of the groups would carry some big offering items together, and some would even hold a lotus while walking towards the temple. 

來者都極盡虔誠清淨之意,或手持蓮花依次進到園區,或共持大型供養物前來。
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上圖這個西洋僧人非常莊嚴,每天都是五點前就到,在同一位置靜坐,直到九點、十點太陽較大才離去。修行有沒有當然不能從外表判斷,但是有的人就是威儀具足,令人見到即心生歡喜。
This is a pretty impressive Western Shravaka monk. He always sits in the same spot everyday from 4am till approaching noon time, without moving at all. Though you can never judge a practitioner by appearance, this one is so impressive that you feel joyful by simply looking at him. 

大禮拜 / Prostration

有很多藏傳佛教徒都是專程來做大禮拜的。畢竟,還有哪裡比佛陀成道之地更適合做皈依禮敬呢?

僧人們一來都是好幾個月,會找個有陰影的角落擺上木板(可以自己買,也可以跟寺廟租,一個月500盧比),晚上離開時會在木板外面罩上塑料布以防夜露濕寒並保持潔淨。

有幾個來自哦寺的喇嘛在右圖那一區。雖然原本不認識,但是他們都很照顧我,所以我也自然落腳在他們那裏。

Many Tibetan Buddhists come for doing prostration. There are a few monks from Ngor Monastery. Though I did not know them prior to the trip, they were very kind to let me use an idle board and even lent me their mattress when I needed.
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喇嘛讓我使用一塊板子,就在最右邊的小樹旁,是他們這幾天剛好不在的同修的。從木板上的記號看來,是薩迦寺的札西喇嘛的,感恩!

My spot is towards the right end by the small tree in the right photo. I became so gracious after only 20 minutes of prostration. The lamas were really kind to let me do prostration there. Without the tree shade, I probably would not last for more than 30 minutes.

喇嘛們真的人很好,不只讓我用木板,還幫我調整木板下面墊的石塊,確定平穩牢靠(我完全沒想到這層,墊子一擺就傻傻的要拜了),發現我少買個墊子,還把自己的墊子拿來給我用。其實他們本來叫我不用買墊子的,因為只有幾天,他們借我就好,不過我想能帶回哦寺去用也很好,就買了一套——蔣揚噶瑪喇嘛講價超厲害,長墊加兩個手墊才70盧比,要是我自己去的話,估計兩倍價錢才買得到。

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早上五點多時還有人會供養早餐,有甜甜圈、大餅、素包子和奶茶。這些施主也不打擾你,你做你的功課,他們就把食物放在板上。沒想到不是出家人的我也有份。平常在廟裡吃十方供養的食物都會有點害怕,擔心自己福德不夠,承受不起(讀究給企千仁波切的“遠離四種執著”裏面就有再三告誡出家眾都須警惕十方供養不是隨便就吃得起的),但是在這裡只覺得溫暖,是大家庭一樣的感覺。
This is my board. Every morning there will be some people offering breakfast to the practitioners. They would just leave these vegetarian food quietly without disturbing us. You really feel being taken care of here as a part of the Buddha’s family.

每一拜抬頭就是大覺寺的主殿,真是太幸福了。
101109 Bodhgaya 025Sometimes I will bring some flowers and incense nearby, just to create an enjoyable environment for prostration/visualization. It was such a luxury to be able to see the Mahabodhi Temple and the bodhi tree in each prostration.

菩提迦耶的加持力大。平常一次最多做100個,這裏可以一口氣做上250個大禮拜。三天做下來2100個(其實人家喇嘛一天就這個數了~),至低至低有個減肥的功效。第二天的時候,打個噴嚏都會腹部痠痛。
The blessings in Bodhgaya is very obvious. I could usually do only 100 prostrations each time with much of the time resting on the ground, here, easily 200+. So I successfully completed my aspiration of doing 2100 prostrations for the 3 days here, not to mention that I only did it in the early morning and late afternoon when the sun was not too strong.

菩提迦耶的加持力還大到能立即滿願。這幾個月想請《山淨煙供》的口傳都沒有機緣,做大禮拜才一上午,中午吃飯喇嘛就閑聊到敦珠丹增伊喜多傑仁波切在我的正左邊做大禮拜。雖然我不認識他,這次見到他本人之前連相片都沒看過,不過覺得這是佛祖送來給我接口傳的機會,畢竟現在通用的《山淨煙供》儀軌是上一世敦珠仁波切整理加撰出來的,所以敦珠揚希肯定有傳承。只不過,對於是否要打擾人家靜修,猶豫了一天,最後還是抵不過自己對法的貪執,最終在他休息時冒昧上前去求法~他的英文很好,人也很好,隔天就幫我唸了法本。
Also, right after the first morning of doing prostration, someone in lunch time told me that Dudjom Tenzin Yeshe Dorje Rinpoche was only less than 30 meters away from where I was. Though I did not know him or even ever see his pictures before, I do feel that Buddha must have sent him to fulfill my wish to get oral transmission of Riwo Sangcho. Though a bit hesitated to disturb him,  I eventually made the request during his break and got my transmission.

結論就是做大禮拜的功德很大,回報很快。
In summary, the blessings from doing prostration in Bodhgaya is just amazingly obvious and swift to come!

供養 / Offering

釋迦牟尼像前是供養物不斷。有鮮花、水果,中午還有一整盤盛在大缽內或各式小器皿內的精美飯肴,都是信徒們陸續不斷拿來的。所有供品都是用心擺設,極盡恭敬之能事,讓人非常隨喜。

So offerings of flowers, food have naturally been flowing constantly towards the main statue. The 195 lama also taught me something new, which is to offer robe to the Buddha statue. As we did not bring a robe, the office provides 3-piece robe for offering at a mere 500 Rupee. He even got one piece back after the offering, supposed to be a real blessed object. 

還有佛衣。有信徒自己備好三法衣帶來供佛,黃色、金色、絳紅色都有,甚至有精美到在披肩上鏽有大蓮花的,非常發心。只要交給殿內執事的僧人,他們就會幫佛像披上。沒有帶的話,也可以像195喇嘛一樣,去辦公室請,才500盧比,供完後他還拿了一件回來,應該很有加持力。
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供養不只是在殿內,殿外也有。不只是貴重的供養(像是美國的塔唐祖古供養了一整排刻滿般若經的金色看板在外側繞塔處),只要誠心,一杯水也是供養。

像是下圖這一小杯水。猛一看還以為是誰拿咳嗽藥水瓶的瓶蓋放在這裏,仔細一看,就是乾乾淨淨的一個小杯,裏面盛滿水,讓人非常隨喜這人的發心。確實如同祖師大德們說的,勿以善小而不為,那是自己懶散的藉口。
People make offerings everywhere, not only inside the temple, but also outside as well. It can be as small as this mini cup of water. Yet you can feel the sincere devotion and pure intent of whoever brought that small cup, filled it with water, and offered it here.
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或者像我做大禮拜後面的一位喇嘛,他每天都會在圓形的佛塔座上放滿一圈小杯供水和花。這個組合還蠻熱門的,大家各自排列出一些美觀的圖案,真的,重要的是心意。
Or like the lama behind me doing prostration, he would lay out a circle of small cups of water with a flower in each cup everyday. This is a popular combination. People would lay out the offerings in various shapes.
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這個老先生也是讓我很欽佩的。第一次注意到他是因為他竟然在正午12點熱到不行時在大太陽底下供水,後來發現他每天都在同一地點供水。他自備了數不清的銅碗,先把供杯洗乾淨,再擦乾淨,然後慢慢供水、排列,全部排滿後,下午再來收掉。日復一日……
This old man was someone I admired a lot. The first time I saw him was at noon time. Under the unbearable heat, he was washing the copper cups, drying them one by one carefully, then offering the water diligently. Later during the day, he would clean out all the cups. Then I saw he did the same offering everyday…

什麽都沒帶來,又想供點什麽的話,大覺寺門口有一堆賣花、賣香…等的攤子。總之是只要有心,不愁沒得供。
For people not bringing anything for offering, there are many people selling flowers, incense etc. outside the temple.  
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這團泰國人更是發心宏偉。他們帶來了一卷又一卷的布料,花了兩天時間親手把大覺寺用布料包裝的金碧輝煌。還有人造荷花,放在每一尊佛像的佛龕前(圖片是我很喜歡的一尊文殊菩薩像。這些佛像都是近代加上的,原來阿育王建塔的時代還是聲聞乘依循佛制不許有偶像崇拜的時期,偶像包括釋迦牟尼自己的像)。泰國人還空運來不知多少鮮花,兩天後,所有主要通道都布滿了鮮花和人造梅花樹。原來是為了大覺寺管委會每年舉辦一次的供僧袍活動(已經九屆了,南傳傳統上夏安居期間在家人會縫製僧袍,夏安居結束後就會供僧袍,也算是一種慶祝),今年是由泰國贊助,這些泰國人是提前過來布置會場的。 
Nov. 10 would be the Annual Robe Offering Ceremony, organized by the Mahabodhi Temple Management Committee. This year it was sponsored by Thai Buddhists, therefore a group of Thai people started decorating the site on the 2nd day while we were there. They brought a huge amount of textile, flowers and worked very hard for several days to make the site even more majestic.
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修法 / Practice

幾乎所有人來都會做的是修法。南傳佛教的就在比丘帶領下齊聲念誦巴利文佛經;常常聽到葛印卡老師在禪坐快要結束時念的那一段,感覺很親切。大乘的就用各自語言念大乘佛經或祈願文。藏傳佛教比較多是獨自修行,自己找個角落念經或是做大禮拜,甚至獻曼達。這是四大聖地最適合修行的地方。
This is for sure the best place for doing practice among the 4 holy sites. Numerous pilgrimage groups come everyday doing prayers and group meditation. You can hear groups of Shravaka practitioners chanting sutra in Pali and Mahayana practitioners chanting sutras in their own languages, mostly around the bodhi tree, while the Tibetan and other individual practitioners doing their own practice in every corner of the site.  
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草地上這幾個法國人是同住中華寺的,他們有很大一團來做“佛七”(就是念七日阿彌陀佛),我們來的那天大部分人都回去了,剩下他們幾個。這群法國人都會用中文念佛經,很有趣,他們的八、九歲小孩則成了我們的朋友——因為只有他們有耐心聽我們的破爛法文,哈哈。

101109 Bodhgaya 014晚上開到九點,所以即使天黑了還是有人絡繹不絕的在禮佛、繞塔、做功課。每次離開時都覺得很不捨。人一輩子有幾分鐘是能待在這所有佛陀證道之處呢?!
The site is open till 9pm. Despite it is dark after 6pm, still many people stay in the temple in the evening. It is such a wonderful place where you feel naturally calm and joyful. You rejoice in seeing people making offerings; you rejoice in listening to people chanting sutra and prayers; you rejoice  in watching people doing countless prostrations; you rejoice simply at the fact that you can be in Mahabodhi in that very moment.

Arriving Bodhgaya / 菩提伽耶 (1) 抵達

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The train stopped at early morning at a nice spot opposite a village.
火車大清早停在一個靜謐小村的對岸。

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Family waiting for train early in the morning in a station before Bodhgaya. In order not to miss our stop, we started waiting at 8am. The scheduled arrival time was 9:13 , but we didn’t make it until almost 11am.
快要到達菩提伽耶的前一站,清早就很多人在等車。為了怕錯過下車,我們從8點就開始對車窗外乾瞪眼,說是9:13分到,其實晚了一個小時不只。

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First thing in Bodhgaya is to find a place to stay for the next few days. We chose the Chinese Temple because it is close to the main site Mahabodhi Temple and I was told that their guest room facing Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche’s stupa. My room’s view is so nice that I can even see the Mahabodhi Temple in distance.
到了菩提伽耶首先是找住處,卸行李。我們看了幾個地方,最後決定住中華寺,因為它離大覺寺近,而且據聞客房窗口可以看到頂果欽哲仁波切的舍利塔。我的房間雖然又舊又髒,但是景觀真的很好,不但迎面就是舍利塔,遠處還可清晰見到大覺寺的塔頂。坐在床上對著佛塔發呆就覺得很殊勝。   

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This is the Vajra Seat, where Shakyamuni attained enlightenment 2500 years ago. This is one of the 4 holy sites for Buddhists (the other three being Lumbini, Saranath, Kusinagara). The bodhi tree is the 4th generation from the original one!
這裏就是位於大覺寺內的金剛座——釋迦牟尼就是在這裡坐在菩提樹下獲得覺醒而成佛。佛經上說所有的佛都會在金剛座成佛,因此菩提伽耶是佛教最殊勝的四大聖地之一(其它地點就是佛陀誕生的藍毗尼、佛陀初轉法輪的鹿野苑、佛陀涅槃處拘屍陀羅)。這棵菩提樹是原來那棵的第四代,是從斯里蘭卡傳回來的,才30年就如此壯大。想到佛陀曾經坐在這,非常撼人。

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Mahabodhi Temple was said to be built by Ashoka  It was buried in the dirt, which help avoid being destroyed by the Muslim. The main shrine room housing the central statue is especially peaceful. Once you enter, devotion seems to be flowing naturally from the heart. As long as the space allows and you do not block the pathway, it is allowed to sit inside the shrine room for a while. It is so great to see this place for people to pay homage instead of being a museum type of environment. They are always devotees from Shrakavayana, Mahayana or Tibetan Vajrayana prostrating or chanting prayers in front of the statue.
大覺寺是阿育王所建,由於被埋在土裡而沒有被回教徒破壞,後來由英國人根據玄奘的西遊記而找到此處。寺內的釋迦牟尼佛像並不是極大的那種,但是內室氣氛非常安詳寧靜。只要有空位、坐的地方不妨礙人,就可以自己帶個墊子進去做功課。看到各派出家、在家人士皆在此虔誠禮佛,非常隨喜贊歎。

贡嘎雪山的摩托車之旅 / Motorcycle tour at Kunga Mountain

跟着贡嘎寺堪布去贡嘎寺。贡嘎寺有三个,分别在不同的地方。一个是历代贡嘎活佛修行的老贡嘎寺,一个是供有上一世贡嘎活佛肉身的新贡嘎寺,还有一个是现在正在建造的新新贡嘎寺。
I tagged along Kunga Monastery’s khenpo to visit this famous Kagyu monastery. There are actually three Kunga Monasteries in the area: an old one, a new one housing the body of the previous Kunga Rinpoche, and a new-new one they are building now. Khenpo was going back to check the progress of the construction. 
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(子梅山垭口,后面是贡嘎雪山/Tsemi Pass 4650m with Kunga Range in the back)

从康定过去,一路上的民居都极为富丽堂皇,各家都像是皇宫一般。
From Kangding city to Kunga country, all the Tibetan houses are as grand as palaces.
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路上有个圣泉,堪布带着大家去取泉水喝。
There is a sacred spring in the mid way, Khenpo-la led us to taste the spring water.
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中午在九龙-沙德吃飯时,餐厅前的一辆车子上见到萨迦法王一家人去年在澳洲拍的全家福,倍感亲切。
In front of the lunch place out of no where, there parked a car with a photo of HH Sakya Trizin and the family which they took last year in Sydney 🙂 100909 Kung Ga Monastery 012 100909 Kung Ga Monastery 029

到达贡嘎乡时已经下午三点多了,心里盼着能在仅有的两天时间中去老贡嘎寺,不过堪布的弟子说时间已晚,又在下雨,叫我放弃。心里觉得很可惜,但这是自己的缘分,也没办法。师兄在分配新新寺住宿的房间时,堪布把我叫了过去,问我是不是还想去老贡嘎寺,我马上点头如捣蒜,堪布确定我没有什么高原反应后,叫侍者帮我找了台摩托车,就让我去了。
After lunch, with the typical welcoming folks along the way we proceeded fairly slowly. It was over 3pm when we finally arrived at the new-new Kunga Monastery. The organizing Beijingnese told me it is not possible to go to the old monastery in such late hours as it is 3+ hours away, plus it was raining. Fortunately Khenpo still remembered my tight schedule (i.e. leaving tomorrow!) and summoned me to see him before he started the series of meetings. Once he made sure that I do not have any problem with the altitude, he asked his attendant to find me a motorcycle to proceed!
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(第一台车载的是我的行囊,过度重负让我的司机吃足了苦头 / my loaded luggage brought us a lot of trouble along the muddy way)

我欢天喜地地要出发时,同行的尼師听到我能去老贡嘎寺,马上说她也要去。问题是她有七十三高龄,坐3个多小时的摩托,要是有个闪失,我怎么担待的起?我觉得很不妥,堪布的侍者也很紧张,请示了两次。尼師説她昨晚有請寺内的堪布打卦,说卦象非常好,但是我还是很担心,甚至想过趁着老尼师在找她的水壶时一走了之,但是她说了:“我现在不去,这辈子就没有机会去了”。老人家这样说了,那还能怎么拦呢?

我们搭上两个年轻小伙子的车。他们去新贡嘎寺那边加个油,再回家换个衣服,真正出发时都四点半了。
At first, there was just me and a local guy (later I learned that he is the nephew of Khenpo) responsible to bring me to the old monastery. However, the nun from Dorje Drak also insisted that she should go with me so we became a four-people group. After we found another vehicle, loaded everything, refilled the gas and followed the motorcycle riders to their home so that they can put on warmer clothes, it was half pass four already when we actually departed. 
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(载我的摩托车手家里,他母亲在织氆氇,地上晒着蚕豆)

一开始还好。先是翻过一个4650米的子梅山垭口,下到一个小村子的山沟里,路是土路,但是平坦宽敞,小伙子在颠簸的车上,还能放声高歌,唱歌功力十足,我也练就了在摩托上单手照相的技术。
At first it was very enjoyable. We coursed through the mountains at relative flat and wide paths and reached the Tsemi pass at 4650m. Down in the valley after the pass was Tsemi village, then the challenge came with the muddy steep trail leading to our destination.  
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到了村子后面要再次上山时,就不好玩了。

土路就是条羊肠小径,因为之前下雨,非常湿滑,泥泞多的地方车子会打滑,很危险,一加油后轮就打滑,不加油车子就陷在泥巴里,完全凭骑手的经验和双脚在泥巴中辅助才能顺利前进。有大块石头和树根的地方,车子根本上不去,必须一人骑一人推才能前行。没多久就变成两个车手互相帮忙推车上山,我跟尼師在后面步行跟着。
The nun came with me was 73 years old so I was really worried about her. Thanks to prostration exercise, blessings from her Guru, or a good divination result as she claimed to have the day before for this trip, at least she was able to go on and off the motorbike by herself and walked  when needed. Yet the further we went, the more time we had to climbed the mountain on our feet as the trail was so steep and slippery that the motorcycle can not handle the climbing and  the two guys had to helped each other to push up the bike, which means the nun and myself were pretty much on our own feet.  Not to mention that it was raining and getting dark (while my flashlight was in the bag on the motorbike already out of sight). I can only look at the delicious mushrooms along the way and visualize how tasty they would be only if I had time to collect them and bring them to the monastery…
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(因为下雨,满地是蘑菇,看著眼馋,可惜没时间采,否则上老贡嘎就多一道菜吃)

尼師年纪大自然脚程慢些,不过她还能自己走。最让我担心的是那时已经七点半了,天色非常昏暗,眼睛手术的后遗症让我几乎看不清路,手电筒又在车上的包里,而车子早就不知爬到哪里去了。一边想要追上车子拿手电筒,一边又担心尼師跟不上,走一会儿就得停下来等她,确定她来到视线范围内才敢继续走。最后到达时都晚上八点二十,天色全暗,小雨沥沥,寺門深锁。
It was so dark in the woods that at one point of time the old nun got lost until the two bikers sought her out. After the struggle felt like an hour long, we finally got back onto the motorcycles and proceeded in complete darkness with little visibility – the only thing my impaired vision offered was cliff on one side, narrow muddy and slippery trail and non-stop fog/rain. I was constantly pondering which risk is larger – riding the motorcycle or walking by myself in this kind of situation. I failed to reach any conclusion and we finally arrived at the monastery at half past 8.

喊了一会儿门,才来一个喇嘛开门。开门后,拿出一条二十公分宽的木头架在大门台阶上,让摩托车顺着木头跨越数层阶梯骑进寺庙里,像是特技表演。说是这一带有强盗,虽然强盗还没有上庙里来过。
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说真的,我想强盗也不会上庙里来的。一来是藏人的话,信仰虔诚,打劫庙堂的可能性小;二来是这庙里也没什么好偷的——就一个扎巴看守,(平常还有一个,但是另一个下山去了),没电没自来水没手机信号,更没有什么值钱物品。我们就着昏暗的太阳能电灯(这两天下雨,日光微弱,所以灯光也是要亮不亮的),升起炉火,煮了面吃。这会儿还有个西安人在这里做四加行兼禁語闭关,真是很有决心又有好福报的人,能在这种圣地做前行的修持。
The guys yelled for a while until a monk came out to open the gate for us. There is no electricity, no mobile phone signal, no tap water. We were totally unexpected guests for the only monk looking after this place. Yet he was kind as all Tibetans, he made us tea, hot water (for making instant noodles – our guides were super considerate in bring these noodles when they refilled the gas, otherwise we would end up having only tsampa as supper).

我吃的慢,还没吃完晚饭,喇嘛已经带着摩托司机去帮我们准备房间。不一会儿,黑漆漆的寺院传来一阵哐哐哐、狂敲烂打的声音。原来是房间钥匙找不着,他们只好把锁给打坏——救命啊!来叨扰人家已经挺不好意思了(没有通讯方式,所以对看庙的喇嘛来讲,我们是十足的不速之客);来不到一个小时,又把人家的门给砸了……阿弥陀佛,不知这又折损我多少的福德资粮。
While I was still eating, the monk and the 2 guides went preparing rooms/beds already. The monk was so unprepared that he could not even find the keys to the rooms so these three Tibetans worked very hard to demolished the locks of guestrooms by sheer force…what a day!

第二天起来云雾袅袅,四周转转才看清老寺的全貌。
The next day under sun light I finally got a chance to look at the monastery. There are actually many buildings around for this monk to attend. Except for the main shrine/living area we stayed, there are also a separate Avalokitesvara shrine, a Padmasambhava shrine with prayer wheels, a few stupas, and a few independent houses appearing to be perfect retreat places.
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(老贡嘎寺的主殿,也就是我们住的地方在最右边,旁边有观音殿和新修的蓮師殿)

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(这两间屋子看著就觉得超级适合闭关的)

Yet the real retreat place of the old Kunga Monastery is still half day walking distance away in the ice mountains. 
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(老寺前的山沟中有雪水从冰山上川流而下,左边层层山峦过去再走个半天路才到老贡嘎寺的闭关中心,发愿下次要去住几天)

告别接待我们的喇嘛,他送给我两串自己挖的红景天。我跟他说了自己没有高原反应(反而愈上高山,精神愈好),不过他说这个对通脑子很好,硬要我收下,我就拿来补补脑咯,贡嘎神山的药草呢~
The monk gave me some Rhodiola roots he dug/dried which is the most popular anti-altitude sickness cure for Chinese.
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(虽然山上什么都没有,但是喇嘛还是弄了些花草供佛)

最神奇的是我们要离开时,摩托车手刚把行李装上车,我正要一脚跨上时,竟然飘起雪来!一瞬间觉得难以置信,望了几秒钟,雪愈下愈大,雪花落在手上都看得见。大家都高兴的不得了,觉得极为祥瑞,喇嘛说是今年的初雪。看了一眼手表,早晨九点三十一分。
Right before I hopped on the motorcycle to leave the monastery, it started snowing! The monk said it was the first snow for this year. 9:31 am, what an auspicious and memorable moment for this trip. 

下山时,跟昨日雨夜奔走的情形不可同日而语,轻松愉悦。我蹦蹦跳跳,半个小时就下了山。途中还经过一个“不动佛圣地”。下次我想可以自己爬山上去。
Not for long I decided to quit the effort of getting on and off the motorbike due to the various course conditions. The nun continued to ride on the bike, while I happily ran down the trail, only lagging behind them by a few minutes. There was even a “Akshobhya sacred place” on the way. I think I will walk up and down this part of the trail the next time I come. Hopefully I can spend a few days in the retreat place then.
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顺原路再次翻过子梅山,远眺贡嘎雪山。摩托车手心情也很好,还去爬移动的塔台——真是建的有够煞风景的。
Back on the Tsemi Pass again, the 2 guides were also in good mood. They even went climbing the ugly empty mobile tower. 100909 Kung Ga Monastery 113

在山上,尼師采起煙供的树枝,骑手也下去帮忙。我不知道什么能当香烧,帮不上忙,就到处看花。藏地的高山上从四川到印度北部都一样,漫山遍野都是芬芳的植物。
The nun and my guide collected some plants for making incense while I appreciated the highland flowers.
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下山后,再请骑手带我们去新贡嘎寺朝拜上一世贡嘎活佛的肉身——他是上世紀在漢地傳法的西藏喇嘛的先驅,國民黨諸多高官將領都曾皈依其座下,例如李宗仁、陳立夫等。他的传记中有详细记载他圆寂坐化,法体不坏,在文革期间經由信徒曲折保存下来的经过。
Then the riders brought us to the New Kunga Monastery where we paid respect to the flesh body of the previous incarnation of Kunga Rinpoche who was pivotal in introducing Tibetan Buddhism to Chinese in the last century. As innumerable realized beings in Buddhism history and in other religions, his body naturally remains after he passing away and was successfully hid by several witty local Tibetans during the cultural revolution.
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新贡嘎寺后面有一处泉水,据称是由第二世贡嘎活佛开出的泉眼。
As in many other monasteries, there is also a spring/well discovered by the first founder of the monastery believed to be a result of magical power.
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新贡嘎寺旁边有座萨迦寺,两家互相挨着,看守新贡嘎寺的喇嘛带着我们从山上走过去。萨迦寺的看家喇嘛在修法,所以这位贡嘎寺的喇嘛带我们转了这个寺庙,看来两家是很好的邻居。
A Sakya monastery is right next door to the New Kunga Monastery and the Kagyu monk was very kind bringing us over and even showing us around since the only monk in that monastery was in the middle of doing a prayer.
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师兄很仁慈的帮我们弄了台车返回康定,结束我的两日游。开车的司机很好,虽然他送我们过去后,当晚又得赶回贡嘎,但还是不疾不徐地让我沿路照相:山沟里独特的多角型碉楼,还有藏民们在高原山上排出的各式咒语。
So I successfully finished my Kunga Monastery visit within two days and returned to Kangding. The fortress towers in this area is also quite unique.
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经过折多山时,山上白雪纷飞,和昨天的晴朗天气完全不同。山神留了我一会儿,第二天清早还在飘雪,因为能见度低,飞机迟了数个小时才能从成都飞过来,我们在康定机场耗了四个小时。
It was snowing in Zheduo Mountain nearby Kangding. Kangding Airport was heavily affected. The low visibility caused my flight to delay for 4 hours.
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特别感谢堪布,在白忙之中还记得我时间有限的事情。让我在心里准备放弃时,有缘顺利朝拜老贡嘎寺。

***

我们的行为,要做到小乘的行为。
我们的思想,要符合大乘的思想。
我们的见地,要达到金刚乘的见地。

小乘的行为是,少欲知足、谨慎取舍。
大乘的思想是,毫不利己、普度众生。
金刚乘的见地是,悲智双运、轮涅不二。

——太桥旦增堪布

《三根本合修》和幕思唐的莲師寺 / Tsa Sum Dril Drub and Gehkar Monastery

有時候,一个小小的信息就能把很多点给连在一起,然後你就會看見生命裏發生的一些事情是如何相互關聯的。

今天,竹究滇津仁波切說到欽哲旺波傳下的《三根本》成就法的傳承來源,才知道原來桑傑喇嘛首次取出這部伏藏時,是在幕思唐的Ghekar的寺廟,恰恰就是我去年在幕思唐時住了一晚的蓮師廟。真是太有福氣了,也不枉我那時雖然搖搖欲墜地騎著馬,還努力背著法本上山,拿山上最珍貴食物,哈哈,就是一包小小的TWIX巧克力,做了個超精簡的薈供。當初只是想說在蓮師建的廟裏念念,會是莫大的加持,沒想到那竟然是蓮師封藏讓後人第一次取藏的地點啊!今年過年發願文下面附著的還就是在那廟裏供燈的照片,想不到過兩個月就聽到這座小小廟宇跟自己的淵源,是仁波切在我去 Ghekar 之前就種下了。

I surprisingly learned that the 3 Root Sadhana from Khyentse Wangpo (“Tsasum Drildrub") was firstly discovered by Sangye Lama in Mustang, as the 1st terma based on Guru Rinpoche as main deity and discovered by the 1st terton in Nyinma history. Not only that, it was in a Ghekar Monastery where Sangye Lama discovered it. I assumed there can’t be too many places in Mustang named Ghekar so it must be Lo-Ghekar. Lo is the name of the kingdom anyway.  How can you ever think of a terma discovered in Mustang back in the 11th century? And now it is in English and Chinese languages. Amazing! Really feel like prostrating to Thartse Khen Rinpoche today for his getting me a chance to spend quite some time in that precious holy place.

欽哲傳承的《三根本合修》真是太殊勝了,因爲:

- 宗薩欽哲仁波切是法主(這就已經很殊勝了)
- 首次取藏是由桑傑喇嘛在Ghekar廟附近的“馬頭明王之頸”峭壁取出,桑吉喇嘛是蓮師授記的伏藏師,也是寧瑪派的第一位伏藏師
- 是有史以來第一個以蓮師爲本尊的伏藏法
-第一個版本的傳承斷絕後,桑傑喇嘛的最後一個轉世蔣揚欽哲旺波再次取出,是爲再伏藏傳承。

也頂禮塔澤堪仁波切,讓我能進到廟裏晃蕩。

Ghekar要怎麽去,請參見下文的文末部份 / See the end of this text for directions to Lo-Ghekar:
https://bellachao.wordpress.com/2009/09/30/upper-mustang4/

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